peterab

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About peterab

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  • Birthday 02/04/66

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    Melbourne, Australia
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    Trains Town and Modular Buildings

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  1. If your pledge reward was for metal rails that would explain why they didn't contact you; they had completed the molds for the plastic stuff but were still having manufacturing difficulties with metal rails. The story was they were gradually filling plastic orders.
  2. All the official LEGO PF batteries provide 9V which is essentially full speed for the motor. If you don't want remote control as provided by the PF receiver and remote but still want a slower speed, one solution is to provide a lower voltage. Instead of using a 9V battery you could modify a 4x AA battery holder to provide 6V to the motor.
  3. Type E Coupler for LEGO Trains

    I'd be interested in any coupler system that allowed remote uncoupling so realistic yard activities were possible. I doubt I'd want to change my whole fleet over but perhaps all my engines and freight; 20-30 pairs. If they were in the ballpark of the current prices for LEGO couplers that would be fine. BTW I model German trains so if they fit the old buffers as a replacement for the magnet that would suit me best.
  4. Nope, I had a pledge of $270 too and have seen nothing. Mine was all plastic so there was no reason as far as I can see that my pledge couldn't have been completed. I got an email a year ago saying it was ready to ship if I could confirm my shipping address. I did confirm and have heard nothing since.
  5. That was the theory behind the 3 in 1 instructions of the original Super Chief carriages but sales were terrible. They were eventually almost thrown away at steep discounts. Part of the problem is retailers don't like separate train cars as add ons. Parents tend to buy the engine, then wait a year to look for the carriages. By this time the sales for the carriages have been very low, and the retailer has discontinued stocking the carriages.
  6. Increasing Speed

    Deleted already answered question.
  7. New LEGO Train Book "LEGO Eisenbahn"

    I've spent the last couple of weeks reading the English version. It's an excellent book and I can't imagine any LEGO train fan wouldn't find parts of it useful. I've loved building a BR 10 and a BR 80 from Holger's instructions and learnt a lot doing it. I'm currently modifying the BR80 into a BR 81.
  8. Office Christmas Train

    Hi McWaffel, How you use the transformers depends on what you want to achieve. If you want to run two independent trains you will need to isolate sections and connect a transformer in parallel to each section. Since you don’t have two independent loops that probably isn't really very helpful to you, and your siding will already be isolated anyway for storage of your second train. More helpful for what you plan, you could just attach the two transformers in parallel so you have more current available.This is done on large exhibition layouts to overcome voltage drops and to have enough current to run extra motors. Your layout isn't big enough to suffer from noticeable voltage drop especially since it doesn't have grand or straight curves, but heavy wagons, and long trains on normal LEGO curves can draw a lot of current. The LEGO transformer varies from region to region, and the controller comes in a couple of different versions with different maximum current outputs. The worst combinations can struggle with two motors under heavy load, so you might benefit from parallel controllers. As you suspect just connect them up exactly the same in parallel. Test that you've got the polarity right by making sure a motor moves in the same direction when you turn each controller on. In operation you should try and keep both controllers on the same setting so they don't fight each other as it could potentially damage them. Just in case you get conflicting advice here's a picture of my clubs layout from a few years ago to illustrate my experience with multiple controllers;
  9. These are both beautiful trains. It is very generous of you to share the files. Thanks.
  10. Some help for lifted track design

    Hi Jim, If simple cars are all you want, you cant really do better than those designed by LEGO themselves. Most of the instructions will be easy to find on the internet. LEGO themselves has PDFs of instructions for the last 15 years or so in the service section of their site searchable by set number. For older stuff I really like PICSL which was one of the early community efforts to preserve instructions; http://www.peeron.com/cgi-bin/invcgis/scans/?ct=1 To browse through the sets available try a search for train sets on Bricklink; https://www.bricklink.com/catalogList.asp?catType=S&catString=124 Once you have set numbers you might be able to find single carriages from recent sets for a reasonable price on ebay or bricklink. If you want to buy individual pieces bricklink or the LEGO site are probably your best bet. Another way of doing the same sort of search is to start with a search of train sets at brickset; https://brickset.com/ Each set page also has external links to places you might find instructions but they are a little more hit and miss. They work best once you know the area of speciality of the external sites. Hope some of this is helpful to you and your son. Peter
  11. There are a bunch of reasons people don't use Lipos. Mine are as follows. 7.2 V means they limit the top speed of trains (not so bad for freight). Lipos need more care when charging. Their energy density isn't all that great when compared to the LEGO rechargeable battery. Yes they provide a smaller footprint but at the cost of a much smaller running time. I'd only really consider Lipo for a really small engine. I've often thought of making a custom battery pack from 8 AAA or AA rechargeable batteries in two groups of four. 9.6V is well within the tolerances of the PF receiver.
  12. Since I'm in Australia this may or may not be very useful but I use Starmaid boxes. They are currently stocked by Big W, but were stocked at Woolworths supermarkets for a couple of years. I'd imagine there are similar boxes in most markets, just chose an appropriate size for your trains. I really like boxes which only take one layer of trains; it's easy to remove exactly the one you want.
  13. The Super Chief loco sold well but the cars were sold off at about a third of the RRP. They are the reason LEGO doesn't do individual train cars any more. Overall I think the Super Chief is regarded as a failure.
  14. I just use plastic storage boxes for my MOCs. I buy the short ones which fit five long passenger cars or up to 10 shorter freight cars standing upright next to each other. You would probably fit about 10 official LEGO cars in each. If you were really paranoid you could wrap each car in bubble wrap, but I've found most cars without too many greebles are fine without. Mine live in them permanently and the only issue I've had is when they were stored in a hot trailer. Avoid temperatures above about 30 degrees Celsius. For long term storage remember to remove any batteries.
  15. My Bad Experience with ME Models Curves

    As has been pointed out to AFOL train fans before flying off the tracks is a feature not a bug. The trains are designed to fly off because kids like crashes. It makes them better toys.