Dav1d

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Posts posted by Dav1d

  1. Posted

    Here is the 4553 Train Wash in action at Cupar Model Railway Show.
    I have been working my way through my collection, this time displaying trains from 1997-2002 which included the Train Wash. I had bought it, built it and ignored it, but by moving the brushes one stud back from the track it works well.
    I had never seen one in action before. Sorry I have never shared a video before.

     

     

  2. Posted

    I've been displayed my 9V trains for many years at shows and never had any motors burn out. I try to keep my trains short and only have one motor per train. I find it better to have several short loops of track rather than one long loop. Occasionally a motor will cut out, so I put it in a siding for a rest and it works later (there must be a heat cut-out). I do try to keep my track clean. 

  3. Posted

    On 5/3/2024 at 4:52 PM, R0Sch said:

    I see no easy way to motorize this tram. Maybe if the whole middle car was filled with battery box, but the axle distance is wider than a train motor.

    Could you put the motor between the carriages as in a Jacobs bogie ?

  5. Posted · Edited by Dav1d

    It was a joy to work with Holger on this project. I had been disappointed that no English version was available, so thought about translating it for my own use. On contacting Holger we decided to work together to create this translation. I thought I was an "expert" on 12V trains but I learnt so much on this adventure.

    the book is not just about sets but as the translation says "LEGO Railway Wold - The 80's: Models, Landscapes, Set" - it also includes details of specific LEGO train parts/features.

    There was a review of the German version here New book on 1980s trains now available | Brickset

  7. Posted

    R32 & R40 would be too close. You normally need space between them depending on the overhang of your tram.

    I only have standard R40 track. To get different radius I add the odd straight between curves (the more straights the bigger the radius).

    You could add four straights to a circle, one in each of the the N/E/S/W positions to give a larger 'radius'.

    You really need to try it with your tram(s).

  11. Posted

    Working on the 9V train cables I found it was best to remove the last 1mm of insulation of the 2x2 end of the cable to test that the track connections work. Once they are tested, trim the cable again.

    I have fixed two, one now runs the motor backwards, the other forwards. I thought I had got it the same way round as a working cable - the video doesn't mention that

    I think a magnifying glass to see the metal prongs on the 2x2 connectors are pointing up would be useful.

    I may need a spot of glue on the track connectors as the clips are bent and may not hold tight

  12. Posted

    It arrived a few weeks ago, probably didn't come from the US as there there was no customs duty.

    I have been busy so didn't have time to work on it.

    Got the short cable working. Didn't work first time as one of the connectors was damaged. A simple cable tester was necessary.

    Will try the 9V train cables next.

  13. Posted

    I have just bought a second hand 10874 Duplo steam train and accessories. When I place in it 4 AAA (1.2V) rechargeable batteries and press the green button underneath the light lights up and when you push it it goes, it doesn't manage to get up the bridge. Also the stop, reverse and fuel (stop for a short time), light sensors all work but the sound one doesn't.

    I replaced the batteries with new ALDI 1.5V non rechargeable batteries. When I press the green button it lights up but then when you try to push it nothing happens, also pressing the button again the light will not go on.

    Any ideas what the problem is?  

  15. Posted

    Thanks again, just what I needed. I hadn't spotted the tiny metal spikes that go through the wire - maybe the video needs a very close up shot

    Now started on the track connectors, but have to wait for the cable. I think it is coming from the USA, I'm in UK, so I have to wait 10days.

    I will let you know how I get on.

     

  16. Posted

    Thank you, that was just what I was looking for. I have now taken the 2x2 connectors apart and ordered the cable. I expected to remove 1-2mm of insulation from the end of the cable - I don't see how there is an electrical connection.

    This was just 2x2 to 2x2 connectors. I also have the speed controller to track connecters to repair - this is more complex. Is there a similar video on how to replace the that cable?

    Thanks.

  17. Posted

    I have a 9V wire with connectors. The wire has broken where it enters the connectors.

    I have been told I can take the 2x2 connector apart and the wires are just clamped in position.

    How do you take them apart? - I assume it is easy if you know how. I have read that I just need a small flat head screw driver.

    Is there any more advice please maybe with photos of where to put the scredriver(s). Thanks.

      

  19. Posted

    I have a much smaller layout that takes me about 3 hrs to set up. You did well to set all that up in 16 hrs.

    Lots of people ask how long did it take to build? - you build it over years - it's the setting up that takes the time.

    Taking it down also takes a long time - but not so long.

  22. Posted

    On 6/12/2022 at 2:34 AM, Reker1000000 said:

    Part 4 of the series, about which supplemental trackside accessories to buy, is now out and directly linked below.

    There is a small mistake, the same station is shown twice, 7822 rather than 7822 and later 7824.

    The Bricklists from Brickset : LEGO trains sets from the grey era (77xx and 78xx sets) | Brickset: LEGO set guide and database and All the LEGO trains from the Grey track era give most of this information - you have done it in a Video format.

    Not sure if you included the push along & 4.5V train sets as they could easily be upgraded to 12V.

  23. Posted

    Tried running the motor again this morning before cutting - ran perfectly.

    I have a number of 9V motors and run different ones - some must be run more than others, some must hardly ever be run - I have never experienced this before.

    Did find this with 12V - they ned a push to get them going if they have not been used for a while.

    Thanks for your help.

     

  25. Posted

    I was at my first LEGO train show for over two years. After lying in a box unused for this period one of my 9V motors didn't work. For the last 30 years I have never had any problem with them.

    Today I have set it up at home on a circle of track and after giving it a push, it eventually has got round the track and now runs slowly with a 'chugging' sound.

    Does it need oiling or cleaning or something? I have never taken it apart so am reluctant to do that.