Junpei

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Everything posted by Junpei

  1. Junpei
    I checked the BL inventory, and there is only a manual pump, so I guess it's not the compressor.
  2. Junpei
    What kind of plastic are those arches on the front made of? Maybe it's just the picture, but they kinda actually look like M*** B*****. Awesome moc though, the curves and detail are perfect!
  3. Junpei
    Man, I wish I had the money for all those parts... Just wondering, why are there 8868 wheels in the mlcad close-up pictures? Also, what does the buggymotor drive?
  4. Junpei
    Cool moc. Could you show us some pictures of the half axles separately? Guess that might be difficult and kind of a pain though... Also did you make any changes to the body?
  5. Junpei
    Yes that is kind of sad, I was hoping for some new motors... Well I hope the EV3 m-motor isn't just an l-motor. Edit: Hey wait! It says on the lego education that the servo has 20 N/cm of torque and spins at 160 RPM at 9v. That's 23 RPM faster and 3.3 N/cm more torque! The m-motor is just an l-motor tho.. Double edit: The new EV3 m-motor is slightly slower than the l-motor with just a bit more torque.
  6. Junpei
    Lego would have to find a way to avoid twisting the axles, but I agree I think it would make a good set.
  7. Junpei
    Great moc! I was wondering why is the 3rd axle 94.4 x 44R on PP rims?
  8. Junpei
    Since I don't buy sets and haven't made a BL order, I'm sorry to say I don't really know much about this piece. Does it really have a stop ring or is it just the cylindrical part? Sorry for the late edit Mahj, thanks for editing your comment.
  9. Junpei
    I think you should just try both gearboxes to see how much torque they can each handle and then use the better one for the final model. You will need a freewheeling mechanism for the smooth linear gearbox, right?
  10. Junpei
    I mean like in , I just thought it might because the shock absorber is mounted on a ball joint and has a fixed attachment on the portal axle.
  11. Junpei
    Yes those rubber tracks are awesome, too bad I don't really have many. :( I wish lego would make larger tracks with larger wheels for them for things like Sariel's tanks or just make rubber track inserts.
  12. Junpei
    Is that Machpherson strut suspension just upside down? Or does that 6l link count as suspension arm? Also does it have camber or caster and can it be steered by the shock absorber? Sorry for the late reply.
  13. Junpei
    I don't know if he's going to make a video, you could always just see his mini 9398, I guess this one does have the winch function and smoother steering though.
  14. Junpei
    One suggestion I would make is to not buy all the sets unless you want all the extra parts, you can just use bricklink for the motors and stuff you want. Also you might as well use an m-motor because you could always just press the button for it quickly for single fire and then hold it down for rapid fire. Also you probably shouldn't use knob gears for the drive, bevel gears are much smoother and can also give some gear reduction so it can have more torque. Edit: Hey I forgot the release date for the l-motor and servo motor on s@h is in only 23 minutes! I'll check on it very soon.
  15. Junpei
    I think lego should just stop at the 2600-2700 and should just leave the insane huge builds to MOC'ers that will pay the high prices. I think since technic is less popular than Star Wars and other more popular themes, anything over $200 just wouldn't be profitable.
  16. Junpei
    I think he means that the turntables pop apart much less easily than 42000 hubs, where the 3-pin thingy pops out a lot.
  17. Junpei
    I don't think you do, I think it was made to remove the friction ridges. Maybe for a large u-joint?
  18. Junpei
    Amazing work cramming all the functions into such a small model! May I ask what the yellow 1x3 brick is for?
  19. Junpei
    Nope, they're the same. You're right though, they do look bigger in the pics. Sorry for the OT, but does 8069 usually come with 6 pinhole wheels? I've seen the 3-pinhole ones in a review but mine came with the newer ones.
  20. Junpei
    Yeah I guess you're right. I think 4 studs long would be possible, considering the motor is 2.5 stud and the axle hole has to be 1 stud, that would leave 0.5 stud left in the middle for gear reduction.
  21. Junpei
    Yes the micromotor can easily be used with technic especially because of the fact that it is 2 1/3 bricks high for easy mounting on technic bricks, but I think the usefulness of the xs motor vs the micromotor depends on the dimensions you're working with. e.g. the micromotor is only 3 studs long with the pulley but is also 5 studs tall if there are 1x2 technic bricks on the top and bottom. However with the XS motor it is completely the opposite, 5 studs long and 3 studs tall (or wide). But its shape is less blocky and more technic-oriented, plus having the advantage of fitting in a linear actuator holder, so I think depending on your situation it might be a real improvement.
  22. Junpei
    I guess I should've mentioned that there is enough space to gear it down much like the harmonic drive in the micromotor, and since it is only 1,5 studs long there might be room for two harmonic drives. That might be painfully slow though.
  23. Junpei
    Here is a motor I found that is perfect for the XS motor: With a 16 tooth gear, for scale: The motor I think could fit perfectly into the housing shown in the pictures and has the right shape. As for the specs, I don't know, I tore it out of an RC car so I can't identify it. However, I have confirmed that it has about the same torque and speed as an m-motor geared up about 20:1.
  24. Junpei
    I thought I should be prepared in case that I need one of weavil's custom u-joints, so I was trying to think of a way to take apart the u-joints without damaging them in any way. For the newer 3l joints, I put 5l axles in both ends, and a technic rotor blade on one side and a 20t DB gear on the other. I held the rotor blade firmly so it would not move and then twisted the 20t gear on the other axle, and it came apart before any of the parts got warped or destroyed. However, when I tried it on the 4l u-joint, it put up enough resistance that I permanently twisted the axle and even worse, I got this: And it was light bluish grey too... That's the "fixed up version", I had to search around for half of the axle connector that flew off and just put and axle in and rubber banded it together. So I was just wondering if anyone knows a safe way to take apart 4l u-joints without developing cracks in them.
  25. Junpei
    I am referring to the black axle and pin connector perpendicular double split (the black ones) on the left and right side on top of the portal axles. Sorry I am really late on that, I didn't notice the post date.