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About TimeCruiser

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  1. TimeCruiser

    Help creating a turntable?

    If you do not need it to be attached, you could build a Lazy Susan out of (2) x784 and ~42 soccer balls or basketballs; but if you are looking to buy x784, you are probably better off buying the entire set that it came in due to the current cost.
  2. TimeCruiser

    [REVIEW] 81000 Koi - Lego Forma

    If you want to make the crank right-handed, instead of trying to switch the gear mechanism, it looks like an option would be to remove the crank, push the axle through to the other side, and reattach the crank. However, if the skins are only one-sided, the crank would then need to be in back, instead of reattaching the fins to have the fish face the opposite direction. The video posted in the comments has a variant of the box that includes the part count of 294 for set 81000, but the box shown in the review does not appear to include the part count. Would this be a difference between the US (with part count) and UK (without part count) versions, or was there an extra layer of packaging as a result of buying all the skins? Was the part count listed somewhere else? From summing the part count on the last page of the instructions, I counted only 293 parts, unless the thank you note is also counted as a part, which I would find odd. Does the set use the new pin somewhere other than for holding on the skin? It looks like the default skin only has 30 holes, and uses 30 of the new pin, with there then being 1 additional unused pin that is counted on the parts inventory, along with only 1 actual "extra" pin, similar to the other small parts. For comparison, the 81001 shark skin appears to have 31 holes, but 2 locations are doubled up, for only 29 pins used. The 2 skin sheets bring the part count to the listed total of 31 as expected, plus the typical single extra pin in the bag. If the thank you note is not counted as a part, then my best guess at the discrepancy for set 81000 is that the skin was originally designed with another hole. Alternatively, the skins may have initially been 3 parts instead of 2. From the video, it looks like the skin sheets for 81002 and 81003 are cut the same as 81000, with only 30 holes for 30 pins, plus 2 skins, and it seems likely that there would be an unused pin, plus the typical extra pin, unless there are 3 skin sheets. The video also showed the new pins in red a few times, but the depictions of the completed builds showed white pins, so I suspect that the red would just be from testing the mold for the new part. Are the pins difficult to remove from the skins? The only reasons I can come up with for including more pins with the extra skins are for ease of use, for making greater quantities of the part available, for justifying the cost of new skin packs, or for a canceled plan of having other colors of the part available.
  3. TimeCruiser

    [MOC] Nintendo Switch

    I have built a scale model of the Nintendo Switch video game console, featuring controllers that are detachable in a realistic manner, and the ability for the screen to be built in either direction. I have shown it at my local LEGO convention before, but have more recently built the red controllers and alternate tile screen option. Above is a version of the screen built with studs toward the top of the Switch, depicting Link climbing a mountain against a backdrop of a sunset over Hyrule, from The Legend of Zelda: Breath of the Wild. Below is a version of the screen built with studs toward the face of the Switch, but using 1x1 tiles to maintain a smooth pixelated surface for the screen, depicting the Master Sword in its pedestal in the Lost Woods, also from The Legend of Zelda. The controller attachment uses a combination of parts 30586 (Plate 2 x 8 with Door Rail) and 60478 (Plate 1 x 2 with Handle on End), which allows the controllers to slide unidirectionally in a method that I have not seen used in a set, though I have not verified that it has never been done before. Instead of the typical use as a hinge, I have used parts 3937 and 3938 for providing a slight indent to accommodate the rail, without the loss of structural stability that would occur from just having a gap or using a 1x2 panel. I have not yet built a controller grip for the "Joy-Con" controllers to attach to when separated from the screen, but the sliding mechanism is compact enough to not pose a problem. I have only built the controllers out of red and dark bluish gray / medium stone due to limited availability of the curved parts 30357, 30565, and 85080 (or 3063). To facilitate the screen being built at a consistent depth in either direction I have used 2x2 jumper plates, since the hollow studs provide a half-plate depth against the face of a plate or brick, but get covered by the tubes of 2x plates beneath the tiles. The console (excluding screen) contains 94 or 96 parts, depending on which screen style is attached. Each "Joy-Con" controller contains 47 parts, thus 94 parts for one pair of controllers. The screen with studs toward the top of the Switch contains 203 parts as shown, but is quite variable upon the design. The tile screen contains 180 tiles supported by 10 plates. Below are the separated sections of the build, for which the total part count of what is shown comes to 679 (92+2+4+94+94+203+180+10). I have submitted the idea on the LEGO Ideas website, and if anyone is inclined to support the product idea, that would be appreciated. If anyone has questions or feedback, feel free to comment below.
  4. TimeCruiser

    Building Technique Input

    Here is a photo of what I had in mind using the 2 stud wide equivalent bracket 99781. I encountered a slight bowing also, which was more pronounced with 3 plates than with 1 brick between the brackets.
  5. TimeCruiser

    Building Technique Input

    You could use 2 of part 36840 or 2 of part 36841 facing away from each other and a 1x2 plate and 1x2 tile connecting the hollow studs.
  6. TimeCruiser

    Introducing..... the JUMPER BRACKET!

    What stood out to me from the way part 41682 is depicted is the orientation, and that the part has no hollow studs. From looking through other brackets, as well as snot bricks, it seems that every time a part has studs facing in multiple directions, the studs that are not facing up are hollow. This might be easier to manufacture, but could also be to avoid the extra depth that results from the LEGO printing on a typical stud, since it would be problematic if the sideways studs were placed against the face of a neighboring brick. The only parts listed on Bricklink or Peeron as brackets that have solid studs facing sideways are 3956 and 4169. Part 4169 seems to have been a fairly specialized part that would unlikely to be built against the face of a brick, and seems to have been effectively replaced by 2422. Part 3956 has the part number printed beneath / opposite of the studs, and typically the part number is on the underside of a part, so it seems to me that the orientation that Bricklink and Peeron depict for 3956 would actually be incorrect, and the solid studs should face up instead of sideways. As for what effect this would have on the naming of part 41682, I think that referring to the 1x2 plate first would be proper, for the sake of being consistent, rather than just because TLG referenced it this way. So, instead of the current Bricklink name of "Bracket 2 x 2 - 1 x 2 Centered", I would suggest "Bracket 1 x 2 - 2 x 2 Centered", since Bricklink does not seem to make any distinction for studs or tubes on the bracket face. Alternatively, the name could be extended to "Bracket 1 x 2 - 2 x 2 Tile Centered", or part 6061 could be used as a naming reference, to come up with "Bracket 1 x 2 - 2 x 2 with Holes on Side Centered". For either of these latter methods parts 3956 and 4598 might warrant renaming as well.
  7. TimeCruiser

    Engineering of The LEGO House

    This month's issue of an engineering magazine that I receive has the cover article about the engineering that went into The LEGO House that opened last year in Billund, Denmark. The article is also available online, and I figured others may be interested in reading it as well, since it goes into more depth than the presentation that was given at my local LEGO fan convention a while ago. I did not find any engineering related topics for The LEGO House, so it seems like this would just get categorized as web-content in the Media forum. If there is a better place, then moving or merging it would be appreciated.
  8. TimeCruiser

    [REVIEW] 21305 - Maze

    Based on the photo of the underside, it looks like the 6x6 tile is actually part 10202, rather than the old 6881 version. Thus, it is not quite as rare, but it is more useful.
  9. TimeCruiser

    Double updating

    You are welcome.
  10. TimeCruiser

    Double updating

    Maybe an add-on is interfering? You could try disabling all add-ons, and if that fixes it, enable each individually until you find which one has the problem.
  11. TimeCruiser

    LEGO Partners with Roblox

    6.5 months after the shutdown of LEGO Universe, and concurrent to the availability of a Minecraft LEGO set, LEGO has a partnership with Roblox for a Hero Factory themed level. However, I have not found any announcement of this partnership on the LEGO website, and a search for "Roblox" on LEGO.com instead leads to the Minecraft set. I find this partnership a bit odd, not only because it is with a former direct competitor of LU, but also because Roblox had a partnership with Hasbro for KRE-O Battleship, with those levels still able to be played. While I do not think that TLG buying Roblox outright would make good business sense for either company, I cannot help but wonder if TLG's standard plan for "digital play" will be further partnerships (for MMOGs, at least) instead of eventually trying another LEGO MMOG; but I am interested in reading others' thoughts on this as well.
  12. TimeCruiser

    LEGO Collection rescued from rubbish tip

    I prefer Peeron as well, because it has alphabetical by part instead of color; and I find Peeron to be easier to navigate, with a less cluttered layout. However, at least for set #6494, Peeron/PICSL seems to be the only option for instructions, since LEGO.com does not have the PDF. Back on topic though: The chainsaw is in 16 sets, (17 if you count set #1722 seperate like Peeron does) The green BIONICLE mask is in 2 versions of 1 set and the head connector would be from the same set. The gold Throwing Disk may have been a random design that came in a regular set or in a supplementary pack The yellow stickered Technic seat is only in 1 set The blue magnet holder tile is in 2 sets The raised platform is in 8 sets The Islanders shield is in 9 sets The white flag is in 65 sets The blue flag is in 57 sets The red antenna is in 37 sets
  13. TimeCruiser

    LEGO Collection rescued from rubbish tip

    It also looks like you have a Technic Turntable: top base Also, an M:Tron piece, that was only in 3 sets a wing plate that was only in 2 sets and a 10 degree slope brick 6 x 8 in dark gray or with shingles or with sheet-metal pattern. If you separate the bricks and plates out, the remaining pieces would be the easiest to use to identify sets, especially minifigs or other parts with printing or stickers.
  14. TimeCruiser

    Lego Magazine Scan of Hockey Arena.

    I do not have a scan, but the issue with the hockey arena is September-October 2004. You can check the links in this topic to see if any of them have the scan.
  15. If you are looking for someone that you know the username of, then you can go to a random user's profile, and edit the address bar to have the name of the person you are looking for instead. Here is the link you are looking for though: lightning51