theozboy

Hi everyone, apologies if this is in the wrong section, but I have a Lego Technic collection that I am considering selling as I am moving to Canada in the near future if all goes well. In an ideal world I'd love to keep it, despite not having used it in a good 4 years or so due to new jobs/houses/hobbies and life getting in the way generally. I'm not sure I can see myself coming back to Lego in the near or middle future and as I'm moving away and the money sure would come in useful at the moment - it's not cheap, moving to another country! Now, as I said i'd love to keep it, but storage in England is an issue - not much room at families houses to store it and I'm already planning to take a crate of my essentials and don't think it'll fit - so selling it might be the best option for me at the moment. So that explains a little of the background, now on to the question of value and if someone would be interested in buying the whole collection - see below for a breakdown of what I've got. Ideally I'd like to sell as a whole, but I appreciate that if I return it to sets it'll be worth more, but time is a problem. It's currently all sorted into 3x drawer systems and a few cardboard boxes of tyres, long beams etc. It's worth noting that I have a lot more PF than is listed for each set as I bought a lot more so that I can build Jurgens Ultimate 42009, PF Backhoe Loader V2 and Link Belt 250X. According to Rebrickable, which should be a pretty accurate, the collection of 9 sets is worth £1,500 and there is another £800 worth of 1,329 parts, totaling £2,500. It should be fairly accurate as each time I bought a bunch of stuff from Brick Link I imported the stuff I bought into Rebrickable to keep track. I can forward the complete list if someone is interested. I have all the instructions, but no boxes for any of the sets. I think that there could be a couple of other small sets that aren't listed below but will be in with all the other bits. Please let me know what you think it's worth and if someone is interested in buying the whole collection? 42006 Excavator 9394 Jet Plane 9397 Logging Truck 42043 Arocs (Currently Built) 8053 Mobile Crane 42009 Mobile Crane Mk II (Plus enough PF to make Jurgens Ultimate 42009) 42008 Service Truck 8263 Snow Groomer 8110 Unimog Hopefully this link will work - https://www.dropbox.com/s/54ck6uemtjuts05/2014-07-20 19.06.30.jpg?dl=0

I'm starting a new job and having to move away. The new place I'm moving too is temporary and a lot smaller than my current place so I am unable to take any of my parts collection with me. I am going to take my built 42043 and built Jurgen's Zorex with me. My question is do I need any of the extra parts to make the 42043 B Model?

Thanks, I'm got a new job as an agricultural engineering lecturer, I've been an agricultural engineer for the last 15 years and need to a new challenge! Might well be able to use lego technic to demonstrate engineering principles too!

Spot on Jim, that's perfect. Thanks very much. Pretty sure I won't need those parts but I can look them out before I pack away my parts. Thanks very much.

3M make a product specifically for removing adhesive residue, just Google it. It's great stuff and doesn't harm plastics. I've used it on all sorts of stuff, just squire a bit on and rub off with a clean dry bit of rag.

Zerion is how it's pronounced I'm pretty sure, at least here in the West Country of England!

Most trailer steering is accomplished by either steel cables or steel rods that are attached to a turntable on the 5th wheel. A small wedge shaped piece sits just to the rear of the king pin which engages in the slot on the 5th wheel. As the trailer twists on top of the 5th wheel the wedge is turned, pulling on one rope or the other which is connected to the wheels. Normally wholly mechanical. Or the wheels are just floating and the castor of them makes sure that they follow the vehicle track. If this system is used then there is quite often a lock out to lock the wheels straight ahead for reversing. For heavy loads such as your crane then I would expect it to be of the positively steered type. My experience is from a couple of years ago when I was an hgv mechanic, there may well be electronic versions now but I doubt it, as the trailer wouldn't be able to be used on any truck, as most trucks wouldn't have the electronics as standard to supply the data to the trailer. Also the trailer would need some sort of power on board to power any hydraulic system to steer the rear wheels. Hopefully I've explained this well enough for you to understand!

Have received my bucket, I've just temporarily fitted it to my copy of Jurgen's Zorex excavator, I had a grab on it so need to refit the large LA and figure out some linkages. Thought I'd share a couple of quick photos with it on. I plan to fit it properly tomorrow and take some more photos showing the range of motion and to test it properly.

Finally had some time to do a bit more, hopefully I'll be able to finish it in time. My new servo motor arrived today, so that had been fitted and works brilliantly. Spent a good few hours yesterday evening fitting a centre diff and remounting the xl motor. Took a lot of revisions before I had a satisfactory drive train. I've also made an auto valve, inspired by dot technics one on YouTube. Now on to working out the cutting units, the mock up I made was 2 studs too long and not wide enough by 2 studs, nearly right!

I've been meaning to make a model of one of these for a while now, we use them at my work for cutting sports fields. This competition is the perfect reason to do it, hopefully I can get it completed in time! The real machine - https://www.dropbox.com/s/l5l6zkpjqmid675/LT324A.jpg?dl=0 It's going to have an XL for drive, servo steering, M motor for spinning the cutting reels and an M for an auto valve for the pneumatic lift and lower. I haven't gotten very far yet, but have managed to get the wheelbase and widths right, need to build the rest of the chassis and come up with a design for the cutting heads. Rear steering axle is a slightly modified unimog axle, there's plenty of strengthening around the front axle to do. Not sure how I'm going to get drive to the cutting cylinders yet, the real one is all hydraulic and that isn't possible, but I should be able to work something out I think.

Made quick mockup of a cutting head, it doesn't seem too bad, but haven't made the cylinder inside yet. The quick pneumatic lift I made lots it fine, the front ones will be little more tricky tho. I will have to measure the real ones when I'm back at work to see how close I am with the cutting head I've made, it looks about right to me but could be well off! Thanks ffor the advice with the motor, I'll have to rethink my XL motor placement and put a middle different in, there should be plenty of space!

The real machine is hydrostatic with individual wheel motors, so yes, it's AWD. I was going to have just 1 XL powering both axles and have a drive shaft between both axles, but I may change that and have a motor per axle so I don't need to worry about a diff between the axles. Or I may make it an LT322 cos that's only 2 wheel drive! The only lego tyres wide enough for the front wheels are power pullers, so I scaled it from that. The real machine is fairly small, so although it's 1/6th scale, it won't be much bigger than Jurgen's PF backhoe, which I bought the power pullers for. I'm hoping I won't have too many issues with the size, this is my first proper MOC and it's proving to be a bit of challenge already! I may have bitten off more than I can chew...

Evening all, thought I would show you all my first proper MOD and ask for some ideas and opinions. Please forgive the odd colours on the body, need to order more panels! I spent ages looking for dump truck to go along with my 8043 (and the new 2H Volvo loader when its released) but could't find anything I liked the look of until I saw 9397 and figured it would be a good base for one. I've fitted an XL for drive and 2 M's, one for steering and the other for the dumping. I've also used Designer Hans double drive twin wheel mod too. So I need a bit of help, not sure how to finish the front top of the body, I want ideally a smaller verision of the black bit below. Or do any of you have any ideas how to make the lip some other way? And I need to make a tailgate somehow, but a normal 5x11 panel doesn't properly, any ideas without using lots of 5L beams to extend it either side? I'm pretty happy with it so far, have got lots more things to do yet - need to remake the cab steps, would like to improve the bonnet, might fit the V8 engine from 42009 (which I have remade into my Ultimate 8043) and going to improve the mudguards at some point. I might have another look at how I have fitted the dump body, not sure if it sits a bit too high from the chassis?

That's epic! Don't post much (if at all!) but thought I would for this one... love it :)

I'd love to see a flagship tractor. All the other tractors TLG have done so far have been mid range models and I think a 1500 piece or so RC flagship would be mint. Lots of modding opportunitys building implements, you've only got to look at the kit that people built for the unimog!

Very nice model, I reckon this one will be getting my vote. Playability looks spot on

Some photos of my working place, the coffee table in the living room! It's not ideal but the best I can do in my small house. I just finished Jurgens Tarantula Trial truck using my freshly sorted parts. It took me about a week of evenings to sort my 10,000 parts... I did not enjoy that experience I can tell you... However, I built Jurgens truck in probably half the time it would have took me from the old storage setup - the boxes of 42009, 9397, 42006 and 8110! I'm in the UK and got the storage boxes from a place called Big Dug - http://www.bigdug.co...cabinet-pp14799 £15 each for the smaller ones and £20 for the larger ones. I got 2 small and 2 large ones, one smaller one has got gears and pins in, the other has all my PF in. The large ones have liftarms and other bits in, all of my parts fit comfortably in them with a bit of room for expansion. I would well recommend them.

As this is my first proper mod, i've found i've got a lot to learn and an awful amount of respect for the lego designers and moc'ers! It was hard to know where to start with it all, so I ended up building the dump body, then had a go at the chassis, this building from the inside out is tricky... I had to persuade(!) some parts cos I didn't want to strip loads to fit a part cos i'd probably forget how it went back together! I thought I had braced the gears sufficiently but evidently I haven't as its the gears slipping for the LA and drive. Was pleased with how the steering worked tho, used a worm drive meshing to a clutch gear and it works really well, need to speed it up a touch tho, have used a 20 and a 10 tooth bevel gear to transfer the drive 90 degrees from the worm. What do people think is the best gear sizes for the drive, i've used a 8 and a 24 tooth for a 3:1 reduction and I feel its a bit slow, but then don't want to speed it up too much and loose torque. Biggest problem I need to fix at the moment tho is figuring out a way to drop the drive down without using 2 8 tooth gears which tend to slip. Might move the drive shaft from under the XL to the side of it, then drop it with some 16 or 24 tooth gears. The gear reduction is currently done in the gearbox.

Nice looking MOC there, looks like I've got a long way to go before mine looks as nice as yours! I quite like the proportions of mine, so probably won't widen the cab or bonnet, might widen the dump body by a stud or 2. Need to really rework the gearbox tho :( I used 2 8t gears to drop the drive down under the XL motor and they tend to slip when trying to drive around. Also the gears for the body tip LA tend to jump... would be better with 2 LA's but dont think there will be enough room. I think I will end up stripping it all down rebuilding it... oh well, cheaper than buying more sets I suppose! Its a whole lot trickier building your own than following legos instructions. Next must do thing is some kind of set of drawers for organising my parts, fed up of spending longer hunting for that last UJ I know I've got somwhere!

That looks pretty much spot on, quite often a rack and pinion is used to move the bucket arm in and out. Also in a rope excavator like that one they have a rope operated bottom dump bucket too.

I've added a front light bar pinned to the exsisting orange cab peice, which you can't see and an extra orange beacon light bar to the roof, which you can. You can just see the extra ram and valve I've added for a prototype tipping mechanism. I want to make it a 3 way tipper, but am struggling with how to do it with the limited parts I've got! Has anyone got a list of the bits I might need to order for the 3 way tipper? I've only got one other set to take parts from - 8263 Snow Groomer. I don't want to mix the sets up too much so have been using it to try and figure out how to do it then ordering parts, however this approach is tricky because the Snow Groomer has a fairly limited stock of bits and peices. Ideally I was thinking of mounting the bed on ball joints, as this is how the real ones I've seen do it, but I don't know if a part like this exists in lego... I'll add some more photos tomorrow, the flash needed due to the light in my front room reflects something terrible off the bricks...

Well I recieved my parts from brick link today so have built up my extending boom for the crane. I'm not entirely happy with it, I think the design could be better, it robs the crane of a little too much capacity I feel. Hopefully some people can come up with some suggestions to lighten it and improve things somewhat. I'll let the photos do the talking from here... http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f261/theozboy/Unimog%20Extending%20Crane/DSC_1137.jpg It improves the distance away from the truck you can pick things up, I would have liked 2 rams back to back but I feel the weight would rob the crane of pretty much its whole capacity without major modification to the rest of the crane. I like the elegance it too much to beef it up... Come on TLC when are you going to produce longer rams? Retracted Extended

If lego were to make a electric pneumatic valve, it most likely wouldn't be based around the current valve and motor. It would probably be a soleniod, as a soleniod is just an electromagnet and an iron rod which would be connected to a linear valve. Much smaller simpler design all together. I just wish they would hurry up and make it along with a longer ram... just imagine 8043 (the current excavator?? Is that the number!?) with RC pneumatics! Would be absolutely incredible!

I've made a prototype extending boom, am waiting on parts from bricklink to finish it. I started before seeing that one of the 8110 prototypes had an extending boom. mines made pretty differently to that one, its not a very elegant design, it works tho, bit heavy for my liking really. I'll be posting photos and asking for advice to improve it when the new cylinder turns up to test it properly.

I agree, as I only have 2 sets at the moment, the c model of a cheap set would be ideal for me, as I would buy it especially. The only thing that might concern me is how to make sure that only the parts in the set are used in each MOC, to make it fair for everyone.