Jonas

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by Jonas

  1. Moreover, he omitted a backdoor in the pump to empty it after a show is finished -:) It is just a joke. This is a perfect module, with several nice technical tricks. And the instructions are very professional.
  2. I fully agree. For me, purchasing his instructions is an appropriate way of supporting his highly inspiring works. I also like that he thinks on those with different skills. For those who want to go the reverse engineering path, there is usually a lot of details in the videos, for the others, there are carefully made BI.
  3. Jonas

    GBC General Discussion

    Hi, Dunes. In your version of the Sun, you use two 24t gears (instead of 4 car wheels used by PG52) to bear the rotating part. Is it these two gears only that keep the whole rotating part in place or do you have another support on the rear side (which is not shown in the video)? If only the 2 gears, is it stable enough?
  4. Jonas

    [GBC] Akiyuki Ball Factory

    Yes. Those round tiles are used to eliminate any potential friction of rotating parts.
  5. Jonas

    Lego GBC Cardan Gear Module

    It is definitely your best module so far. I like it and think about building it. Allow me just one recommendation. Your modules are wonderful and it is just pity that you do not use the standard GBC balls. Yours are a bit larger and there is always a question whether your modules would work with the standard ones. Well, they were rather expensive on Bricklink in the past, but recently you can buy them directly from Lego.com https://www.lego.com/en-us/service/replacementparts/sale id 72824 Currently the price is USD 0.63, You can order how many you need and the shipping cost is low.
  6. Jonas

    [GBC] Akiyuki Ball Factory

    I also did a careful check and testing for each individual mechanisms during the build. But you know, if you put together 15 or so mechanisms that run smoothly, the result may be not that smooth. Also, the reliability of the whole factory dramatically decreases when you approach the final state: a) without baskets - I can run it for hours without any supervision b) with baskets but without balls - OK, it will run rather long before a critical failure c) with the balls - so far, my MTBF (Mean Time Between Failures) value is about 1 minute, not more.
  7. Jonas

    [GBC] Akiyuki Ball Factory

    Thank you guys for your comments and advice. I tried to follow them. I disconnected all the moving parts and checked each for smooth function. Most run really smoothly. The biggest relief for the motor occurs when I disconnect the whole left section (that described in Part 1 of BI). From that section, it is the ball-picker moving mechanism that requires most power at certain moments, mainly when its lever passes its vertical position. If you run it by hand the strain seems acceptable but when it is summed with that of the other mechanisms, the demand becomes critical. I tried to modify the positions and sizes of the levers that transfer the rotational movement to the picker but with no evident success. It looks like my machine is somehow enchanted. By the way, during the tuning I faced many of the fails infamously known from the previous version, namely broken chains, jams at the entry point to the spiral lift, basket jams on the wheel, etc. A sort of deja vu after 3 years. If you did not face them, Berhil, you are a lucky man. But the good thing is that the new elevated constructions allows for easier repair works. Also, I appreciate very much the option of instant switching between the manual and motor drive. It makes tuning really efficient. I will give it some rest for now and will return with fresh mind later. I may test also an XL motor instead of the L one.
  8. Jonas

    [GBC] Akiyuki Ball Factory

    Good point, Ankoku. I just cleaned all the sliding axles by soaped water, but no improvement. Rechecking all the rotating points will be more laborous as it means disconnecting all the modules and re-synchronize them after that.
  9. Jonas

    [GBC] Akiyuki Ball Factory

    Thank you, Berthil, for your advice. Although I think, I have tried most of your hints during the tuning. The run is still too irregular with several movement 'hesitations' as you call it. I have made another video, this time with more detail and at varying speed. If you find time, please have your expert look at it and maybe you discover something. I have made some minor modifications but I dont think they are critical. You may notice I changed the shape of the warped rod that controls the basket unloader. What is a still puzzle for me, how did you manage to clear the rolling path towards the out-box. In my video I show that there is so little space under the second chain (which is hanging down, moreover).
  10. Jonas

    [GBC] Akiyuki Ball Factory

    The build is complete. I spent almost all week-end to make it run. Unfortunately, the run is not smooth, yet. When driven manually, I can feel significant resistance at some phases. I even had to replace the clutch gear by a standard one. I tried to locate the source by switching off individual modules and it is evident that the biggest sources of resistance in my build are all the lever-driven mechanisms (bob, ball picker, basket shifter). I checked the sliding axles (by Berthil's axle tester), optimized the position of the pivots, etc. but there is almost no improvement. When driven by motor, one can hear that it roars irregularly. I must take a break, now and try it later.
  11. Jonas

    [GBC] Akiyuki Ball Factory

    Thank you, Berthil. Now, it is clear. When building the wheel stand, I did a minor modification (because I was missing one specific element) and this caused the above mentioned troubles. I apologize for a false alarm.
  12. Jonas

    [GBC] Akiyuki Ball Factory

    Berthil, you are superfast and your instructions are excellent. You have been able to do in one person what large designer teams in TLG do in a year. Allow me another small comment. When you make an update of part 2, look at black 6L axle added in step 167 (the axle to rotate the black lever). This axle passes only through holes and hence it is not fixed in its position. I myself fixed it in step 168 by adding a bush (e.g. 3713) in between black Axle and Pin Connector Angled #1 (32013) and black Pin Connector Plate with One Hole (32529). And a question to the large basket wheel. Its stand (4 vertical 13L liftarms) seems to me like 'hovering' just one brick high above the tiles laid on top of a 2x6 brick. Yes, it is fixed in place by the 4 red axles but one needs to move the stand back and forth in order to align the holes in the stand and the platform. I added another 2x6 brick on top of the first one and now the stand sits on the tiles and the holes are aligned perfectly. And before I end this post, I add one personal (lame) experience. I spent almost one hour to find out why the large wheel - when added to the platform - did not fit with the rest of the system. I searched for mistakes here and there, just to realize (and remember forever) that the wheel stand is NOT symetrical and that it must be placed in one specific direction. If you add such a notice to the BI, it may help some other builders.
  13. Jonas

    [GBC] Akiyuki Ball Factory

    Hi Berthil. I am progressing slowly but I have almost completed the raw portion of the build. The next portion will be tuning. What is not clear to me, is the loop-back exit. If you look at the picture, the 2 hoses are positioned too far from the left ramp exit and there is no barier that would direct the rolling balls to the path made by the hoses. (The other exit seems to be OK.) In your video, where you show the loop-back, there is a brick built barier that seems to work well.
  14. Jonas

    [GBC] Akiyuki Ball Factory

    Perfect. What I mean is the parallel (also called in-line) vs. perpendicular alignment of two u-joints on a common axle. The former is correct, the latter causes unwanted wobbling. There was a thread about it.
  15. Jonas

    [GBC] Akiyuki Ball Factory

    Berthil, I hope you do not mind my frequent comments. If yes, just stop me. Most of us who were building the previous version remember the problem of paired u-joints. In the instructions, you have two places where u-joints appear in pairs. It should be nice if you show the correct pairing in a detailed picture. It seems to me that the pairing depicted in step 13 is not the correct one. That in step 319 is OK. Anyway, a detailed picture (or a text notice) should help a builder.
  16. Jonas

    [GBC] Akiyuki Ball Factory

    My question was .... can they be distinguished in the instructions? 
  17. Jonas

    [GBC] Akiyuki Ball Factory

    Well done. It may help some users to prevent a frequent source of frustration. One more question. In the inventory there are 2 types of technic 1x2 brick with axlehole 32064a and b. Are both needed and can they be distinguished in the instructions? The same question applies also to two types of 8t gears (3647 and 10928). I remember why they were needed in the older version, but now? Sorry for my questions and comments. But I am sure that your excellent instructions will be followed by many builders and some may be without previous experience.
  18. Jonas

    [GBC] Akiyuki Ball Factory

    I am still in earlier steps (mainly because of waiting for material), but I want to ask Berthil. Do you have a safety counter-rotation lock (e.g. a ratchet) in the system to prevent wrong direction of the drive (manual or electric)? I know that you have a white clutch gear there but Akiyuki always uses both the clutch and ratchet safety mechanisms together. Maybe, I just have not noticed in your instructions.
  19. Jonas

    [GBC] Akiyuki Ball Factory

    Berthil, you have done a wonderful job. Your design and many of the clever solutions you used are amazing. I follow your instructions and build rather slowly in order to enjoy every, every step. I am still amazed how rigid the construction is. I can take it, turn it even upside down and nothing falls out. Thank you so much for your work!
  20. Jonas

    [GBC] Akiyuki Ball Factory

    I hope, that Berthil will not mind if I add a brief comment to the history of the ball factory. (Also, let us fill somehow the waiting time before Berthil completes his highly anticipated instructions. ) This thread is about version 3, and in the first post, there are links to videos of version 1 and 2. What was before that? Was there any version 0 or even -1? In one of his rare interviews, Akiyuki said that his ball factory designed and published in 2011 had been inspired by previous work of superbird28. I did some research on internet and found videos on Youtube that show the pioneering work of this author (see his channel.) His videos are from 2007-2009, i.e . from times when Youtube had its strict limits, videomaking was not that easy as today and Lego technic component inventory was much smaller than we have recently. Yet, even today, these ancient videos are fascinating and inspiring. You can find many clever techniques and concepts that were later used (and improved) by Akiyuki. If you want to see at least one of superbird28's creations, watch this. It would be nice if someone tries to recreate one of his old models to build a memorial of his pioneering work.
  21. Jonas

    [GBC] Akiyuki Ball Factory

    Yes, I am aware of the weak point of the axle-built push rods (although Akiyuki uses them frequently, for horizontal rods). I will investigate the idea of using the above mentioned links and I will report my experience.
  22. Jonas

    [GBC] Akiyuki Ball Factory

    I simply could not resist and started to build according to your instructions. I must say that your new version is really compact and rigid. Thanks to the well designed combination of classic studded (and tough) beams with the studless ones used for bracketing, the construction is strong and robust as never before. The input bin is also very rigid, now. I found only a few places where I would propose minor changes: - in step 8, I added a 1x2 brick and a 2x2 plate under the right end of the 2x8 technic plate (otherwise this end of the plate would levitate in the air), - in step 37, the blue 3L pin should be removed and placed later in step 39 - in the inventory, you have 3 ribbon hoses (those used in the spiral lift), I think there should be 4. I have also spent much time to study your technically perfect HD pictures that depict the remaining parts of the factory and I must say that you have done a really great job. The transformation of version 2 into version 3 needed a lot of creative thinking. One detail I am thinking of is, whether it would be possible to replace the two long vertical black beams (on the rear side of the factory) that control the movement of the ball picker mechanism by something more subtle, ideally by long axles with connectors, or by a link of this type It would make the whole design more consistently looking, as all the major push-pull rods would be made in the same style. Edit: I was writing my comments before you published the new version of instructions.
  23. Jonas

    [GBC] Akiyuki Ball Factory

    I checked the component list provided by Berthil and it seems to me that about a half of the components can be reused from the v2 ball factory. The solution of the output (and loop-back) track with the hoses seems to be elegant - but rather expensive. I have never used hoses before and I have none at home.I wonder if there is any cheaper replacement.
  24. Jonas

    Bricklink crowd project castle

    As I wrote earlier in this thread, I built my own version of the wonderful Lowenstein castle. Its author, Raziel Regulus, has my deep respect. I spent more then 1 month to discover - from his pictures - most of his building techniques and tricks. Although, sometimes I decided to go my own way. Here is a picture of the final model. More pictures can be found in my Brickshelf gallery.
  25. Jonas

    [GBC] Akiyuki Ball Factory

    Berthil, you have done an amazing job! I remember building my own Ball factory 3 years ago. I was so fascinated by this Akiyuki's masterpiece that I had to build it in order to learn how it worked. By building it, for me it was like passing practical lessons in mechanical engineering. (My background is IT, which is much different.) I felt so happy when I completed it. However, frustration came later when I realized that the machine would never work reliably. So I really keep my fingers crossed for your modified version. If it is reliable, I may consider to rebuild it once again, even though I would have to buy many components again, since I have reused them already in other models. Some questions: 1) Is your version modular, so that it can be easily disassembled and transported? If yes, do you plan to introduce some visual clues to allow for fast resychronisation after the assembly? 2) I remember that one of the most critical parts in the original design was the 'synchro tower' where two chain links controlled the movement of basket mover. Whenever one of the chains broke (and it happened rather frequently), it was horrible work to fix it and resychronise all the modules. Is your mod more robust to this type of fail? I appreciate your plan to make the instructions. I can imagine that it will be a pretty tough task. I am looking forward to your next steps.