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Thanks. It was an interesting project. To answer a few of the subsequent points. I was consulted on all of the changes that CADA had to make in order to make my model fit with their parts inventory, an on the colour scheme. Regarding the red strip at the back, I thought it was an interesting take on incorporating the lights, but it is pretty simple to change out for bodywork colours as was in my original design.

Earlier in 2022 my son and I built the brilliant Mclaren P1 that 'Brunoj' designed several years back. As well as being a lot of fun to do, It was interesting building this MOC from another designer as the building styles was very different to my own, and thus there was a lot to learn. Anyway, the build kind of inspired me to try to design something similar but smaller, in 1:10 scale, which I have to say, I still very much prefer (don't ask why as I don't really know the answer) Lego have also put out a lot of new technic parts in recent years, so I thought I would try to utilise them. I have to say that the alternating beams and some of the new panels and connectors are really useful as are the little red half pins with friction. Central to this MOC is a new 8 speed gear box with neutral and reverse. The HOG gear shifters on the dashboard are used for the gear shifting, and these also move the paddle shifters at the steering wheel for a bit of effect. There is an even step ratio between each gear, with neutral and reverse selection achieved using something similar to 'Anto's' recent design. The gearbox has to be compact to fit inside this MOC and as with all my recent gearboxes is designed so the engine can sit as low as possible above it. Overall it is super smooth and functions nicely. Under the bonnet is the mechanism to raise and lower the spoiler. As the spoiler is raised, the suspension is also lowered - into "track" mode. The doors open manually and can be easily locked into place using a neat little lever that presents itself at the door open. I had designed a remote opening mechanism, but much preferred the manual version in the end. Hand of God steering also included and a few cosmetic details. Overall, I am really pleased with the internals of this car, the gearbox works really well, and the chassis is sturdy and stiff. The bodywork flows pretty well and is sturdy with only a few small parts held by friction alone. The front wheel arches were definitely the hardest part to design! While this MOC was definitely inspired by its larger predecessor and utilises a few techniques and design elements that I learned while building it, overall it has turned out to be a completely different construction which much more follows my own style, utilises a lot of new parts that Lego has release in the intervening years, and also reflects the different scale at which it is built. A few pictures below, and I will compile a short clip to show the functions later.

After well over a year of on and off building I have just finally completed a MOC of the amazing Koenigsegg Jesko. The model features the great syncro dyhedral door opening mechanism which is operated manually via a small lever on the top of the dashboard. It has the triplex suspension on the rear as most other Koenigsegg cars, but in this case also at the front. both front and rear suspensions work well. The gearbox of the real Jesko is a real masterpiece that enables selection of any of the 9 gears on demand, or via the automated electronics. It is also smaller and lighter through clever use of its gear combinations. All of this was pretty impossible to replicate at the scale of this MOC with Lego, but it gave me some ideas for a slightly new concept for a 6 speed sequential gearbox with neutral and reverse. I will make a short clip of how it works in the next week or so. The gear shifters are hidden on the front dashboard, and also move the paddle shifters located at the steering wheel, which are more for show. The rear wing is moveable and the front and rear of the car open up manually. With the gearbox there is no space to fill this car full of battery boxes and motors to replicate the remote controlled opening of all of these doors, so I went with solutions that were simple to operate. A token HOG steering which is slightly hampered by the central windscreen strut - this central strut represents the resting position of the windscreen wiper on the real car, but in this case, adds some rigidity, and also defines the position of the front of the windscreen. It was a fun but very challenging design process - especially the bodywork!!! As for the wing mirrors, a nice little solution in terms of aesthetics but not particularly prone to staying perfectly in position!!! They are staying though. Front Triplex Suspension The two red shocks take the majority of the load. This turned out to be a solid system and plenty firm enough not to sag. One could also use the older 11949 steering hubs - but these are getting a little rare and expensive. Rear Triplex Suspension Quite a big improvement to the layout I used in the previous One:1. It is robust and works well. Gearbox The space for the gearbox was constrained in terms of length and by the requirement to sit the engine as low as possible in the chassis thus it was a challenge to fit everything in. Each shift toggles between the "ODD" and "EVEN" gears, and each second shift switches the other half of the gearbox. Fitting it all in, and achieving the almost perfectly even step ratio between gears took a lot of experimentation and lot of evenings playing with Excel. Neutral and reverse also fit in as part of the sequence as I like it that way in my gearboxes. In summary, a lot of gears to achieve half of what the real Koenigsegg gearbox achieves, and in double the space, but kind of fun to design, build and play with nonetheless and it runs pretty smoothly. What is the point of building a (non-motorised) larger scale super car if you don't at least attempt to put a gearbox in it (42125???) Video Clip

I have always been interested in the Tucker Sno-Cat range of vehicles with their articulating 4 track system (read more at Sno-Cat). This model is based on the 2000 series Sno-Cat, and includes the snow tiller found on the more recent Trail Boss models. This is a significant iteration of a previous MOC that I created a number of years ago, making use of all of the new orange parts that have been gradually released by Lego over the years. This model utilises Buwizz3 (it could be adapted to run with Buwizz2) to drive a number of functions: 4 track drive all track steering (including steering wheel in cab) raise / lower front snow plough raise / lower rear tiller PTO to the rear tiller when model is driven to spin the snow smasher (not the technical name for this part) The model also includes a suspension system and articulating tracks, opening doors, additional controls on the Snow Plough to enable forward/back and horizontal tilt of the blade. Both the Plough and Tiller can be removed to allow for new attachments to be connected to the Sno-Cat.I have used system bricks a bit more extensively that I have ever done before in my technic models to capture the details, both external and inside the cab. A few pictures below and some more at https://bricksafe.com/pages/PvdB/mocs/tucker-sno-cat Also on https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-151766/paulvandebulk/tucker-sno-cat/#details A short and very (very) quickly put together clip https://vimeo.com/836967463

Cheers All. A couple of screen grabs from LDraw added to the bricksafe above, several showing the underside.

This looks brilliant. I also like the way that you have achieved the livery, and I like all of the details at the front and in the back of the truck. Great job.

It was well worth the iterations as while I liked even the first version, the final version resembles the real car much better. Personally I think that this is one of your best so far !! I like it a lot.

Hi, well replicated without instructions. I have held off publishing the instructions on this one as am still working with a partner to release as a set - but when this happens, our current understanding is that I will also put the instructions up on re-brickable. It has taken longer than we thought it would! Hi, indeed, this CADA version looks like a 1:8 scale model, where as mine is a smaller 1:10 scale. Today is the first time I saw the CADA release.

nice work on the chassis and bodywork. I like the tub section. I would agree that the roof section looks much to high (and counting the studs, and comparing it to other similar MOCs of this type of car maybe confirms this. I reckon it would be a relative easy fix to lower it by one stud?

Cheers All Responding to a few of the comments, Regarding the front fenders, my first choice was to try to use panels, but I couldn't find a solution that filled the gap behind the headlights, and it just looked half done. I think that the new panels from 42143 might have helped, but in the meantime, the connectors gave me the shape I was after with the space I had to play with. I guess the use of system bricks and locking hinges might also be a solution one could try. The stacked panels in the door - also after trying a number of panel solutions, these provided the shape, and more importantly, nicely rounded edge at the bottom that looked best. Using these straight beams also helped achieve a near perfect transition between the back of the door and the bodywork which I was aiming for, the compromise is the vertical lines, which are less noticeable on the actual model that in the photos. As for the rear light strip. I haven't found a way to incorporate, but I may still try. A trans red rigid hose from Lego would be nice in this case!!! This MOC only currently works in black or red, due to the requirement for this panel I am sure Lego will put out other colours soon, but I am taking a bet that these colours will probably be either magenta, bright yellow, or purple, or perhaps some other useless colour. (just to make clear, I am not opposed to the colours themselves, just the fact that they are released on massively limited range of technic parts, and therefore nearly impossible to use on any MOC) In terms of scale difference, thanks to Bruno for adding the pictures, I don't have any comparison pics either, but can say that 1:10 is significantly smaller that 1:8 especially when it come to space underneath and clearances etc

Great to see you are back Grum.

I am beginning to wonder how we have been led to thinking that £130-160 for a mish-mash of plastic panels and parts, seemingly thrown together is money well spent - and worth it?? This line of Technic "display models" are so ugly and boring, even my kids don't want to build them!!! The halo on this model is so horrible, I can barely look at it

Another thing I did, and you could also use with this set up, is use the new red diff as it will lower the ratio right at the source. That will give you more scope to play with the range in the actual gearbox.

Have you tried the gearbox yet? I am just wondering if 1st gear is going to lock it up, if you know what I mean. Especially when the engine is mounted. adding the 7th gear does make things a lot more complex when working with Lego gears and selectors etc, so interesting solution to that problem. Having looked closer, I think you have the 12 and 20 tooth gears the wrong way round for 3rd and 7th in the CAD image.

What a massive improvement on 42125. Nice work. I like the shaping

Its starting to look pretty good. Is there anyway to get a bit more of a curved rear end, Although I like the shapes you have made with the connectors, it is looking a little bit flat. The roof and engine cover looks good. It would be good if you could get the panel in front of the rear wheels to meet closer to panels above, and at the moment I recon the air intakes on the doors are a little bit extreme. However, it is coming together nicely.

Great Tractor and loads of nice functions. I really like it.

I guess it doesn't matter too much, as you can just light up the rear tyres and spin it round

I have put together a short clip showing some of the functions this evening. I need to do a bit more work on a spare chassis I built so that I can also create a clip of the gearbox working - in the mean time.........

That's right about the gearbox - . As for the differential, in my early designs I did engage from either side, but eventually found that in the space I had available, and for the gear ratios I needed, it was easier to engage from the one side.

I have started adding some CAD images on the main post.

I think this is a cool looking build. All of the bodywork just works well together.

I somewhat agree you you on this. For a long while in the build I had a panel solution in place, but it didn't work well either. I spent several days trying all different solutions, including using slope bricks and plates, but they looked even worse so in the end I settled with achieving a good line and accepting the little gaps. If I find a way, it is a relatively simple mod. Don't worry, no offence taken - you don't have to apologise. I am about 80% of the way through building the CAD for this - which takes ages!!! but it is far enough through to take some images of the inside. I will make some clips of the working parts over this coming week. And cheers to everyone for the comments so far.

The McLaren F1 was an iconic and unique supercar. 20 years on it still looks great and performs well against some of the more modern machines. Suspension – Modelled on the McLaren F1 set up. Positive caster angle on the front steering linkage was added to help with the return to centre on the RC model. This was retained on the non powered version. Steering – A relatively simple set up due to the central position of the steering wheel in the car. Gearbox – I wanted to try to model the transverse gearbox set up on the McLaren but I also wanted the gear selector to be simple, accurate, and easy for a kid to use and understand. The end result is a transverse, high / low gear box. The gear selection is really crisp, and it works well so I am really pleased with the compromise. Engine – A big v12 that was difficult to fit in. The size of the engine led to some of the size compromises on the gearbox. Butterfly Doors – The butterfly doors are partially pneumatically assisted in that it was not possible with the current design to generate enough pneumatic power to lift the doors, but the pneumatics are able to hold the doors in raised positions Front Bonnet – Manually opens Rear engine bay cover – The door is held in open position by a passive pneumatic mini cylinder Rear exhaust silencer cover - Manually opens. Airbrake – This can be raised and lowered pneumatically. Spoiler – Two mini pneumatic cylinders block the spoiler into a raised position but allow continued use of the airbrake. Pneumatic pump – the pneumatic pump is disguised under the large engine air intakes. It is operated by manually turning a small handle that tucks back down when not in use. One pneumatic switch operates the airbrake – Up/Down. The other pneumatic switch operates the spoiler up function in one position, and in the other position pressures up the pneumatic cylinders that assist the butterfly doors.

LOL.... that happened to me when Lego brought out the orange gear shift piece. I subsequently binned the MOC and started again, and am still working on it (very slowly as also finishing off a house extension!!!)