Nikonissen

Supported your model last week. I really love your interpretation of this iconic steam engine. I will not be surprised if you reach 10K club 😄 Though, unfortunately, it seems to have gotten easier and easier over the years resulting in many 10K builds to become rejected...

Dude, thanks for the laugh! 💀

There is a fairly simple way of attaching a motor bogie on a 7 wide train. It works, but is not that stable. Here is how I did it on my Øresundstog: bottom_plates by NikoNissen, on Flickr The part used is 3176

Wow, that's huge! Congratulations - a bit (extremely) jealous that Talgo wants to fund the building of the train. Hope that your model will come out nice! I just use the old LEGO Magnets. But I see that you have used the expensive coupling piece. There is a cheaper part called 2920 on Bricklink. That is what I use, In terms of magnets, @dtomsen knows where to get some cheaper knock-offs. In terms of electrical system, I'd recommend Powered Up or Power Functions. Those are the most versatile and cheapest options. Yes you have to redesign your bogie, but why not just put in that extra time to create an overall better model - especially now that Talgo has accepted to fund it.

Such a nicely built model! I really like the way you made the ends on the passenger wagons!

I will try this solution out for my next Talgo project - which will hopefully be built before next year!

In a year, when everyone has each their own Talgo done and built IRL, we should do a meet-up and run all of them together and take some photos. I'll look forward to that ! :D

It is a longer and way more expensive processs to create the metal part of Lego (compatible) tracks. That was the main reason that LEGO moved away from the 9V in the first place - to cut down on costs. For the straight and curved tracks, it is basically "just" applying 2 long metal plates on top of the tracks. But for the P40 switch, they maybe had to do some wiring and place the metal points in a way that it will still be able to conduct the power without the bogie losing it while crossing the switch in either direction and not short-circuiting the system. Which means a lot longer and more expensive process to develop the tracks and a higher production price as well because of the bigger work it will be assembling the metal and plastic parts compared to the "simple" track.

Nice update! I'm very excited about your progress! Would there be space to replace the bogie with a real motor? Or is it too tight?

Apparently, I forgot to post a render that I made back in February of the whole train with the cab car, so here it is. I’ve modified the bogies now, so it looks more like the real thing. The big, long DBG rods are the ones enabling the train to tilt. I probably won’t implement that feature into this model, but still playing around with ways to create the angled sides, though I haven’t found a solution that is worth presenting…

Your build is very recognisable which is always a good sign :)) I think most people start 6 wide and get comfortable in that width before scaling up. 6 wide is the most economic and simple scale. 7 wide is technically a lot harder than 6 and 8 because of the uneven width. So keep on designing, try to build some of your models IRL, that is the fun part! And you will probably realise that some of the things that work digitally do not always work IRL.

Yes, now it's your turn to build one of your models IRL! :P You two are part of this big boom. Are you guys members of HispaLUG or another LEGO club established in Spain? It could give you opportunity to exhibit your models in the future, getting to know other LEGO fans from your country and get some inspiration from the experienced builders. Highly recommendable! The locomotive looks amazing, now the hard part is coming up: Getting the cars assembled and working in curves/switches.

Very cool diorama! At first I actually didn't notice the platform scenery shifting. But the moment that I did, I just realised how genius of an idea it is!

...Depends on how important it is for you that there is a LEGO logo on the studs ;) If it doesn't matter, it can be done way cheaper

It still looks amazing! I like how the big wedge piece at the front just does a very good job at creating the transition between the popped out windscreen and the main body of the train. Just one big piece creating a good-looking solution. Nice that it takes R40 curves. But i guess it makes a lot of sense that I see some of the bigger curves in the background ;)