jrathfon

Eurobricks Citizen
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About jrathfon

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    trains

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Nashville, TN
  • Interests
    Trains! TRAINS! TRAINS!!!!!

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  • Country
    USofA

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  1. jrathfon

    Narrow Guage Track Help

    My binding issue was more on the powered two axle bogies (shortest axle separation) coming from my boxcar (to conceal PF battery), but had issue with the lego/IJ narrow curves pushing twin axle bogies (as opposed to pulling) and just a bit of increased drag causing the powered bogies to slip. Also issues with running a Blind-Driver-Driver set of standard train wheels on a 4-6-0 loco, again pushing from behind with a powered box-car.
  2. jrathfon

    Narrow Guage Track Help

    A word on the curve narrow gauge lego track or aftermarket productions. If you make any two axle bogies (for coaches, etc.) you will have clearance/binding issues on the tight (R24?) lego track with the standard lego train wheels (PF or otherwise). Some people have mismatched the old outer individual grey curved rails from the 4.5/12 V era for larger radius narrow gauge. It would be amazing if a 3D printing outfit made a normal radius narrow gauge curve track element!
  3. jrathfon

    Flying Scotsman on BBC!

    Good catch! Didn't see the zoomed in pic, the brick built track looked like metal track at first. Truly massive!
  4. jrathfon

    Flying Scotsman on BBC!

    Didn't see this already posted, but a Lego Flying Scotsman in G-gauge made the BBC! https://www.bbc.com/news/av/uk-england-sussex-44980577/chichester-museum-reveals-british-history-with-lego Do we know the creator?
  5. jrathfon

    (Work in Progress) EMD F7A in 8-Wide

    Love it!! It's funny how the nose has to be built different in each livery due to brick availability! More dark blue curved bricks have come out since I built my L&N E7's. I also drew on Nathaniel's design, and Shupp even helped me with the window glass bit. We should have a gather of the E/F 7/8's in all their various livery's! 8 wide of course. I might rework mine with a different nose and also rescale it. This was my first big MOC so I believe I actually scaled to 1/40. I might shrink them a bit and go with 1/48. Cheers! My L&N E7's:
  6. Awesome coaster! Do you have a link to the ball bearings supplier?
  7. jrathfon

    [Question] narrow gauge wheel spacing

    Look up the lego narrow gauge puffing billy here and on flickr. That's a 4 gauge railway using old 12V rails, you have to fudge spacing and use odd 1x2 panels, etc. to correct for off curvature of each rail.
  8. jrathfon

    Getting an Emerald Night in 2017

    As mike_ribeiro just pointed out, if you can't find the train wheels, Big Ben Bricks makes some great after market wheels that would work quite well on an EN replica. http://www.bigbenbricks.com/index.html
  9. jrathfon

    Custom 3d printed tracks in action

    These are amazing!!! Couple questions: 1. What is the shipping situation to the US, I saw free shipping over 100Euro, what about smaller orders? 2. I think you nailed it with the inside curve R40 pieces, perfect! 3. I would love to see inside studs for ballasting on the straights and cross track. I like the minimal sleepers, as it allows for flexible ballasting, but not having top studs is an issue for me. I ballast everything. 4. I think the turnout is spot on, with one caveat. Much like the lego R40 switch, it limits you to parallel track arrangements. Would it be possible to say do a "half" turn, or "stubby" switch and have two half curves that allow either parallel sidings or true turn-outs? Also, as I mentioned in the other thread and decent two axle bogie or F-B-F wheel arrangement rubs hard on R24. It would be awesome to get the wider radius system going, e.g. R30 or R36 switches/turn-outs. My few cents, awesome job on the concepts!
  10. jrathfon

    Narrow gauge straights and cross track

    As I mentioned earlier, R24 is very tight. even two minimally spaced "RC train wheels" (the normal lego motor drivers with a technic axle hole in the center) have A LOT of friction in R24. A switch would be the same or worse. If you want to make single axle trucks it would work, but anything else rubs (two axle bogies, steam drivers, etc, etc.). So my vote, in terms of modelling in narrow gauge, would be a large radius as the "base" radius, the one we choose for switches. Let's get an admin to create a poll re: R24, 36, 48 vs. R30, 42, 54. Also, we don't necessarily need to use the "magic radii" for the switch as coaster mentions. You can use a compound curve, or "adapter straight" to get the off radius switch to align to the stud grid, on say an R36 switch.
  11. jrathfon

    Narrow gauge straights and cross track

    Welp. Went to go make a poll, but you must have 500 posts to create one... so none of us in the thread can create one. I believe it should be called something like "Narrow Gauge System" and have three options: R24, R36, R48, etc; R30, R42, R54, etc; or "other" as write in votes. Thoughts?
  12. jrathfon

    Narrow gauge straights and cross track

    That, and you can't simply use the same track for "4-width and 6-width tracks", the radii is different for different spacings. Lego already creates loose straights if you would like to make a "4-width" stub switch. I believe we are all mostly in agreement here with 6 stud gaps between sleepers. Sorry, I mis-stated some studs a few posts back. I believe 6 stud gaps would mesh well with the visual of 8 stud gaps on standard gauge. With ballast and overhang, I believe 4 stud gap would be too small. A lot of narrow gauge in the US was/is fairly large engines, and would be modeled 6-wide on "4-wide" gauge, with rods and hand rails overhanging (so ~7 studs). Check out these 2-8-2 beasts: So the main options are: R24, R36, R48, etc: Advantage: fits with Lego IJ R24 narrow gauge track, Disadvantage: R24 useless for Med drivers F-B-F, and bogies with spaced wheels. No "magic radii" switch. OR R30, R42, R54, etc: Adv: R30, R78 magic radii switch, Dis: does not mesh with IJ R24, though R30, and R54 fit inside/outside R40 standard gauge. R30 switch is tight.
  13. jrathfon

    Narrow gauge straights and cross track

    Hey Coaster, So lets work to nail down a system so we can start to print some narrow gauge track!! The first question is radius (as we've been discussing). A few points we discussed and agreed on: 1. 12 stud intervals for narrow gauge track, this leaves the 8 stud gap between rails as with standard gauge. 2. Narrow gauge straights are covered with Lego stock single piece rail. The adapter piece (already drawn up), will help going back and forth between IJ R24 and straight rail. A one piece narrow gauge straight with Lego track connectors is nice, but not completely necessary. (I can't see this competing on price-point) The BIG question with a few caveats: 1. Rail spacing: IJ R24, R36, R48, R60, etc. to keep IJ R24 relevant? (though R24 is pretty useless in scale) OR R30, R42, R54, R66, etc. to use the "magic" R30 ideal switch? (R30 is still a small radius for "scale") 2. Do we make narrow gauge mesh with R40 standard? I imagine half of users will likely run narrow gauge along-side of standard gauge, but is that important enough for a "narrow gauge system"? Because IJ is 6 studs wide, and R40 standard is 8 studs wide, the "ideal" 8 stud gap leaves a 15 stud spacing, making no choice of "narrow gauge system" ideal to mesh with standard gauge. 3. Switches: We should pick a "standard" radius for the first switch solution (much like how R40 switches are standard). If we are not picking the R30 spacing, what will this be? We will have to use a small adapter track to do cross-overs vs. turn-outs. (I would argue an R30 switch is too small a radius, F-B-F already binds in R24) Nailing down our curve radii will allow for the "complete" straight, curve, switch narrow gauge system and get us up and running. Should we create a poll?
  14. jrathfon

    Louisville & Nashville EMD E7 790 & 791 MOC

    Thank you Shupp!! That means a lot, as you set the mark on the E7 sets! Thank you for the help a few years ago! You definitely deserve a lot of the credit on this build. There were some tweaks for dark blue, but you solved many of the hurdles before me! Using the scale spec diagram up above was also super useful in terms of proportions, windows and vent layouts. If anybody is ever trying to do a scale build I highly recommend finding the engineering diagram! I'll take some better pictures when both units are decaled (water-slided them a few days ago, just have striping left), with better lighting to highlight the tanks and trucks as well.