Eurobricks Vassals
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About kopylov

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    LEGO Technic 42096 Porsche 911 RSR

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  1. @2GodBDGlory thank you! I will try minifigure rings
  2. Hi there! I am looking for something of a hulf-stud thickness to secure following connection. The ideal solution would be thin 2L liftarm, but it does not exist. So, I can use thin 5L liftarm which is way too long here So, I am looking for something small half-stud thick to put between the red part and the black liftarm to limit their travel. Maybe you know something that fits here?
  3. Good job! 👍 What is the purpose of rubber bands on front wheel hubs?
  4. I remember that episode. It is awesome
  5. It's already preloaded to the maximum, but it is still too soft. It works on this stage, but I am afraid that it will not work with the weight of the bodywork
  6. Thank you for the comments! @2GodBDGlory short answer is: it's too soft but there are ways to improve it. Now, as I mentioned before, I want to make some comments on the chassis. I like the chassis. I did a good rear suspension, I don't even want to change anything there. Also I like the transmission tunnel. I have found a good way of connection panels, so it is very stiff. By the way, whole chassis is very stiff. It feels like one solid piece. I almost like the front suspension. I like the design, but it is very soft. Some possible problems and solutions: 1. Pullback motors are too soft. I twisted for a crisp each of them before connecting to the wishbones, but they still work without enthusiasm and I think that when I mount bodywork on the chassis they will stop returning to the upper position without help. I have 2 possible solutions here. First solution is to put them more widely to reduce the length of the lever. The second solution is to engage some gears here. 2. The next possible problem is the height of the motor block. If it reveals that it interferes with the hood, I will have to do something with it. If I place pullback motors wider then I will have more space in the front to mount electric motors. So, the second problem will be solved automatically after solving the first problem. 3. The height of the battery block. If the battery block affects the car's look too much then I possibly will put it to the front. The steering rack eats too much space in the front, but if I manage to put the steering links under the body then I will have enough space in the front to mount the battery block.
  7. Hi there! I have got three new sets since last post, so we have a wider choice of details. I like the shape of the car that I built, but it was designed so badly that it was ready to fall apart in any second. So, I started a new one in this post I am going to present a chassis. The first idea was to imitate rear springs with steering links. Actually, steering links resemble only a look of rear springs and all the job is done by shock absorbers. To eliminate transverse play I attached a Watt's linkage to the axle (you can see it behind rear frames). Dodge Charger has torsion bar front suspension. To imitate this type of suspenstion I decided to use pull back motors. Front suspenstion has nonzero kingpin and castor angles. Also I have got two motors, so it will be powered up. I have decided to put motors in the front and battery block above the rear axis. I can't put it in the trunk because of length of wires. Later I will post some pros and cons of this build.
  8. Hi there! Does anybody know is Mindstorms Robot Inventor hub equivalent to the Powered Up one in terms of output voltage and current strength? I am trying to figure out will powered up motors work in the same way with mindstorms hub as with powered up hub (in terms of speed and torque) or not
  9. Sorry, but this frame doesn't reflect stud volume. The height of the brick is 1.2 stud, so the height is definitely more than 17
  10. It was so cool before implementation of commenters' suggestions
  11. Hi there! The first version of the hood. This black triangle is not a design idea - it is a shortage of white parts The second version of the hood. I had to pull details from the trunk for it Major update next time.
  12. Hi there! Now we have a roof! Also some reinforcement of the frame was done, now it feels more strong. Front view. Lights are openable. From above. New trunk and rear lights installed What's next: Hood and trunk lid
  13. Hello! There is an another update! I did a front and some shape of trunk with a bottom (there is some cargo in the trunk) Front features openable lights. I will show it later since I did not take a picture. This gold paper clip in the center of the car represents how should handbrake look like according to my girlfriend's opinion. What's next: I don't like the trunk, it would be redone. The vehicle frame is too flimsy and needs some reinforcement. Also I want to make rear lights in Dodge Charger 69-70 style
  14. Hi, everybody! There is an another update on this project. As I said last time, I wasn't satisfied with that engine. So, I've rebuilt it in more proper way. Now, this two gears connect engine with the drive shaft. Also, I've remade the steering mechanism. Now it is very simple and smooth. In addition, I've added 1 stud to the wheelbase. I would prefer it even longer, but I assume that I can't afford further extension because of shortage of lego parts. At last, I've added fenders and doors. I've mounted fenders at some angle and it looks very cool. Also, I've made curved doors that suits these fenders very much. I know that classic muscle car should have live rear axle, but I've decided to keep the rear suspension as it is, since I haven't yet came to an understanding of how I can make live axle properly. Next time I'm going to show you the front of the car and a prototype of the trunk.