Keegan Pilling

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About Keegan Pilling

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    Technic
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    42124

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    Small RC Technic vehicles

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  1. Why did you use the 4L bar? Couldn’t you just use an axle with a 6590 bushing, with the + shaped side up against the grey shaft connector? In my experience that still allows full movement of the driving ring while also allowing for different shaft lengths :)
  2. So basically, you need enough resistance to keep the driving rings engaged, but not so much that a motor can’t switch them? In saying this, is it also safe to assume that you don’t want any extra friction on the driving ring? Meaning that applying constant pressure with a 6641 changeover catch is not an option. I’m assuming you don’t have any of the orange Chiron shifter rings? Your best bet might be in eliminating the driving rings.. although that might not work, depending on the application. How much load will this have to handle? Maybe some pictures would help. Edit: just looked back in the thread, is this the same gearbox you were working on in August?
  3. What about one of these setups? If you want a 1:1 ratio without having to offset the red and yellow axles by 1/2 a stud, you will have to add a bar underneath the 2L liftarm, as done with the light blue mount in the second version. https://bricksafe.com/files/Keegan_Pilling/designs/E16C9D06-B5DA-42ED-9367-5FA000851DAF.jpeg
  4. Does the output from the two gears have to be in that position? If not, you could just put a 90 degree gearbox (two 12t bevels) on the end of the axle driving the worm gear. Even if you need that output directly below the gearbox, couldn’t you just drop down the drive from the worm gear input with two or three 16t or 24t gears, and then have a 90 degree gearbox there?
  5. Would something like this fit the constraints of your build? Just replace the pneumatic valve with a red shift lever (or linkage to connect to one) Also, if you don’t have your worm gear offset by half a stud, you can replace the two pinions with 8 tooth gears, saves a lot of space and works better with Technic’s odd lengths. Credit goes to Sariel http://sariel.pl/2008/12/pneumatic-autovalve/
  6. I just keep redesigning a component until it check all the boxes of what it’s going to be required to stand up to (fwd-bwd strain, left-right slop, not bending under torque, and the ability to function under the vehicles/loads weight without bending or flexing. I would recommend making a mental (or physical) list of the forces you want your component to stand up to and taking all of the points into consideration every time you add a part. Also, if you’re using lift arms (Technic beams) I would recommend connecting them with friction (black) rivets, rather than the frictionless as they have less play.
  7. I’m hoping some of you could help me out. I’ve been working on an RC telehandler MOC for the last few months now, and am (hopefully) in the final stretch of the build. I was first inspired by Eric Trax’ CLAAS Scorpion 756, but due to my lack of parts, as well as the limitations of LEGO motors, I wanted to make mine more compact, and hopefully just as functional. I have mostly completed the chassis, but am hung up on the arm. I am hoping to make the arm fit the scale of the rest of the build, meaning it would have to be 4 studs wide, and 4 (maybe 5) studs high, however, I can’t find a way to do this while also allowing the arm to extend another 26 studs, the length of the two 6114979 gear racks I’m planning on using for the extending part of the arm. On top of this, the arm needs to have some sort of mechanism for tilting the forks/bucket. This can be done either with a linear actuator, which would be difficult to incorporate as it would be difficult to fit a motor in the end of the arm (as Eric Trax did), or with an axle utilizing sliding gears running the length of the arm. The problem with that design is that I would like the axle to fit within the 2x2 confines of the extending arm, for a more uniform look. However, the only way to fit an 8 tooth gear on that axle would be to have it on the back end of the arm (which will be hidden inside the outer arm. This will add at least 2 studs of length onto the arm, which can be accommodated, but the 8 tooth gear would hit the bottom and side of the outer arm, rendering it useless. My other option is to use a pneumatic setup, as the hose can be partially tucked into the notch in the side of the gear rack elements, and fold back on itself as the arm retracts (much like the real thing). Unfortunately, I don’t have any 47225 cylinders, which would be optimal in this situation, I only own the pneumatic components included in the 42043 Arocs, which are either too long, or too small to serve any functional purpose. Both of these methods have their pros and cons, the pneumatic setup definitely being the easier of the two, but unfortunately it isn’t as accurate or as powerful as a linear actuator. Any and all thoughts and ideas are welcome and wanted, especially designs. Also, does anyone know when Brickshelf will be allowed people to create new accounts again? It says “currently disabled” beside the Create New Profile button.