Eurobricks Vassals
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About Beej

  • Birthday 09/07/1977

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  1. Don't get me wrong, I love your work coaster, but I'd be cautious about making sweeping statements like that. I bought some bearings from eBay for this project, and after hours of work and tens of dollars spent, I ended up with bogies noticeably worse than the stock offering from Lego.
  2. Beej

    Layout: Train Layout of Patrick

    Wow Patrick, this is a massive plan that you're implementing, the idea looks fantastic! It's sad to see your old layout taken apart, but I'm sure the new one will be bigger and better. It looks like there's a lot of custom stuff you're using for the signalling, can you give us any details on the electronics, interface to the computer, and software in use? I love the picture of the train yard at night, but then you've always been great with LEDs and electronics. Good luck with the new project!
  3. Beej

    12V Conversion of Emerald Night 10194

    Hi David, Welcome to Train Tech! It's actually very easy to do the conversion you have mentioned. Any of the 9V and RC sets can be converted by simply removing the 9V or RC motor and replacing it with a 12V motor. PF trains other than the Emerald Night can also be converted in the same manner as they use a very similar motor to the 12V motor as well. The Emerald Night is slightly harder, and that was the original topic of this thread. As you can see it's certainly not impossible though, it just needs some imagination!
  4. Beej

    Converting BNSF to Power Functions

    That has come up absolutely brilliantly Tearloch, well done!
  5. I find if I lift the rails straight up off the sleepers then I can completely avoid breaking the clips. If the rail doesn't want to come up I move the other end of the rail up and down and this usually frees it. Occasionally even this doesn't free the rail, so I'll pull all other parts of the assembled rail apart and leave the hardest one until the end. By then it normally comes straight off. The only time I break clips is if I'm tired or rushing.
  6. Beej

    LDD MOC/WIP: BR Intercity 125 - 1970s Livery

    Yep, current livery. I might go work on it again if there are people out there eager to see it.
  7. Beej

    LDD MOC/WIP: BR Intercity 125 - 1970s Livery

    Nice Candy XPT there mred! I've got a Countrylink Blue XPT on the way, it's just taking a break while I work on a set of V/Line N carriages.
  8. Beej

    LEGO 12V Train Motors

    So the light didn't come on? It's starting to sound like it's your transformer that is faulty. Don't go opening up your motor for no reason! Have you got a 9V battery you can connect to the contacts on the motor? That will tell you for certain if it is still working. The blocked off port is wired directly to the output of the transformer inside, so outputs about 14V AC. If you have a multimeter this might be a good way to test your transformer out. Don't bother trying to fix the transformer if it is broken, they constantly show up on ebay and wouldn't set you back more than $10US / 10 Euro.
  9. Beej

    Discontinuation Speculation

    Exactly what it was worth yesterday. There are about 1,000 people out there that stocked up on ENs, so you aren't alone, and with lots of independent retailers still with stock, there's no reason for the price to go up overnight.
  10. Beej

    7938 Passenger Train Help

    I think Daedalus has it. The magnets don't always line up properly, and sometimes the connection can be quite weak. You have to rotate one carriage relative to the other, almost like unscrewing the lid on a bottle. This gives the magnets a chance to line up and you'll notice the link is much stronger after you've done this. Regarding the noise, the larger of the two bogies on the last car does make a fair bit of noise. I'm planning on rebuilding it using the regular RC/PF train wheels.
  11. Beej

    Looking for an Old Yellow Train

    Sounds like the 162?
  12. That's a brilliant idea LT12V, 4 signals in such a compact device, and probably about 100 times cheaper than using 7860 sets as well! Just thinking out loud, it would be very easy to design a brick built dwarf signal for sidings (blind tracks) and run them from a circuit like yours, and leave the expensive 7860 signals for the mainline. It's beautiful...
  13. Do not use sandpaper to clean the motor contacts or the track! The system was not designed to have such a harsh abrasive run over it every time the electrical contact between the two drops slightly. There are many other options that work just as well and are far less abrasive - cotton wool and methylated spirits is my personal choice.
  14. The circuit is based on this design but has had the features I don't use removed and modified to use reed switches instead of light sensors. You place the reed sensors in the middle of the tracks and the magnets on the trains activate them. You need an isolated section of track, but this is possible on both 12V and 9V systems. Unfortunately RC and PF need something more complex, but I have design ideas there too, along the lines of RFID sensors and microcontrollers.
  15. Welcome to the forum Retro! I use some electronics to ensure the number of trains I can run on my layouts isn't limited to the number of loops they have. You can see it at work in the video below... Any trains not on the layout are wrapped in cloth or newspaper and stored in boxes. I hope this helps!