D3K

Eurobricks Counts
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Everything posted by D3K

  1. So I finally made a video! I want to apologize beforehand, as I've never used Windows Live Movie Maker before, so text and descriptions are a little all over the place. Also, I want to apologize for the below-average quality of the video, as I only have my phone (which starts to get old) to record with, and it's not very easy to record and control the vehicle at the same time. I also made a model in LDD of the drive system, if anyone wants to recreate it. The system works quite well, except when you hit a somewhat large obstacle. If it's running on only one motor, the other one will start to get back-driven (or whatever it's called). This can probably be negated by making a ratcheting mechanism on one of the motors (like the ones you see on many Technic winches), at the expense of all but one reverse speed.
  2. I would imagine that especially for the steering of your 8x8, you would be better off with the knob gears, as slippage of the bevel gears you currently use, would probably make the four linear actuators to become misaligned..? That was actually a thing I noticed when I looked over your render of the new steering system;-)
  3. D3K

    Unimog questione

    The idler gear/clutch gear for that function is probably just a little tight, so when it turns without being engaged, there is just a little friction so the axle spins. Same thing happened to me when I tried to build a Unimog.
  4. Hey, great model, turning our real nice! Speaking of "turning", I have a question Jorge, as you seem to have some experience, and love heavy machinery; I am thinking of building a loader of myself, but one thing puzzled me as I was going through it in my head; would you need a central differential on a 4wd articulated loader, if the axles are equally far from the pivot of the articulation? Thank you very much!
  5. Yes! That is my advise as well! But seriously though, I would imagine this to be one of the easier models to motorize. You already have a driveline going from the rear wheels, and up to the front, so just replace the fake inline 4 cylinder engine with a PF motor. Probably even room for an XL in there. Stick a PF servo front down (or up) directly on the vertical axle for the HOG steering, and secure it, place an IR Receiver where one of the seats is, and run them all off the original battery! Do you have the necessary parts? Have you tried anything? I don't have this set myself, but this seems like logical way to go. Of course; don't expect the parts to just "drop in" there, minor modifications must of course be expected...
  6. Take a look at my recent build http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=74386&st=25 . It has very solid double wishbone steerable setup, but you will need some tow-ball pins (not the cross-axle ones found in numbers in 8053) and some of the 6L steering arms. All the other parts I would think you've got covered with the 8043, 8053 and 8110 together
  7. That is very cool! Not only is it something unique, it also looks terrific! Bravo!
  8. Some progress shots: Did some reinforcing of the suspension system, and also simplified it a little. Everything is working like I intended, but I see the weight is starting to become a little excessive. It is extremely sturdy though, no problem dropping it from half a metre. But anyhow, I might strip it down a little, make a short video to show the concept for the four speed drive system, and then dismantle it and try something new.. When I started this, I only planned to make the drive system, but then I wanted four wheel steering, and then I wanted double wishbone suspension, and then I wanted a V8 in it, and so on and so forth... I really gotta learn to stick to the original plan!
  9. WIP: Features: -4 wheel drive, via two PF-XL motors -4 speeds forward, 4 speeds reverse, remote controlled -4 wheel steering with ackerman geometry (also, front wheels steer more than rear wheel, a la 8880), via PF SERVO -Independent double wishbone suspension on all wheels Will make a short demo video later
  10. Got another e-mail from amazon today: We now have delivery date(s) for the order you placed on October 08, 2012 (Order# xxx-xxxxxxx-xxxxxxx): Pawel Sariel Kmiec "The Unofficial LEGO Technic Builder's Guide" Estimated arrival date: December 19, 2012 Hopefully it won't take THAT long... would be just in time for Christmas though!
  11. Get well soon! Can't wait to read/look at the review, I'm sure it will be great, like your others! I just bought the 8455 myself, and really loved the build! For it's size, it's absolutely packed with functions! Truly shows the advantages of pneumatics!
  12. Wow.. That vehicle is probably a lot easier to create in LEGO, than in real life!
  13. Sorry man, I made it yesterday, and it's already mostly disassembled as I needed parts for my next project (Remote controlled, 4WD, 4WS terrain vehicle, with 4 speeds (both forwards and backwards) and double wishbone suspension on all wheels!) Also, I have to say; the extending of the boom is extreeeeemely slow!! Quite possibly because of the very low speed of the XL-motor compared to the buggymotor, and I did not take the time to make some simple mods to fix this.. However, the superstructure is still mostly intact, I'll se what I can salvage and modify, and try to make a short video!
  14. I have the 8053 Mobile Crane, and love the chassis of that model, but the crane part seemed not so well thought out (except for the gearbox, which is brilliant). I have drooled over the 8421 for some time, because of the great looking three stage crane, but I really don't like the chassis of the model! Recently I had the chance to buy an 8421 reasonably cheap, but decided not to (I instead bought an 8455, even cheaper!!). But I always wanted to make at least the crane part of the huge model! So I though; what if both cranes, 8421 and 8053 had a love child? Take the best parts of both parents, and make something great? Well, here goes: I don't have the pneumatic cylinder coupler brackets, so I instead used old, flat bottomed, cylinders. Also, just one pair seemed a little weak, so I put two in. I also had to redesign the rear of the superstructure to better accomodate the PF battery box and XL motor, as I do not have a buggy motor or yellow battery box either. Anyways, I'm pretty pleased with the result! The crane might look a little big, but I don't think it is TOO big!
  15. Looking forward to seeing the finished project! On topic however; It's a bit difficult to see from the image you posted, but when making a double wishbone setup, it's really important that the wishbones and the u-joints bend "as one", that is so that the u-joint is neither further out nor further in than the pivot point on the wishbones. Or else the geometry will misalign as the suspension travels. An alternative could be to use CV-joints instead, as they are essentially frictionless where you put the axle, and allows for some travel (about 1,5 L I think?). However, for an 8 wheeled soviet APC you would need eight of them, or maybe even 16, as well as the "female" CV-joint-axles.. and they are not especially cheap.. Hope this helps! I made a quick model to show you what I meant by the allignment: This shows the concept, however it would not work, as the arms (in this case (that's not even a wishbone)) are touching the axle
  16. I bought one of these at a local hardware store In it I have a system (always changing though), for example I have yellow beams in one of the larger drawers, yellow bent beams in another, and the same goes for black as well.. In the smaller trays I separate gears (bevel in one, clutch in one, normal and screws in one etc), pins (black, blue, this and that), connectors, small L-beams, thin liftarms of different colours, rubber bands, string and links, etc etc. It really is quite nice and keeps things organized (and it was really cheap!). Just make sure you do not leave too many drawers out at once! I found that out the hard (and extremely annoying) way. Also, I bought several of these Great for the smaller, but not so plentiful parts. For example transluscent parts of different colours, rarer connectors, pneumatic T-bars, U-joints, small (2L, 3L, 4L) axles, gray pins, half pins, tan pins, etc etc etc. Also very cheap. Beams/liftarms of lenghts more than 7L, as well as panels and other larger parts, i keep in plastic zip-lock bags, and wheels (all sorts) I keep in a good old shoebox. I have one box for pneumatic hose and cylinders, and one for all the Power Functions equipment. As long as I keep my building somewhat in line, and don't make too much of a mess, I can pack it all up and place in my closet in a couple of minutes!
  17. D3K

    MOC: LEGO Mascot Home 1958

    This is simply astonishing! Parts used in ways, and building techniques, I've never seen before, at least not on this scale! Just fantastic! Great job! Wish I could see it in Oslo, but unfortunately I am on the wrong side of the country
  18. The project is finished View from the front: Without the grille and fender. You can see the setup for the fake V6 is siilar to the original. Bottom view, drivetrain and pneumatic system Driver's cabin (with driver) Placement of the compressor system (under the cabin) Finally, a video of the truck:
  19. Can't think of anything other than the black brick 6x2x2 that you mentioned. It was used in several Technic sets back in the day at least By the way: what size trebuchet do you plan to make? I too am a big fan of the brilliant machine, and have been thinking of building one in Lego On a side note: I also really really hope to make a real one some day! Like a properly big one! That can throw old washing machines and other heavy objects!!
  20. Been working some more on it today: Also, from the back: I know the original 8868 did not have mudguards (or whatever it's called) on the rear wheels, but I really liked the way these turned out, so I left them on. Anyways, here's a picture without them: And lastly, I've been adding some seats and a steering wheel, as well as the steps to get up into the truck (under the valves), and also the white things on the sides of the hood and the white vertical exhaust pipes. FUN FACT: All the white parts I've used (the exhaust pipes, fuel tank and hood thingies) are from the actual 8868 set I got about 20 years ago!! Also, the reason I am doing this particular build now, is I found the instructions manual in the back of a closet here the other day!
  21. Indeed, it does! But unfortunately I have to go and get educated early in the morning, so I think I'll call it the day now.. This is the current state of things:
  22. And you are ofcourse right! I am trying to recreate the 8868 Airtech Claw Rig in studless! The three main goals I have for this project are 1. To keep the original functions as they were on the 8868 2. To make it look like a "new" set (in the same style as the sets coming out these days) 3. To still make it instantly recognizable as the legendary Airtech Claw RIg Made some progress the last couple of hours: On a roll now, probably won't get much sleep tonight
  23. Ok, new project: Ring a bell, anyone? How about now:
  24. Well, for interesting parts and functions, I would definately go for the 8265 Front Loader. Also, the Flatbed Truck has some nice functions, as well as Power Functions
  25. Congratulations on the exceptionally positive feedback! I for one can't wait till it arrives for the rest of us to enjoy!