sed6

Here you go.

Now this is awesome! I have no use for large radius curves on my compact track, but these will really improve and increase design options for people who run R40.

Awesome, thanks!

Pursuit of Flight just needs 50 more votes to reach 10k! https://ideas.lego.com/projects/9f20e63f-79a7-4625-bb09-1b51a7b17842

Pursuit of Flight now needs just 50 votes to hit 10k! Check it out and go support it please. https://ideas.lego.com/projects/9f20e63f-79a7-4625-bb09-1b51a7b17842

This is fantastic! Are the door handles roller skates?

I don't know that I care if they are included. I'm happy to see almost any train released from lego. Thinking outside of Lego's offerings and more about MOC's...I've built my trains both with and without doors. In some instances they are a nice detail, like my in my 1900's loco and cars in others like my new EMD F7 they just wouldn't work. I also did a reskin of the 60052 cargo train locomotive into a CSX SD40 in which I removed the included doors to achieve a more realistic scale look. For me it's mostly a scale thing, a size thing and a color availability thing. If they look right, fit right and are available in the color I want then I'll include them in my MOC. I'd imagine the thought process is much the same at TLG when they are designing trains.

Wow, that is fantastic! I hope the show goes well. Keep us updated with some pics. I think the small clocktower is my favorite single design element. Is that original? How'd you make that gold border? Is Snottengen a real word or location somewhere?

Isn't the easy solution to this to simply remove the yellow throw lever? That's what I did on my layout because of the tight turns and long engine overhangs.

I like the clear roof! Can I see some pictures of how you did that?

How about the re-railer at the end of the track? Would anyone use that? I remember my old n-scale crossings had a re-railer built into them.

Excellent tip! I did just this and it worked for some axle/bearing combinations. For most it did not, probably because of tolerances. Eventually it became too big a hassle to keep the parts hot or frozen and I resorted to the hammer for the rest.

To clarify the cutting of the tabs, and to address how to do this without cutting the tabs... Looking at the picture above, the tabs are circled in red. Without the bearing mod the axles are trapped under the tabs to keep them from falling out. You can see with the bearings installed the axle wants to sit at the same level as the tabs. The tabs will the pinch the axle and prevent it from spinning. There are two solutions, cut the tabs off like I did or trim down the green areas. If you don't want to cut the tabs off, you'll need to lower the axles another 1mm or so to get them under the tab. This can be accomplished by trimming the two spots circled in green. Those are the two spots the bearings rest on. If you can trim those two spots 1mm down so the bearings rest lower, the axle will be lower and not pinched by the tabs. There are potential problems with that method. Trimming those two green spots down 1mm exactly isn't going to be easy. In my mind the only way to do it would be with a router and a jig of some sort. If you go too deep with that cut the truck could be ruined for this mod. Edit: I don't know if ruined is the right word. I'm counting on those shelves in green to be at the right height to hold the bearings. If you cut the green shelf too deep I suppose you could just move the bearing to the right depth and use glue and luck to hold them in the right place...

Indeed a press would have been great! As for mushrooming, not really. The lego axles are hardened so any mushrooming wasn't noticable. The tabs need to be cut because of the depth the axles need to sit. The bearings make the axles about 1.5 mm closer to the track, causing the axles to be pinched by those tabs and not spin, so they need to be removed. Their is a way to do it without removing the tabs, but it's a lot more work with more room for error. I bought the bearings on ebay and then the seller doubled his price after I ordered mine. However I included a screen shot above of three other sellers selling them in different size batches. Glad you all like!

That makes sense I guess, the 8 wide and longer mentioned confused me.

Interesting topic, I wonder how swapping sides provides anymore clearance?

I wonder if my design will help anyone who's trying to build 4 wide? Because of the gearing it does run a little slow, but I solved that by running it on three 3.7v 10440 lipos instead of six 1.5v AAA batteries. Now it speeds right along.

Good call on the new parts for certain areas. Curious what the total cost was?

Glad you all like! Here's an updated shot of the nose with the x1471 decal applied. You'll note that the lettering of X1471 and the yellow striping in the flying shield should be white, not yellow. That is a limitation of printing at home, you can't print white. I tried shades of gray but they didn't suit me.

Thank you. Yes 6 wide, plus the hand rails. I've got the LDD uploaded for you and linked to in my first post. I welcome anyones comments or criticisms.

I'm curious what the boxcar weighs. I just built a boxcar that's 10.8 ounces and wonder how that compares. Anyone able to drop one on a scale for me? Thanks!

This is definitely one of my simpler builds. It's nothing more than a reskin of the 60052. I chose the CSX scheme primarily because of the prevalence of blue and the excellent sticker set from The Sticky Brick for $8. This is my first re-skin attempt and it feels a little like cheating after the dozens and dozens of hours that went into my BNSF and my 4-4-0. That said, my goal wasn't something original. Rather I wanted badly to improve the toy scale looks of the original loco. In all it about 150 parts and ran about $15 including new side panels. Here's a link to the file on bricksafe if you want to build, modify or inspect my work. Hope you like! My Bricksafe Files

I found that funny too! I also used his stickers on my BNSF Loco and was happy both times. I like this loco so much I might build an unpowered dummy version to pull behind.

Anyone planning on 75222 Cloud City?

Time for another update. I recently got the bug to make a container crane to handle the containers on my Well Cars. Of course then I'd need a semi to haul them around. The semi driver and crane operator are not thrilled to be working while their coworkers slack off back at the office. As always my LDD files are on my bricksafe page for you to view. Hope you like!