nnamhcab

Eurobricks Vassals
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Everything posted by nnamhcab

  1. Update after switching differentials, Model still drives, 1st is fine for driving around, crawls okay, and can cover carpet no issue, 2nd is fine for medium resistance driving, thick carpet, short grass, etc. Anything more and it doesn't have the torque. 3rd gear is fast! Drives along at a good lick, will drive with minimal turning on carpet, works best on hardwood, tile or pavement. Can still drive and dump well and has not impacted palatability much IMO. Now I can use these diffs I'm locking axles for an off-roader, better suited to rough terrain than the volvo would be with it's low hanging nose and drive train. The back two diffs were a snap to change the front one required a fair bit of disassembly to get it swapped.
  2. Has anyone swamped the axle differentials for the old style beveled differentials? I'd like to use the locking guns in something else that would be better off road. Would the old diffs stand up to the motor? How would the drive ratio be effected?
  3. A model I've been working for a little while, not much to show yet but pictures soon. 6x6 truck with locking rear diffs and 2 central diffs in the 6x6 drive making for a combination of power delivery choices, similar to the drive train of the mercedes amg 6x6. Using tires from 42054 so its, big near half a meter or so now. Rear live axel suspensions front independet fake v 10 soon to be geared in, possinble addition of 4 speed gearbox and 4 xl motors for drive. with fully rc gear and diff lock control and who knows what else?
  4. Hey Guys I've been working on a 4x4 with plow and a 4 speed box but im having trouble with the power functions and actually moving the vehicle. The 4 speed is geared super low to have torque to plow or rock crawl but it can still barely move in 1st and 2nd. the truck is pretty heavy and when the engines start to get enough torque to move it a set of gears starts to slip. i'm currently using to pf Xl motors to run the drive train both are newer versions. any solutions or ideas would be welcome and pictures soon to come.
  5. Yeah I had to move the drive axle over just one stud and was originally using two 8 tooth gears but they got destroyed by the torque output of the motors so i switched to the 16 and 20 tooth combo
  6. I'll try switching the gear reduction to the output side of the box instead thanks for the suggestion and gearboxes do present a good challenge to build, one with usable speeds, low friction, strength and reliability is really hard but the challenge is fun and if you can get it to work it makes the model a lot more fun I think.
  7. The model uses sheepos sequential four speed box and I'm not sure what the ratios are through that but the other axles are significantly geared down before they enter the box to what i thought was plenty of torque.
  8. The two in the first photo whatever the medium tan bevel is and a 16 tooth connect the gearbox output to the transfer case input. they sit just behind the steering servo on the front axle and can be seen just above the ball joint in the picture of the front axle without its wheels.
  9. The motors are connected through a chain of 16 tooth gears and the grey 24 tooth isn't rubbing, the shift lever is just an in out mechanism to have a rolling chassis or a driven one kind of like a clutch after the reduction gears from the engine. I'm also using a 4 speed sequential box based off of Sheepos latest designs.
  10. fFrst couple photos. The first picture of gears are the two that slip the second is the central diff or transfer case and the third is a top view from the front at the drive motors and plow.
  11. I'm trying to upload the pictures but the file size is to big I think it says I can only use 0.07mb of data to upload them and I can't figure out how to shrink them.
  12. i saw that post but many of my mocs require a slightly smaller limited slip differential and i really like the design just needs some flushing out to make it work properly
  13. i started a moc of a crawler trial type truck with a lsd (limited slip differential) which receives power from the motor through bevel gears that keep skipping and getting destroyed any help or suggestions would be appreciated i used an old style diff next to a clutch gear so the drive axle has some resistance only problem is the 16 tooth bevels won't mesh correctlly.
  14. i cant figure out how to post a photo so heres my moc pages link with a picture http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/377975 http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/377975
  15. excellent i love that moc of yours
  16. how are those instructions coming
  17. superb job anyway you could make some instructions
  18. no that's fine i'm sure i can make do with that thank you for being so helpful
  19. so i've been reading around on the forums trying to find a design plan for a simple lightweight rally-ish car and i decided to just try it myself i just finished tonight and ill have pictures uploaded soon if there are any other topics that meet these criteria post them below thanks
  20. darn thats dissapointing how about some more indepth pictures of the front and rear axles
  21. ok sweet whats the gearing like because im looking to find the perfect ratio for decent speed but still good torques
  22. I've refined this model many times and this is the final version. a simple buggy powered by two medium motors rear wheel drive with diff its pretty fast and does alright off road a simple modification to the design could allow for an xl motor to be put in and geared up. in the model the steering rack sits in the slot at the front of the vehicle and connects to the 1x6 links and the two 1x8 axles connect in the front to form the tube body frame. i also couldn't find the ir reciver it attaches to the pins that are on the roof of the buggy and hangs upside down and inside the frame work. other than that its complete. buggy.lxf
  23. not bad the only problem is that they need to be driven by power functions i'm new to technic and don't have any old rc or buggy motors