Foremast Jack

____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ So I had a look at the two in LDD, and it does seem that the bowler is more oval than the top-hat; however, I think that if the bowler was cut down to what represents the band above the bill then the brim of the top-hat could be mounted flushly. (or near enough as to make it work) Thanks for the suggestion Omi.

To clarify since this thread was pulled from another: The topic of using heated water (~160degrees Fahrenheit) to manipulate "soft and pliable LEGO pieces" (e.g. the whip) was being discussed. I was looking to get some input from anyone who might have some experience or thoughts in general as to whether this technique could be employed to effect on pieces that are distinctly harder: i.e. the top-hat piece The desired result having added a curvature to the peak/bill. Resembling the beaver hat. (see reference photo below) My greatest fear being that manipulation of the peak/bill will distort the brim. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Hmmm... interesting thought. Option 2 sounds promising, but unless I'm mistaken doesn't the bowler hat have an oblong shape (oval) whereas the top-cat is perfectly circular? I think there would be an issue with alignment.

Thanks for the update. This is the first time I've actually read through this whole thread and I noticed your completely understandable concern with the slackness in your back-stays. Obviously to solve the problem you need to lay some canvas aloft and let her fill. That should straighten it out straight way. In seriousness though I should think that if you wait to tie the stays in last that you wouldn't need worry about anything else pulling the masts so as to slacken them. I did have a question about your bowsprit. I've seen ships use the 1x1's, 2x2's (as you have in essence) and the pre-fab pieces. I currently have the pre-fab's on a WIP of mine but I absolutely hate the variously ill-placed protrusions they have for attaching yards when used as a nominal mast. Whilst I hate this one aspect, I find the starting diameter and taper to be just right for the proportions of my ship. I'm inclined to use 1x1's but since they are employed in the yard-arms it doesn't seem right to use something of the same size for the bowsprit. I was curious if you had any apprehension using 2x2 sized pieces for yours? Seeing how she's a smaller sized boat and your current design looks a bit too bulky, to my eyes.

Yes, I am with Kurigan and Sebeus here. While I think tan to be the most accurate they also tend to be the most expensive. The brown colours work quite well and can be got at with a trifle less time and money. At the same time I think it's important to plan the deck colour(s) so that things placed in, on and around it are offset so as to be easily visible in pictures. A ship I'm currently working on will have brown decking (although tan would be more accurate) because a lot of the "paint trim" on the ship is already tan. Moral of the story: If you want tan and can afford and find it (and it looks good/fits the build) then I think you should get it.

These are all quite nice. I particularly enjoy the stairs for the council seats; and the walls of Minith Tirith have me in quite a salivating state.

I don't know. Just think of it as a great, bushy mane.

I love the seafood vendor's stall and the overturned apple-cart.

Nice cannon. I particularly like the kneeling soldier.

I see. I was quite confused for a moment.

I love that deep blue water, so entrancing. I wonder what form the treasure will take. Golden bananas perhaps?

The lanterns look good and windows look great! Keep it up.

I think you could just as easily argue that "pirates" should be in historical. But since pirates definitely deserve their own forum, and there was quite a bit of sanctioned piracy (as well as the normal kind ) during the Napoleonic Wars so I think it's in the right place.

While I have noticed what you're talking about, it has never bothered me since I'm a great fan of the Napoleonic Era. I think there are quite a few more piratical things being made than you realize. There are certainly quite a few ships that would satisfy the requirements in the ship index.

I saw a lion along the lines of what you've got there awhile ago in a castle MOC. The one I'm referring to was laying flatter to the ground. Yours looks good, but so did this other one. I'll see if I can't find a picture. ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Found it. It's a bit blurry, but still can be made out and replicated.

Great little MOC. Although the commander on horseback wouldn't have carried a shield while mounted like that it still looks great. No, the phalanx was a "trademark" Greek formation. It requires a spear to form and the "spear" that the Romans used was called a Pilum. It was designed to be thrown before advancing to within melee range for butcher's work with the gladius. The pilum was also quite intriguing in that it had a very narrow, elongated tip made of soft iron with a bulky, heavy handled shaft so that when it stuck in an enemy or the ground the handle would weigh down the tip causing it to bend. With the bent end it couldn't be picked by the enemy and thrown back at the advancing Legionaries.

Understatement of the century here! Maybe try a longer "lightsaber blade." I little easier to work with until you decide if it's worth going through the trouble of getting the flex tubes to work.

Ah, of course. I was thinking you had used 1x1 tiles under there. Thanks.

That's a lot of naked flames for your ship (which look great by the way). I just hope those beautiful sails don't catch fire.

Looks great Walt, even though it's a bit odd. I was curious if you wouldn't mind sharing with us how you manage the stone-work on the underside of the arch. Thanks.

Like everyone else here, I like the stern. It's ornate and festive without being over-active. I wonder if something couldn't be done about the gaps on those side, bay windows though. With the inverted slopes causing them to protrude that gap is quite noticeable, to me at least. Don't get me wrong, I think they look great. You just maybe need to find a way to fill the space a little. As to the whipstaff... Maybe I shouldn't have used "enclosed." I wasn't trying to convey a complete segregation from being "on deck." The bulkhead it was behind normally had an open space, like a window of sorts, connecting it to the deck, so the helmsman could see where he was steering the ship. There doesn't seem to be one on the Unicorn, at least that I can see. It could be between two of the ladder rungs, but it's hidden behind the gunwale. Doesn't much matter though I guess, since SuperSirLink is going to use a wheel.

I noticed this too, but I just took it as making the ship look more "LEGO."

I like the inverted bushes at the tops of the palms. It's also nice to see all "light flesh" minifigs. p.s. It's "prey", just so you know.

I think it's a giant pig's head...filled with a treasure of BACON!

I'm not sure I quite agree with you here. I'm nearly certain that the ship represented there as "16th century" is a Galleon (which did most definitely use a whipstaff). The spot where the helmsman is standing, while under the stern-castle, is not enclosed, from what I understand. I really don't know much about ships from this time period, but I'm fairly sure that the Unicorn would not be included. All that being said, I am inclined to agree with you since there's obviously no steering mechanism on deck. So perhaps there is a whipstaff somewhere in there. It just doesn't seem right to me.