Eurobricks Vassals
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Everything posted by madjelly

  1. Hey everyone. Decided to start my first MOC. Can't learn to swim if you don't get into water . Only I feel like I am jumping into a shark tank. I always liked dually pickup trucks with crew cabs. Regular ones have two axles. Some people convert them into three axle 6x6 beasts. Why? Cuz Amurica! For my build I decided to go with 43.2 wheels and 64.2 tires. Thanks to Sariel's extremely handy scale tool, I was able to use tires to create scaled measurements for the whole truck. I ended up with 64 studs bumper-to-bumper length and 25 stud width. I layed out dimensions on the table, and was amazed how hefty it looks . Since I dont have XL motors, I wanted to use two L motors. After laying out the dimensions, I am thinking that two L motors won't be enough and I might need couple XLs. As for PF features, apart from 6x6 drivetrain, I will only do headlights. I have been thinking about a winch and fifth wheel, but at this point not sure how I will incorportate them. Once I am building, I will definitely consider the options. Looking forward to your feedback.
  2. Yup. Going to be 19 studs. Inverting the wheels will make rear narrower than needed. The reason I am using hubs is beacause of the width. This way I can have solid structure to start with, instead of using liftarms to build it. Plus, in the long run if I ever want to convert it to offroader, I can always change out gears as necessary.
  3. I believe it looks wider than the actual truck because of all the pieces between the wheels. Actual truck is roughly 2.4m wide. I calculated the scale of lego wheel compared to actual one, and got 1:12.5. Used the scale and width of actual truck in Sariel's converter and got width measurements of 24 studs and 19.2cm. I think once the whole thing is built, it will look fine.
  4. After trying to mount drive train, I ran into several geometry issues and clearances between shocks and tie rods. Ended up rebuilding most of it. Used perpendicular axle/pin pieces on the axles going to differenatials. That elimited some wobble and also provided support for axles that hold shocks. Connected new drivetrain to a frame and tested geometry. Whole thing feels solid and robust. Thanks for noticing that. While rebuilding, I strenthtened the locations of the gears to remove wobble and possible slippage. Was actually thinking about 5x7 frame. Unfortunately, that frame would eliminate spaces I needed to install shocks. I might rebuild using those frames if the rear is too unstable.
  5. I decided to start with rear drivetrain. Been thinking about ways of building it and came up with two methods. First attempt came out too bulky. Its good for a semi truck, but I need something more compact for pickup. Due to offset location of diffs, wheels with shortest axles had weak mechanical connection to drive trivetrain. For the second attempt I used offroad hubs to create less bulkier structure. I like it more because it's lighter, more compact, and wheels have strong connection. Next step is to create a frame to support the drive train.
  6. To avoid ownership confusions, I only post my own images. I posted two links in above post to give an idea of what I am shooting for.
  7. Sure. Here are couple links.
  8. Got a question about leaf springs. I assume the price on shapeways is for each, and not a pair. Is that correct?
  9. I liked the 2005 gt more. This one looks like design team didn't have consensus so they mixed all of their ideas into one car. Lego version might look better.
  10. Regarding the servo, I kind of got lost in my own thoughts . I meant to say that without a way to calibrate rc servo, it wont return to exact center of the specific model. I was thinking about wiring rc servo into LEGO receiver, but from what I understand, receiver won't be able to calibrate exact center to return to. T_Tank, I agree with you on hubs that support bearings. But I guess at that point, it is better to get rc car .
  11. RC servos return to center because of ECS. So I guess a person will need to source the whole system: servo, ecs, tx/rx, and motor. Probably will need weakest motor so the gears dont get stripped. And even then, how viable would it be without closed gearbox and lubrication.
  12. Since first time I seen Hoonicorn, I was wondering if someone will give it LEGO makeover. And here it is. Amazing! :thumbup:
  13. Picked up hot rod 42022 the other day for $15. I am not too excited about the model. But for the money seems like an ok parts box. Dont know if to keep for myself or just give to someone as present
  14. 8070 is a great choice. I got into technic over a year ago and that set gave me good parts to work with. If you are considering 42000 also, get it soon after 8070. It is a great set too and it has been recently discontinued.
  15. Heya! I picked up last Unimog from local TRU for $100 . Got it for myself at first. Then thought that brother-in-law, who is 14, is interested in technic, but can't afford it. Was thinking of giving Unimog to him since I already have one and $100 for that set qualifies it as a good present. The only thing I am not sure about is whether it will be too complicated for him. He has some City sets, but never had technic. He is a bright kid, but I am not sure if he will be able to put it together and enjoy the process. Is Unimog a good start (considering the piece/$$$) or maybe I should get more simple kit for him? Thanks
  16. So many good inputs . Now gonna ask him if he wants it lol. That guy is stuck between video games, school, and piano. I would love for him to get addicted to LEGO, but will see. If he is not much into Unimog, maybe get him crawler. RC should be fun too.
  17. Couple days ago got Unimog from local TRU for $100 :). A week ago got 42000 and 42009 for $280 and 9395 for $30.
  18. In the parts list Madoca has 1 x V1 and 3 x V2. I would presume the only reason for that is that he didn't have 4th V2. After reading articles at, I dont see how V1 is better, unless I am missing something. But V1 should work in this build just fine.
  19. I was fascinated by this model but haven't seen rebrickable parts list so I created it. Hope it helps.
  20. Thanks for the inputs . Ended up getting 9395, 42000 and 42009 all new and sealed for $310 total
  21. So many valid points . The non-technic lego sets that I get last only a day after I build them before getting torn into components. Seems like 8258 is worth current price for collector, which I am not. For the price of the kit I can get twice the parts in current kits. Hopefully the 42029 will help lower price of red panels that only 8258 has and will take price down a bit.
  22. I got pulled into technic half a year ago and over that time aquired some sets through good deals (8110, 8070, 9397) and one at msrp 41999 . I have been reading forums and putting together things as much as life permits. But ever since I seen 8258, I couldnt get it out of my mind. Call it love at first sight . With current prices on that set being ridiculous, I hoped that maybe one day I am going to be able to have budget for it. Due to getting good eBay Bucks promotions, and getting more $$$ than expected, I can now comfortably buy the set. Problem now is that I do not know whether it is worth $300-400. It is awesome set, but I can get much more parts at Lego's msrp prices plus take advantage of x2 VIP month. I like 42000 and the upcoming 42029 has great parts. But I am not excited about them. I would like to find out, preferrably from people who own the above set, whether or not it is worth the $$$ or should I spend it more wisely and get more bang for my buck. I appreciate your inputs.