Foremast Jack

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by Foremast Jack

  1. Foremast Jack

    WIP British Frigate

    I really don't think there's enough information here to rightly say. What I can offer you are the measurements for an atypical British frigate. (These dimensions are from the HMS Surprise.) Beam (that being the width): 32ft (10m) Height (of rig): 130ft (40m) Length (on deck): 135 ft (41m) Length (@ waterline): 114ft (35m) Now those are the dimensions in non-LEGO terms. If we take a bare-bones minifig to represent a standardized height (that height being 6ft (2m)) then when we lay him/her down on his/her back we see that he/she comes to just short of six studs in length (not factoring in any other height adding accoutrement, i.e. head-wear, epaulets, etc.). Therefore, I think it's safe to say that a scale of 1ft:1stud is a very firm basis to hold to. So with all that, I think the most accurate dimensions would be something like 30-32 studs across. That is quite a bit, and I think it should be noted that there are VERY few, if any, examples of people using a strict scale for building. LEGO is all about representation. So keep 19 studs for the beam. You just need to make sure the other dimensions are proportionally accurate. [i.e. 19 stud beam; 69 studs long (@ w/l); 78 studs high (the height here being to the mast tops); ~11 studs high (from the w/l to the weather deck). ] If you have 17 from keel to weather deck that sounds about right. I'd say stick with what you got, and she'll only get better. _____________________________________________________________ edit: changed typical to atypical for fear of pain inflicted by flaky pastries!
  2. Foremast Jack

    [Tutorial] Sailing ships interior

    It is a requirement of Eurobrick Forums, but seeing how it was one post, borne out of ignorance, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Just make sure everything's up to par from here on out, and I'm sure all will be well.
  3. Foremast Jack

    Lost Glory

    I was going to ask you to post a picture showing the exact way all those clips and things are assembled so I could maybe work on a full model in LDD, but then I realized that you're using the flex tubes as a major component. Those damn things are so annoying to manipulate in LDD, so I may not try it after all.
  4. Foremast Jack

    Frigate in progress

    Ooh. Very nice! I like how you're addressing the issues I was having with "tapering" the transition from one to two studs. Keep up the good work! I might just have to go back and redesign my ship again.
  5. Foremast Jack

    Lost Glory

    Sebeus, you must stay very busy, to continually come up with new and intriguing techniques whilst keeping us hanging on the edge of our seats awaiting updates for previous projects. I can imagine you having created some sort of brick-dispensing apparatus that straps to your chest. I see you walking about the house just randomly building things here and there.
  6. Foremast Jack

    Flying Dutchman WIP

    Unless I'm mistaken his first version had sails, so I can't see why he wouldn't, at the very least, use those same ones again; if not make something even better!
  7. Foremast Jack

    Lost Glory

    So we'll call the second Sebeus' Floating Upside-down House Technique! For the first technique I wonder if one couldn't build an inner-bulkhead behind the outer so the gaps weren't so obvious. Just wanted to say how much I enjoy your name Frank. It always makes me laugh. There's nothing better than a good pun... except maybe a good woman...and fresh fruit, but you get the idea.
  8. Foremast Jack

    Frigate in progress

    Oh I really wasn't expecting you to take the bowsprit all the way down. I don't think anyone actually has yet (not that I've seen at least). I was just sharing some naval knowledge. As for the prow design, if you're so inclined, take a look at this thread I started the other day. Perhaps you could be the one to confound the wise.
  9. Foremast Jack

    Lost Glory

    I like the first one's look a lot. But the down-side of it that first came to mind, as you point out, is all the little gaps. I don't think I could bring myself to use such a technique. Although it does work quite nicely for a floundering vessel. So perhaps you could patent the technique as the de facto requirement for drowning craft in all future MOC's. The second one looks pretty good as well, but I think the first has a better shape overall. Since the one is so good, the other looks worse than it actually may be. But perhaps worth it ultimately regardless. As for the technique's name: I should think it to be common knowledge that if you want to name a discovered something after yourself you have to do so in Latin, to avoid any allusions to vanity and pride. So, if I decide to make a shipwreck I'll be sure to reference the use of Modus Navum Flectere Sebeum. p.s. You can't call two, separate and distinct techniques by the same name. So you need to distinguish them in name somehow.
  10. Foremast Jack

    Frigate in progress

    Most likely you have not enable the "extended mode" of LDD. To do so, I'd suggest to check this thread.
  11. Foremast Jack

    LDD H.M.S DIANA

    Looks much better! You'd better re-size those photos though, or Admiral Croissant is going to smack you down with his Croissant of Rebuke! You can buy bricks here at Bricklink.
  12. Foremast Jack

    WIP British Frigate

    Ummm well I guess that depends how wide the ship is. (I'm assumed here the "beams" you're talking about are the beams that run the width of the ship.) On an actual frigate you have a row of stanchions just inside the bulkheads and then a row running down the middle of the ship (in line with the masts). Let's pretend your ship has a beam of 24 studs. To be accurate you'd have 3 rows of stanchions running the length of the ship. One would be centered (in line with the masts or running right along the keel-line), so 12 studs in. The other two would be something like 4-5 studs in from the outer bulkheads. However, I think you really have to just put them where they are needed in order to make sure you have the support you need.
  13. Foremast Jack

    Frigate in progress

    Yes the prow is that thinner part of wood at the front of the ship that the figurehead sits atop. (It doesn't technically hold the bowsprit. The bowsprit actually passes through the upper deck, at what is called the knighthead and is attached to the foremast at the foremast step.)
  14. Foremast Jack

    WIP British Frigate

    Whilst the pictures are a little blurry I think they look quite nice. This one above I particularly like. They look very realistic. I think I should like to see a photo from head-on. Keep up the good work.
  15. Foremast Jack

    Frigate in progress

    I'm with Sebeus here. You should think about maybe removing one mid-section. Whilst a length truer to scale would call for something more akin to 7-8 mid-sections, one must keep in mind that the pre-fab hulls don't provide enough beam to be historically accurate. So to counter the lack of width one must shorten the length. That being said, I'm personally a big fan of cramming as much historical detail in as possible; so if that requires a disproportionate length in order to accommodate it, I say leave it long. ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Just took a closer look at this picture. If you end up sticking with this design for attaching the prow to the bow you may want to think about thinning the prow to a single stud in width. (Gives it a more proper look, in my opinion.) p.s. you need to resize photos to 800x600 maximum.
  16. Foremast Jack

    LDD H.M.S DIANA

    She looks pretty good for a first ship. I think there are a couple areas that could use improvement. Namely, the bowsprit is a little to steeply angled (should be more parallel to the deck). Also, I think you should look into perhaps using smaller, brick-built cannons on the quarterdeck due to the limited space there. Are you thinking about building her in real life?
  17. Foremast Jack

    [Tutorial] Sailing ships interior

    I would point you towards the Index. Number III is tutorials. There's pretty much any and everything you could ever wish for to make a pure, slab-sided hunk of perfection.
  18. Foremast Jack

    House-of-Pirates

    I'm not trying to take away from this beautiful piece of work, but it doesn't really strike me as "pirate." I mean it has pirates in it. It seems however that they should be raiding this house more than living in it. Regardless of whether I think the pirates are out of place or not, doesn't in any way effect how much I like the string of drying fish and the creepers on the side of the house. A great find indeed! I am curious to see what is going on under that overhang on the back side of the house. Seems to be at least a boat of some kind.
  19. Foremast Jack

    Kraken Attack

    Very clever MOC, to say the least. I am curious though, where are these "challenges" posted? I'd be interested in participated in thought if not in deed.
  20. Foremast Jack

    Flying Dutchman WIP

    Yeah, I noticed that too. I think though once you finally get the Dutchman done you should, at least, as a sort of celebratory gesture, get Captain Jones. (you're version really isn't bad at all. He's quite recognizable, but you should have the real thing, in my opinion at least.)
  21. Foremast Jack

    Flying Dutchman WIP

    Might I ask what that crate type object that Drunky is standing beside is? p.s. All the names made me laugh.
  22. Foremast Jack

    Friendship hairpieces good for Pirates?

    I happened to be at the store today and remembered it's my "niece's birthday". Now to find some paint.
  23. Foremast Jack

    Starting the design of Queen Anne's Revenge

    That's LDD.
  24. Foremast Jack

    What % of your Lego Collection is Pirate?

    How could he not like Star Wars?! (episodes IV, V, & VI at least )
  25. Foremast Jack

    Single Stud Ship's Prow?

    I think I've seen most every ship ever posted on these forums, but I can't ever recall seeing one using pre-fab hulls with a single stud prow. Since the hulls are designed for 2-wide pieces that's what everyone uses. I curious if anyone is aware of a way to taper it down to one.