Wabbajack

Oh yes, I would love to just have PFX track with DCC trains, but I only have 4 PU hubs with motors, so I am always thinking about sunken cost. Martin

Yes, I absolutely agree, you don't want to burn down you precious train or even more. Also this is an interesting article that takes a different approach (link)

That could be because Li-Ion batteries cut off at around 3.2V/3.3V (wiki link). You are welcome and I am glad to be of help. I already have the parts ordered and will hopefully show some prototype here soon. Martin

Also I used tp4056 as an example for Li-Ion, but it seem it can be also used with LiPo. I have done a little googling, but am not sure. Maybe someone can help? I think the equation mt3608 + tp4056 = 8878 is true, but I think the charging circuit was in the wall adapter 45517. You can use the charging circuit with tp4056 to charge with USB, so maybe mt3608 + tp4056 >= 8878. Martin

Yes, but if you connect a Li-Ion battery to a charging board, for example one with TP4056 and connect the regulator to its output, you will have overcharge and overdischarge protection. The regulator will keep the Hub at 9V, so it will think the battery is always full. The charging board however will simply stop outputting power once battery voltage drops too low. Best regard, Martin

Li-Ion are very sensitive to low discharge (not sure about LiPo, but its better to be safe than sorry) and it is strongly recommended to use a battery protection circuit between the battery and the regulator. I think a battery charging circuit with these protections built-in would be perfect.

I did some tests long ago with two 18650 batteries, but had problems fitting it in my Maersk engine with the PU hub. My plan was to 3D print a custom bottom battery box that attaches the PU hub white top with electronics. This would have been a much better solution. Even if you have just a single 4,2 V battery with 3300 mAh and you double the voltage with a voltage regulator, you get 1650 mAh which compared to 900 mAh of Ikea Ladda batteries is a lot better, (and at higher voltage). Hmm, I think I will order some mt3608, and maybe even try to get a 21700 ...

I am a fan of Thomas, and he is probably cautious about any possible legal troubles.

I am delighted that the products are selling well. I am planning to get some switches and a r104 loop from habricks.com this year and I will get the double crossing once it comes out. I think you can, and are planning to, reuse the switches "R104 base A" mold and just add a center crossing section between for the double crossing? Looking forward to it and I wish you a lot of success in this.

This is my solution: I already had two PF motors, I just got an extension cable and a PoweredUp ligths (the cheapest). I made an adapter cable and I also opened one of the motors to switch its polarity. I think I found all the info for these changes on this forum. I was also experimenting with using 2x18650 Li-Ion batteries (3200 mAh = 3x capacity) instead of the AAAs with the PU circuit board, but I have to figure out how to fit them in the Maersk. However, a full charge of AAAs gave me a long enough runtime, so I put that project on pause. I really like the Bluetooth capability and hope to find time to experiment with some python scripts to run my trains from a Raspberry Pi. Also it is nice to have the extra room when you scrap the PF IR reciever.

Well it was two or three day. That is what was strange to me, that there was no safety for wrong wiring. I will leave it for a week or so with the batteries out and see then. I know an adapter would be difficult for lego, as now wires also tranfer info about what module is connected and can even receive data. Thankfully the train motor can only have wires just connected back without additional resistors or extra work. I may just get a new hub anyway, saw a sweet deal on the app-controlled batmobile.

Yes I knew the layout. For train motor, use pins 5 and 6 and connect 1+4 and 2+3 together. I must have accidentally switched wires from the SATA cable. Thanks for the help anyway.

So I have a little problem and would like an opinion of someone more knowledgeable in this area. First I have to stress, that I know that all I did was my responsibility and only I am to blame for any damages. I have tried to make an PoweredUp to PF adapter using a SATA data cable. I tried to run some train motors, but it did not work. Maybe I used wrong wires from the SATA cable. I finished my tests and turned off the hub normally. A few days later, I tried to switch on the hub, but the led is not blinking and it does not show up in bluetooth. The batteries are charged and fine with a voltage of 7.6V . Is it possible it got bricked with some short? Is here a way to unbrick it? I saw a lot of good work from the community here, so maybe someone can answer my questions. I just want to find out if it is a lost cause. It would be a pity, because I managed to buy it on BL before the price hike. PS: I put this in the train forum as there are a lot PU threads

Great guide, thanks! I will probably take the upper part of the Powered Up box and connect 2 18650 Li-Ion batteries as a source. But if I take out the logic board I could completely ignore the Powered Up adapter cable, hmm ...

I have actually tried something similar. I got two 18650 Li-ion batteries with 3200 mAh capacity and did only a proof of concept. Next step was a better BMS with balancing and the SBrick for bluetooth, but I somehow stopped working on it and started collecting modular buildings... Also, my train has 2 PF motors, both on one connector and one has reversed polarity (i switched the cables inside the motor, not with the bulky reverser). https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KpNMJNVKyhZrp9fCNMgJQh2TSmakUEcPrw/view?usp=sharing