Daniel-99

Hey! Good tests were made! And I am impressed with a max speed of your truck even with planetary hubs the motor made the car a fast beast! I wonder if your truck feels stable on a hight speed? I suppose that off-road tires and the lack of positive caster affect on the control. Does your receiver has an SVC system with gyro?

Yep, this is always good for RC models if you cover the bottom. Though it is impossible to 100% protect the transmission from the mud and dust (as it is done in real cars). Even with covered bottom, you will find some dirt and water inside your car coming from the wheels: mud from rear wheels will cover the car from the very back to the front end of rear wheels, while the front wheels (since you have AWD) will cover the whole cockpit. Thai is why I made realistic mudguards from a plastic bottle for my latest project (also my Falcon has a mud-protection in the front, to save the electronics from the flow of stones coming under the front wheels). Finally, even with all possible protections, regular dust will be a problem forever. I drove my cars on a dusty roads last summer and had to wash the whole car after each driving session. Such kind of dust is deadly for the plastic transmission. Yes they are, it is easy to find them and the quality is good. Also they are cheaper than the original parts. So they will serve well as plastic parts which need a periodic replacement. Indeed planetary hubs relieve the transmission, which will not happen with normal hubs. Also you have both big wheels and powerful motor, so I can not tell you if I it is possible to build a transmission strong enough to transfer all power from motor to wheels without planetary reduction. You will have to test it by yourself (though it is quite risky). What is the max speed of your trophy truck? I tried to calculate it from the video and it seems to be about 10-12 km/h. Such speeds I achieve with 1200 kv brushless motor and transmission with metal bearings.

I would say differently. It is possible to increase the ground clearance under the front axle by lifting the suspension (since it is independent). While the ground clearance under rear solid axle is fixed and require either bigger wheels or portal hubs to increase the clearance.

Hey! This is an interesting model indeed! Actually, it has several things is common with @Zerobricks universal 4x4 off-roader: Planetary hubs will last for long here, though they will fall into dust after extensive driving. In my builds I use Chinese version which can be disassembled and lubricated quite easily. Do you plan any future upgrades of your truck? I think it is worth upgrading the transmission with custom parts: metal bearings increase the mechanical level of a car dramatically from my opinion. Also if you are more aiming for speed and not for 4x4 off-roader, you might also enjoy wheel hubs with metal bearings (planetary hubs reduces the speed too much, and have a lot of unnecessarily friction). But this are only my thoughts, so keep up and have fun with your nice truck!

I found this video quite related to out topic:

1. I use carbon axles as well, they have been purchased at AliExpress. The quality is good. 2. I dont have the 3D model of the housing, and it`s designer sell only printed parts but not 3D models. I think this will be the best solution for Lego. Both hubs and beams will be great to use! Agreed! regular RC bring a bit of a mess into the cars. Though i love the fact that I can put components in the different places. It brings so much possibilities! Also it is easy to swap component to a new one, and upgrade your setup (it is easy to do since RC component are wide-spread). Finally, it is way cheaper than Buwizz products, and provide a lot more power. I wish they would do RC kits as well! Maybe we should make a collection of RC Lego cars to show the possibilities of the system, and after that contact CaDA.

Hello everyone! I want to share with you my Monster truck that I build for an outdoor winter driving. It has a lot things to improve, but even this imperfect build gives a lot of fun! Yes, this post is mostly not about technical aspects, but about the whole concept and the driving experience it gives! Some highlights: All wheel drive and steering Solid axle suspension with permanently locked differentials Planetary wheel hubs Strong transmission with metal U-joints and metal bearings Brushless motor 1000 kv 3S Li-Po for power 2 GeekServo for steering 120 mm RC wheels with great grip Removable body Together big wheels and powerful motor makes this Monster Truck a real beast. It has both torque and a decent speed. Planetary wheel hubs give enough reduction to obtain the precise control of torque (that is rather unusual for Brushless motors). All wheel steering with deferent steering modes (made as an option of my RC transmitter) bring more fun to the driving. It also increases the climbing abilities of the Truck (as it is shown in the video).

I came to Brushless motors in the same way. Firstly I tried to power my creations with 2x Buwizz 3.0 units. They offer the best solution for Lego purists, and yes, Buwizz bricks (v. 3.0) are way more powerful than lego. But I was unlucky to drive into a garden pool, so both Buwizz units drowned. After an accident decided to experiment with custom Electronics, since It was way cheaper, more affordable in Russia and has an RC control system instead of Buwizz. I teated two different systems. First one is called "Leshy" it was not strong enough to power 2 Buwizz motors: batteries start degenerate quickly after I apply full gas (single Buwizz 3.0 unit has the same problem). Second system is called "WIxy" and they play a role of a RC controller for Brush motors (PF motors). This mighty units together with 3S Li-Po can give a plenty of power, but PF motors can not handle than much, so they start overheating of a full gas after 2 mins. This gives me the understanding that I should use a 100% RC setup to avoid any losses of power. I see. A baja truck made by @FriedlS is a very special one. It is rather small and light, so there is not much load in the transmission, not much load to the wheel hubs, so Lego parts could work here. If you are willing to build a bigger truck, you will have to deal with extra weight, and the weakest point here are the wheel hubs. I am sure you will build the car that drives good mostly with Lego parts, even in 1:10 scale, but you should be ready to swap some parts of transmission in between each ride. That is why I use metal parts (cause I am lazy) ;-) I think we should start a new topic all together with @FriedlS to discuss Brushless motor usage and related stuff. This way some other people might join our discussion!

Agreed! I am pleased with cars and do not need more. I love the bodywork of current lineup, but I am missing the functionality, a great example of such set is 42125 with a big hole instead of normal floor, interior and so on. Moreover I am frustrated by the technical solutions in the chassis. For example 42110 is a great set with many interesting functions, but it can not basically be motorised (in a straight way) due to the wobbling suspension arms. So I had to rebuild the whole chassis to get a working RC version of Defender. Current models are the great display pieces, but they are far from being technically and mechanically well-engineered. I am looking forward for the Lego sets developed by LPE Power (https://www.youtube.com/@nicjasno). Am I asking too much from Lego? But I am ready to pay for each brilliant technical solution is LPE`s cars!

Hi, @Krxlion! I have neither a qualification of an electrician nor any experience with RC cars world, and I started using brushless motors in Lego builds just 3-4 months ago, so do not judge me strictly if I am mistaken ;-) Melting axles is the first potential problem on a list. These problems usually happens one after another, so you will not face problem 5 on a least before you have not solved problems 1-4: Problem: melting axles. Solution: lubricate the transmission with a silicone grease. Problem: axle twisting. Solution: Build the drive shaft with axle connectors Problem: CV-joints and U-joints breaking. Solution: Use metal U-joints compatible with lego Problem: Gear cracking (especially an angular gear to the differential). Solution: tighten the connection with plastic or metal washers Problem: braking of gear connection points. Solution: unload the transmission 1) use planetary hubs (for 4x4 cars is the best solution) 2) Use 28:12 gearing in differential 3) Use smaller (and lighter) wheels 4) use a weaker motor The motor you use is way overpowered! One AFOL in Russia tested motors with similar strength in his Lego cars and it was impossible to overcome its power! Plastic transmission could not basically handle such power. I am using A2212 1000-1200 KV motors. They have enough strength to overcome 3 Buwizz motors. I mostly build fast cars with a total weight under 2 kilos, and this motors bright them to live easily, though I have to deal with problems 1-4. I can not tell you anything about Pinions, since I bought the whole RC setup from another Russian AFOL. He develops custom 3D printed parts for Lego cars. Here is a link to his original video: As you can see, he printed a planetary gear similar to one used in XL motors. So I dont have to deal with Pinions at all. Instead of that I have to lubricate gears regularly. If you will need some details from the video you could ask me for translation and explanation! After we get ourselves a right motor and solves all problems from the list, we should figure out our goals: what do we want from our Lego car with RC motor? My answer is the following: brushless setup beats all existing PF and C+ systems, the best ways to build cars with brushless system are presented by RC cars industry, but we will never achieve the same level of performance with Lego. My technical requests for Lego RC cars are the following: speed of 10-15 km/h for fast cars (like trophy trucks) and 3-8 km/h for 4x4 off-roaders. Faster cars will not survive crashes, and it will be very hard to control even with physical proportional control provided by GeekServo (due to the wobbling in the steering system). Slower cars are too boring to play with. Further, I wish to make my cars as durable as it possible. Here I mean not the durability of the chassis and body, but the wear resistance of transmission and Lego parts during regular driving sessions. To achieve the goal, I use custom parts with metal bearing made by few AFOLS from Russia. Also I lubricate all the gears which spin fast. Most important parts here are the wheel hubs with metal bearing since the whole weight of the car sits of this fast-spinning parts. I was lucky enough to buy a few sets of custom hubs both with metal bearing and metal U-joints adapted to them, so I can build FWD and AWD fast cars with them. For off-roaders, I am using planetary hubs from AliExpress, because they are not glued from the fabrics and can be easily taken apart, lubricated and glued into a single piece. Also they are wide-spread and cheap. For the next level of improvements, I use metal U-joints and carbon axles in the transmission, 5x7 frames with metal bearings (to install differentials), which avoid any cracking in the transmission. To sum up, extra power and extra speed requires many NON-Lego-ish solutions and it will cost you a lot. So if you want yourself a fast and durable RC car for every day, you would better by an RC car. But if you are looking for a serious development process, if you like test your cars and improve them to the max level, then this is for you! I wish a good luck to every person who is building Lego cars with Brushless motors!

By the way, when the planetary hubs appear, one made a modification of Madoca`s floating front differential with planetary hubs! (I will look for a reference, but i definitely sae several projects on YouTube). I think this modified version will fit greatly to Bronco (RC version).

Thank you! It seems to me that there is only a small group among AFOLs that enjoy brushless motors. Do you have any new projects with you brushless motor, by the way?

Rather unusual RC model. It is interesting to see how you managed to squeeze all electric components inside ;-) Though this car seems to be a little bit uncontrollable due to the fast gear and negative caster angel. Good experiment! I guess it would be cool to see two or three of RC models made from Monster Trucks racing agains each other!

Sorry if I am mistaken, but the designer of the front wheel drive of this type was Madoca! See, for example, his Dacoma: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-25520/Madoca1977/dacoma-4x4-redux/#details

It looks stunning! The development process was an interesting thing to look at as well! Hope to see it in action, to conclude if all the technical solutions work together. P.S. I made my version of Trial Unimog last year (see the post on EB), but it looks like a toy comparing to yours!

I was thinking about automatic transmission for quite a while. Here are my thoughts: If you want to build a playable and durable RC Lego car, then you should avoid unnecessarily gears, giving as much power from motor to wheels as possible If you want to build a "realisitc" prototype, then it should have an "automat": a robot, that shift gears depending on the velocity and torque of wheels, detected by special sensors... Mechanical automatic transmission is not that realistic nowadays

The perfection has been achieved with this car! Well done!

Sweet truck! It would be cool to see its performance in the snow.

This model is so good, that I can not let myself to skip this post! Both chassis and bodywork are the best examples for Lego C+ RC cars. Did you tried to build a front independent suspension as the real in the real car?

Nice! By the way, I am using the same Brushless motor in my latest creations. Though I don`t have a baja truck yet.

This is my contribution to the Tuck World. I made RC crawler from Unimog U4000. Link to EB post:

Great car, clever modularity and nice post! Wish to see more mods of Hilux!

I checked all hidden text and photos, I love the way you were able to fit all RC stuff in such scale! Unlikely I have no Instagram account, so I will wait for a longer video of youtube \ Eurobricks \ Rebrickable. P.S. I am using Brushless motors in my latest MOCs (I made a post a week ago) as well ;-) In combination with planetary hubs they bring Lego cars to the whole new level!

Awesome car! I am very interested in RC version of this car, do you have a video with driving tests \ review?

Yes, I am slightly mad at fast lego cars. My Unimog is build in 1:18 (approximately), so the top speed in real life is 8 km/h x 18 = 144 km/h and it is not realistic, but it is fun to play outdoors! The low gear was build especially for trial purposes, in order to obtain a good control over the truck. As I understand "automatic" gearbox in real live does not mean "mechanically automatic", there are plenty of sensors of speed, torque and so on.. and a smart controlling system that swiches the gears (of NORMAL gearbox). Modern automatic gearboxes use the same principle with planetary gear several times to archive wide range and small steps.