P McCatty

Eurobricks Vassals
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  1. Performance aside, the pin & axle connectivity remains the same. However, where the CADA & Buwizz Buggy motors shine becomes evident in the studless ecosystem. The chamfers on the original motors require extra clearance.
  2. For anyone that may find these digital files useful, here is the download link. Just grab the zipped file. Feedback welcome. https://bricksafe.com/pages/PMcCatty/miscellaneous/downloads
  3. Just putting some final touches on these for anyone that may be interested. Full connectivity enabled. I'm not going to bother adding unnecessary details like buttons, USB port, etc. Out of curiosity, would it be best to share io files or a parts pack?
  4. Give yourself some credit! This is really well implemented. Reminded me of 8460 right away. So it looks like you have Drive, Steer, Outriggers & a Universal motor from the Buwizz Unit on the base. Then the Slew, Boom, Extend, Hook are operated from the Universal through a manual 4S gearbox in the superstructure. Very intelligent use of the clutches. I really like it. Do you have a video by chance? I can't quite make out the gearing from the XL & I'm curious to see how it steers with the M motor. I imagine that operating the Slew function from the Superstructure while it's rotating could be challenging, which is why I think that it was done from a secondary gear box (in the base) on 42082. But with the benefit of bypassing the need for another battery box in the Crane I think that's ok, especially for a model on this scale.
  5. +1. I'm still at 1985 LOL. Taking my time & enjoying all of it.
  6. One thing that has worked for me is using a game controller with an attachment to hold the phone (running the Brick Controller app). So you can operate the model with one hand by assigning the drive & steer commands to a single joystick. Some phones will have the screen dim (not lock) to save power, but the app still runs. Another option is also to reduce brightness. That frees up the other hand to film with a secondary device.
  7. Thank you! I had a ton of fun making these & trying to keep them as universal as possible. Right now I just have the main Chassis & I switch out the Logger & Dumper attachments as needed. I'm tempted to make another Chassis & link them all together as a road train. It's already super long with a single Trailer. And the thought of trying to reverse the whole thing makes my head hurt LOL. For the updated Claw Rig I'm experimenting with RC4WD Dirt Grabber Tires. They look much better, but I'll have to DIY some new inserts so that they can properly support the weight as the Truck is pretty heavy. The Buwizz motor is so powerful that I've been able to haul a loaded Trailer (approx 6kg total) up steep driveways & over uneven terrain quite easily.
  8. 1. It may also be a good idea to check the system for leaks. Sometimes the hoses (especially the older, tighter ones) can split near the connection points with repeated assembly & disassembly. 2. In your modification, did you perhaps reduce the mechanical advantage of the pistons somehow? That could be a contributor as well. With the increased range I'd find this unlikely though. 3. With a bit of trial & error, you could mount shock absorbers in the linkage to dampen the downward movement of the crane arm. This helps it to stay elevated even with a loss of pressure & as an added bonus, reduces the "crashing boom" effect.
  9. While ripping around with this Truck, the first thing that became apparent was that I had nowhere to put the objects I was picking up, since the Crane occupies the entire rear section. That's really where this Trailer idea came from. The most straightforward execution came in the form of a 3-Axle Turntable Drawbar set-up, using the built-in trailer hitch. I also went back to basics by keeping everything manual & making the design as simple as possible. The first thing I tackled was the suspension. One possibility was implementing live axles with shock absorbers. And with no gearing it would be less complex than a driven vehicle, but I figured there still had to be an easier way. I followed @Jennifer Clark's builds some years ago & I vaguely remembered a concept on pendular suspension. I quickly found it by revisiting the discussion of her All Terrain Crane. Maintaining ground contact was the main objective. The flex was surprisingly significant - the secondary objective then became preventing contact between the tires & the Frame. Stops were installed to limit the travel on the front axle. And a smooth guide rail directs the wheels underneath the Chassis at extreme steering angles or while being jackknifed, even if the suspension is already flexed. For the rear axles, since they are also connected side-to-side, the tandem acts like a rectangle with ball joints at the corners & the lateral pivot axis in the middle. The movement is therefore limited by the play in the connectors. During development & testing, the model would sometimes (annoyingly) roll away if the surface was uneven. The obvious solution was to use wheel wedges, as I sometimes did while my hands were otherwise occupied. But without a drivetrain, there was a bit of room in the axles to attempt an elegant (but simple) parking brake system. After some trial & error, I settled with a liftarm construct that initiates contact with the tires to apply friction, while the engaging lever pivots in a manner that locks the system in both the open & closed positions. Initially, the Drawbar was a simple A-Frame with a Steering Arm & Ball Joint pin at the end. After a few inadvertent detachments, a more heavy-duty solution was developed, maintaining 3 degrees of freedom. It is now strong enough to support a 3kg Truck by picking up the Trailer. The first Lift Stand prototype was a spring loaded swinging lever mechanism. With uneven terrain & various possible heights required for the hitch, a more controlled, adjustable deployment was required. The small Linear Actuator was perfect for this. Adding in Caster Wheels now makes for easy positioning. Finally, the length of the Drawbar is intentional because it improves maneuverability while in reverse. Shorter Drawbars are more sensitive to steering input as I found out in a frustrating series of trial & error exercises. The Logging section took shape as its own attachment because of the frequent need for removal to access the base trailer. Then came the idea of making a Dumper attachment. In order for this all to work, the Chassis had to be fairly universal. The switch can be made in 2-3 minutes with almost no disassembly of the base. Attachment points for the Logger were trivial. Coming up with a tipping mechanism for the Dumper in the available space was a lot more complex. Early prototypes involved the use of actuators. Complete solutions were developed for both Linear & Pneumatic options. Due in part to the weight of the Dump Bed (500g), neither actuator delivered sufficient performance (even with intermediate linkages) in order to lift any significant payload, specifically from the rest position where the required force is the highest. I finally settled on a crank based worm-rack sliding mechanism that works exceptionally well, reaching 45 degrees & with a payload capacity of 1.25 kg. At first I used a manual stop to keep the Gate in place. Eventually I figured the spring loaded concept that I originally had for the Drawbar Lift Stand was perfect for this application. There was enough room under the Dump Bed to install a shock absorber & corresponding linkage to lock the Gate. And it remains this way even when tipped, allowing only for manual release. The second option uses a 9L Link that attaches to the Frame which automatically releases the Gate lock when the Bed is tipped. When hauling logs, we always want to avoid fines on the highway & a tie-down system is essential. The Logger has 4 cable attachment points, so that ideally each log will be secured in at least 2 places. It was a little tricky to keep it all compact enough to enable ratchet release with a full load against the angle beams & also avoiding the massive suspension flex while strapped down.. This was a fun project to undertake & it's nice to step away from electronics for a bit. If you've read this far I would love to hear your thoughts & feedback. I was thinking of adding a Tanker & Flatbed options but there aren't too many playable functions involved with those. Instructions (for both) available HERE Feature Summary01. Springless Pendular Suspension 02. Lockable Parking Brakes on rear Axles 03. Adjustable Drawbar Lift Stand with Caster Wheels 04. Heavy Duty 3D Coupling 05. Jackknife capability 06. Easily Adaptable Universal Chassis 07. Logger: Ratcheting Tie-Downs x 4 08. Dumper: Max Tipping Angle 45 deg 09. Dumper: Max Tipping Capacity 1.25 kg 10. Dumper: Manual & Automatic Gate Lock Options More images below. PS. The Claw Rig shown in the video is an upgraded 6 x 6 version using a (much more powerful) Buwizz Motor for propulsion, along with many other improvements. I'll post about that later.
  10. Assuming the Servo has a perfect return-to-centre, it appears that you have a set of bevel gears for the change in direction towards the rack & pinion. If you have the Servo directly connected to the pinion you would be fine, but due to the bevel gears, your axle driving the pinion is 9 degrees offset. In a nutshell, having the Servo in that orientation requires an additional gearing stage to reverse that effect. The picture below is the quickest example I could think of since I've encountered this before. The intermediate axle is at 45 degrees and the steering axle at the rack & pinion is in sync with the Servo. Backlash is minimal. Alternatively if you're stuck with the gearing you have & you're (conveniently) using a Buwizz, you can move the steering curve up or down by a small amount to eliminate the offset.
  11. Aesthetics isn't my strong suit so I'll defer to others with more experience on that. With that said I like the way you enclosed the model. I bet you wish you had those 9L Links in white . If I could make one suggestion, it would be to revise the front suspension by using the 5L or 6L Steering Arms (with tow-ball sockets). The knuckle has much better security & you can also (vertically) brace the upper & lower arms with a connector for a solid overall assembly. I did an RC Mod of 8858 Rebel Wrecker a while back & the front wheels would routinely fall off using the original linkage, which is what prompted the switch.
  12. I really like that. Well done! With the V1 there is a slight angular offset (I'd guess maybe 1 or 2 deg) but it is within the tolerance of the parts. And it's easily stackable side by side if you use longer through axles. If you put 2 x 3L bars in place of the 3L axles, then put the 3L axle through that steering joint, would it be the same result? I don't have all of the parts in front of me right now. Either way, it appears that for a brick-built bracket on these cylinders, some derivative containing a 45 deg part orientation works well. Note also that V2 has exact operating stud lengths (22 to 34), whereas V1 & similar would range from 22.4 to 34.4 as there is a sqrt(2) offset between the blue pins.
  13. At the risk of bumping an old thread, while working on something unrelated I came up with 2 other solutions for connecting the 2 x 11 V2 Actuators end to end. I figure this might be great for a tipping bed mechanism. Hopefully someone can find either of them useful. Version 1 Version 2
  14. Quick question on the rear suspension. If you pull down, do the shock absorbers disengage at the ball joint (specifically at the axle connection)? I know it will be mostly under compression, but at an extreme tilt I feel like one side may slip out. I ask because I've run into that situation before using the 9.5L shock absorbers.