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About brickosouch

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  1. brickosouch

    RC dog

    Here are the pictures, camera does not handle well black, I did what I could :
  2. brickosouch

    RC dog

    Ok, thanks. I'll make some better pictures, but no instructions. The model is not too complex so pictures should be enough.
  3. brickosouch

    RC dog

    Hi a small MOC of a RC dog. The dog can say yes, no, walk, go backward or fall. Aimed for children fun. I like to move it move it move it : The picture of a dog found a long time ago on the net that inspired me :
  4. Here is a dump of the source files : barre3_roulement_8.stl barre8_shapeways.stl barre_L_roulement.stl I used freecad to make this 3d object.
  5. Yes, I didn't think to tune the suspension. I'll try it if I do another model one day. I will post the 3d source file here soon.
  6. Thanks for the help. I did check that "offer for sale to others" and "display to the public" and it did not show up in the public side of the shop. I'll see in PM with sammy.
  7. Hi, again. I have not a lots of time, that why I took so long to reply. Yes this Le mans car was great to ride! I hope I'll have some time soon to make some other model like this one! I checked at my lego boxes (that are covered with dust..) and I have no ball bearing lift arm to sell anymore. But I just open my shapeways model if you want. Here : . For now there is no object shown in this shapeway shop. I have to find how to make shapeways object accessible to everyone. Arr, I think I can't make the model accessible for everyone if I do not print it first for myself. Or I can give you the 3d source file and you print it by yourself with shapeways? Or you wait that I start playing with lego again (I will have perhaps time in 5 months or so).
  8. Yep, don't know too. There are tons of motor for rc model that you can use, 540 size for 1/10, 380 size for 1/18. But I don't know which one is the best. Don't go too big, the lego will not support it. The atomic stock stress already the gears and axles almost at the limit.
  9. What I know : it is different from the mini-z one. Also, it can be great to have a metal gear as I think that when there is a metal against a plastic gear it is the metal gear that worn out. But why you don't want to take the gear of the original motor? Except for simplicity. Here is a picture of inside the 5292 The motor has the same shape of a 130 size. From the picture, if someone know the width of the plastic cover (the width just above the thermistor of this picture we can roughly deduce the width of the motor and be more sure that it's a 130. If it is a 130, what is good with the 5292 it's that the motor has more room to cool down. The downside is the 5292 is more expensive and bigger than the pf-m. From my point of view it does not worth it. The pitch should be deductible from the height of the gear and the number of tooth. I am lazy to do that :-).
  10. I don't understand well the question :-). From what I tested, the atomic stock is great for pf-M and perhaps pf-L. I can't say for other as I didn't test it.
  11. In the previous post I posted some motor specs : The atomic stock has when stalled (they don't precise tension in the specs, I assume 6v (mini-z run with 4*AAA accu ~ 5.2V)). With the inner total reduction of the PF-M (1:24), at the output of the PF-M you should have With a battery lipo 7.4v, you will have more, sthg like In comparison the genuine PF-M has 11 @9v.
  12. Actually you don't care DC or AC, cause you don't use the DC controller of lego. You have to buy another one. So if the modified motor is AC, buy an AC controller. Yeah, I did not saw that, perhaps because of the price and I don't have the proper controller. But that is an interesting way for sure. They must heat less. Though I did not search a lot, the price seems to be twice more. Here is quite good comparison of different motors (in french) . The team orion is not the only one. But be careful, some motor shown there are for "bigger" mini-z (the round one) : the size of these motors are bigger than the 130 size. Actually for more power, I was thinking to stop using the pf-M. As I don't know if the internal gears will handle that. Now that I have a CNC mill I would have liked to make a specific mount for 380 size motor or sthg like that, to have sthg more powerful and not more expensive. But before thinking to have more power than the atomic, you must think to change some part of lego : u-joint, ball bearing at least for the tyre mount... This two things are important to make a chassis that can handle the power. That is the next step I am thinking with the CNC. But I don't have the time now for that.
  13. From this page, the rc motor 5292 takes 3.2A @ 9V when stalled (the amp will increase if the tension increase e.g. @12v). The ebay motor takes 2,9A at 12v when stalled. If the efficienty is the same (should be, like the lego one, the ebay motor seems of "low" quality), the original rc motor has more power. This is actually a "standard" motor size : 130. Search "motor 130 size..." From the research I done, the atomic stock is best power/efficiency/heat/price/quality ratio I found. I already tested the more powerful 130-size of pololu site, it's less powerful than the atomic, much more cheaper, but it heats a lot more : this parameter is really important! From this page, the PF-L motor seems to be of 130 size. Must be properly checked though. You mean gear it down internally or externally with lego gears? I do not gear it down internally, I gear it up externally, the atomic motor has so much torque :-) It's better to gear it up in order to put less torque on the lego axle. Yeah, that powerful :-) Your chassis handle hardly the power of the rc motors.
  14. More precise specs on mini-z motors : http://rodolphe.souc...motor_specs.jpg How to disassemble the pf-m without breaking everything, especially the gear. To open the case : unscrew the screw, with a cutter I cut a bit the two bit of dark grey plastic at the top that hold the light grey plastic. Pull the light grey part. The motor comes naturally of the case. Cut the wire. Don't let the plastics gear fell all over your room. Pull the bronze gear (tricky part). Usually it destroy the original lego motor as the motor case metal is too soft (I don't care). Pull really gently with the knives. As soon as there is enough room made with the knives, in order to avoid damage to the gear, I put this small metal part that has a U shape between the gear and the pliers : Then you make hole as you like on the case. weld BEC female wire on the motor. And you reassemble everything The result : This is another way to pull the gear without braking the motor (as it was not a lego one). The screw at both side of the motor hold the shaft and the motor case.
  15. Finally yes. I hope people will show me their project using this or how they enhance it (like in open source software). I have still some information to dump here. Then I will make a link from youtube to this topic. Just type the motor model in google or duckduckgo and pick the nearest and cheapest. Ex : - for the atomic standard : http://www.atomicmod...o-ar-076-bb.htm (not cheap but there is a link to the specs sheet in the page http://www.egrracing..._Spec_Sheet.pdf ) - the atomic stock seems not distributed anymore. Now there is stock-v, stock plus, ... don't know how they are. In france I would perhaps go to this one (stock-v) : .