edsmith0075

Thank you both for the advice. I have been kicking around the idea of the "neck" connector as that is the fraction of space difference I am trying to accomplish. I have even been cruising Flickr for pics of reverse engineering and found a wealth of stuff none of which looks to be utilizing that clip. I have not seen anyone in the train community create this detail in their rolling stock so I am excited to share the final product once completed. Ed.

Greetings crew, I am in the process of upgrading my 6 wide trains to 8 wide. I have 2 XL, 2 L, and 2 M motors. I would like to utilize all 6 of these in my new Loco builds. I am having trouble with the gearing and ratios. I am wondering if it is possible to match the PF Train motor so that the Locos with regular PF motors and run with the PF train motors when pulling long trains. Any advice is appreciated. The XL's I would really like to use in my larger diesels like the ES44. Ed

Yep, American mainline. I guess the bottom line is what curve ratio or degree can I use with a more detailed lego train model thats 8 wide, stairs attatched to chasis ( not the bogie ) and will support coupling ( Kaydee couplers mod ). I am trying to figure this out and have been googling different scales. I am prepared to make a large investment in ME Models larger turning radii but want to make sure I order the most compatible. Ed BTW: Thank you to all who reply to my post. I love the reward of building trains with legos and I value the support from these boards!

I would like to build my 8 wide trains without the stairs attached to the bogies, this is closer to real trains. Has anyone her done this? Should I throw out the Lego Turning tracks and just upgrade everything to ME Models? Looking for suggestions and advice, Thanks in advance! Ed

The real Maersk train! by Sjaak Lego, on Flickr I hope this pics workout. I apologize if they are to big or formatted incorrect. Ed

Greetings crew, So I have taken on construction/building an 8 wide version of the 6 wide Maersk GP40. I would like to make mine into an SD 40 but for now I stuck with the front and back slopes/nose. I am trying to line up the slopes even, 3 on each side. The problem Im having is constructing this evenly with little ( 1 to 2 plates ) between the rear vents and the back of the nose. That sounds confusing when I read it back to myself so I apologize. Here are some pics... 8 Wide Maersk SD40 by Ed Smith, on Flickr 8 Wide Maersk SD40 by Ed Smith, on Flickr 8 Wide Maersk SD40 by Ed Smith, on Flickr 8 Wide Maersk SD40 by Ed Smith, on Flickr 8 Wide Maersk SD40 by Ed Smith, on Flickr 8 Wide Maersk SD40 by Ed Smith, on Flickr 8 Wide Maersk SD40 by Ed Smith, on Flickr 8 Wide Maersk SD40 by Ed Smith, on Flickr 8 Wide Maersk SD40 by Ed Smith, on Flickr 8 Wide Maersk SD40 by Ed Smith, on Flickr Below is the most recent 8 wide model I have been working on. I want to have a similar distance in the rear on my Maersk model, like this one. Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr I can provide additional pics or angles if that helps. I'm kinda stuck on this right now and am hoping the community here can provide some insight or experience to this 8 wide newbie. Ed

I would like to keep the original Maersk blue. I still have the decals from the original 6 wide and want to use those on the 8 wide. The rear nose is the only part right now giving me a problem. My apologies for the pics being to big. I hope the edited ones I rep[laced them with are more appropriate. Ed

Great designs! I am building 8 wide Locomotives and trying to upgrade all my trains from 6 wide to 8 wide.

Update! I have been working on this train as time permits and alot of progress has been made. I am struggling with the rear nose. I have been able to get the cheese slopes to work evenly but am encountering a problem having it all line up with the roof. I have attached pics. The main problem is the thin gap at the top between the nose and the roof. I am trying to have a gapless top and clean this up. Maersk Blue cheese slopes are not available in 1x1 only 2x1. Help.... Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr

Thank you all for the advice. David I think your the closest to what Im trying to describe. I will give all these options a try. I am aware of the headlight and cheese slope technique but that leaves me this a stud stick out on the side and that won't work for me. If you notice on the Black 8 wide I pictured in the original post the distance between the rear vents and the start of the rear nose angle is very minimal. That is what I am trying to do here with the Maersk, but with cheese slopes instead of large angle bricks. I am trying to keep a lot of the original Maersk Train design in building this 8 wide hence the reason for wanting to use the cheese slopes. I am looking for insight into how to build the front nose as well... Any opinions here will be appreciated.

This may be off topic, so I apologize in advance, can you post pics or provide a tutorial about your boxcars? They look amazing especially the UP one!

So Im looking for advice from members here on my current WIP. To start off with I used ideas and designs from swoofty and wardlaws on flickr to create this train. With that said my 8 wide locomotive seems out of proportion to the bogies. I have seen multiple other 8 wides and their bogies do not look as disproportionate as mine do at this stage of the build. Is there any advice on incorporating these standard lego train size trucks into my 8 wide train. I love the freedom of building 8 wide but I'm struggling with proper proportions and need the communities assistance. Pictures are below any advice or critique is greatly appreciated. I apologize about the quality I snapped these on my way out the door to work this morning. WIP 8 Wide GP 60 by Edsmith0075, on Flickr WIP 8 Wide GP 60 by Edsmith0075, on Flickr WIP 8 Wide GP 60 by Edsmith0075, on Flickr WIP 8 Wide GP 60 by Edsmith0075, on Flickr WIP 8 Wide GP 60 by Edsmith0075, on Flickr WIP 8 Wide GP 60 by Edsmith0075, on Flickr WIP 8 Wide GP 60 by Edsmith0075, on Flickr WIP 8 Wide GP 60 by Edsmith0075, on Flickr WIP 8 Wide GP 60 by Edsmith0075, on Flickr WIP 8 Wide GP 60 by Edsmith0075, on Flickr WIP 8 Wide GP 60 by Edsmith0075, on Flickr WIP 8 Wide GP 60 by Edsmith0075, on Flickr WIP 8 Wide GP 60 by Edsmith0075, on Flickr WIP 8 Wide GP 60 by Edsmith0075, on Flickr

Ok, things have been busy for me but I was able to work on the engine a bit this weekend. Here are UPDATED pics of my progress and Im looking for feedback. I still have to do the steps and buffers on the bogies. Untitled by Edsmith0075, on Flickr Untitled by Edsmith0075, on Flickr Untitled by Edsmith0075, on Flickr Untitled by Edsmith0075, on Flickr Untitled by Edsmith0075, on Flickr

Thank you for the advice. I will be going back and removing a plate of the length but keeping the height. The back still needs to be worked out. Im trying to avoid alot of space with brackets and such because I want to use ni-cd RC battery packs and utilize the interior space of 8 wide train builds.

Ok so I went ahead and lowered the total height by 1 plate and extended the train by one plate. What do you guys think. by Edsmith0075, on Flickr by Edsmith0075, on Flickr by Edsmith0075, on Flickr by Edsmith0075, on Flickr by Edsmith0075, on Flickr I'm struggling with getting the back piece correct. I am trying to line it up evenly with the top but I don't want a noticeable gap at the bottom. Untitled by Edsmith0075, on Flickr by Edsmith0075, on Flickr by Edsmith0075, on Flickr by Edsmith0075, on Flickr by Edsmith0075, on Flickr by Edsmith0075, on Flickr by Edsmith0075, on Flickr

These are pics after my work from last night After looking at these Im thinking the engine is too tall. I can't quite get an exact number on wardlaws model for height so that might be why my height is off. Untitled by Edsmith0075, on Flickr by Edsmith0075, on Flickr by Edsmith0075, on Flickr by Edsmith0075, on Flickr by Edsmith0075, on Flickr by Edsmith0075, on Flickr by Edsmith0075, on Flickr

3 by wardlws, on Flickr 4 by wardlws, on Flickr 5 by wardlws, on Flickr 2 by wardlws, on Flickr This model is my inspiration piece. I love his trains and this one inspired me to step up to 8 wide. Any suggestions on making my model as proportionate as his. I think that his is pretty proportionate or atleast is not to far off.

Thank you! The proportion ratio is something that Im still struggling with. I am grateful for the info of 48 long and the 7.2 studs. I just read your reply now but last night I worked on the model and put in actual PF bogies ( I read the comment about the bogies and respect you sharing that info ), come to find out the unpowered ones in the original pics were a plate low and that plat difference makes a big difference. I also extended the fuel tank by one stud. With that said I had to move the bogies by one plate out to accommodate the new fuel tank size. I feel this is getting closer to spec. I am not expecting to be able to get this exact but the closer the better and I greatly value this communities feedback and assistance.

I love the suggestion! I was considering this, I want to use the standard lego PF train motors. Have you seen or do your know if these would work on them?

Seaboard System SD50 by swoofty, on Flickr L&N SD50 by swoofty, on Flickr Swoofty has made some amazing builds and I would like to incorporate or learn something similar to the above pictures rear vents on these models. I am constructing 8 wide trains and think these designs will look great on the GP and SD models Im building. 09 by wardlws, on Flickr This is the venting that I would like to use on a GP50 that Im trying to build. I love the rear vents and have not been able to even wrap my head around the center unit. I know these are advanced techniques but I want to learn this and the hours upon hours Im spending trying to recreate the images are becoming frustrating to say the least. Thanks in advance for the feedback. Any links or images that teach the SNOT techniques to build this or other designs that are sideways built will help greatly. Ed

Thanks for taking the time to post this info. " The rolling resistance of lubricated stock wheel sets is almost nothing compared to the rolling resistance of Technic axles. Be prepared to fight lots of resistance if you make custom rolling stock that doesn't use the stock wheel sets. " I feel like an idiot asking this but could you help me identify the best setup for rolling stock. I know with the locomotives the fake/unpowered bogies use Technic axles/pieces and, from my experience, have a lot of resistance. What do you recommend as an alternative? Ed

Thank you for the info! I saw a pic that showed the clips but that did not look sturdy enough to hold up. Is there any other techniques and any suggestion for building the middle vents with the grill pieces on top of each other like in the union pacific image?

Thank you, I will try to apply the advice.

Hey gang, I am interested in starting the builds of rolling stock for my 8 wide collection. I am looking for insight and advice on the correct dimensions to be applied to building a railbox box car. Any advice is appreciated. Are boxcars equal to the length of locomotives like gp38s ? thanks in advance ed

In an effort to convert my fleet over to 8 wide, does anyone have advice on how to build the front of this train in an 8 wide form. Thanks in advance, Im asking as this seems to be a challenge that no one in the community has taken on yet. Ed