CF 28

Eurobricks Vassals
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About CF 28

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    Technic
  • Which LEGO set did you recently purchase or build?
    42039

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    LEGO, cars, motorcycles, mechanical design, CNC programming.

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  • Country
    United States

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  1. Try isolating each electronic part. Turn the truck upside-down, plug 1 motor only directly to the battery box. Turn it on and use your hands to put a load on the tires. Does it have any power? Plug the other motor in by itself and try that one. If you have a bad motor it should stand out. If they are both weak like this that it has to be the battery box or the batteries themselves. I've heard of someone having a similar problem when using Kodak batteries, which I guess were low output. If both motors have good power like this then plug them both to the battery box and test it that way. If you're getting good results like this then it would point to the receiver.
  2. Sorry if this question has all ready been answered but... will this app control a buwizz 2.0 and an original s-brick simultaneously, to run 8 outputs to pf motors?
  3. Hello all. Here is my LEGO interpretation of a circle-track dirt Modified, which is popular in the United States. Several similar versions of them race under different sanctioning organizations, the most popular being IMCA and UMP. The car is a C-model of the 42039 "24 Hours Race Car", and thus uses only the parts from that set. 21 studs wide between the hubs, 23 at the widest part of the body, 50 long, and 14 high from the center of the wheels. Has the fake V-8 engine mounted toward the front, but fully behind the front axle, as in the real vehicle. Front suspension is independent double-wishbone, similar to the A-model's design. Rear suspension is a reasonably accurate approximation of the live-axle 3-link with panhard bar that is used in many (but not all) of these cars. Uses a "hand of god" style steering with the finger knob on the roof, but is also connected to the working steering wheel in the left-hand-drive cockpit. Thanks for looking!
  4. 42095 RC Stunt Racer for $50US. Listed on an auction site as "may be incomplete". Turned out to be 100% complete including box and instructions and worked perfectly.
  5. Eureka! That's it. This forum is great. Thanks for your help
  6. Oh I understand now. We're talking about two different connections. The grey pin isn't the problem, it's the red 2L axle can pull out of the knuckle if it takes a good hit. Problem is that the 1x3x1/2 lift arm has a round hole in the center, not an axle hole. So the 2L is only seated by 1/2L into the perpendicular connector. Again, this is a very minor problem but it is the weak spot.
  7. I didn't know it was mandatory, just got lucky Yeah. They stay in place just fine under normal circumstances, it's just when you crash the thing. Really something has to give, it's better than breaking parts. That said, what do you mean by "form lock"?
  8. Hello All. This is my newest little creation. Intended to rip it up indoors on flat floors, which it does. Powered by one (off-brand) buggy motor and a buwizz 2.0. Has 4wd with open differentials front and rear, and solid axles front and rear. The lack of suspension allows for a robust chassis which handles the power delivery with no drama. Front tie rods can disconnect if you run into something but is otherwise very reliable, and fun to drive.
  9. Hi all. This is my RC Buggy, a C-Model build of the 4x4 Crawler set from several years ago now. After building the crawler most people want it to be faster, and with the original B-Model being the exact same drivetrain I thought I would build something to cruise around the house on flat floors. The buggy uses a much simpler drivetrain, rear drive with the two motors mounted transversely across the rear axle, with only one pair of gears each. One motor drives each wheel, eliminating the need for the differential. The motors face the same direction to avoid the use of a PF switch. Front suspension is independent a-arm type with decent travel. Rear is live axle swing arm. The buggy is much faster with the buwizz, of course, but I was pretty happy with the performance of the standard LEGO parts. https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-47375/Cfachini/rc-buggy-9398-c/
  10. This is a neat little build. The combination of the old and new parts, that driven and steered single wheel, the boom functions... It's definitely out of the ordinary and makes for an interesting creation. Nice job.
  11. Great job. The details in the passenger areas are a really nice touch.
  12. Thanks for the info. I'm going to look into that. I see you're using 2 battery boxes. That must be one to each s-brick to prevent over-loading?
  13. Wow, awesome creation. I would love to see a parts list on it, just out of curiosity to see the count and estimated cost. It is seriously impressive. Question... what is this about the 14500 batteries and the dummies? Is there somewhere I can find more information?
  14. Really nice looking build, especially for a true C-model. I know it can be difficult to get what you want with the parts limitations. That's a neat idea with the differential between the motors too. All around great job
  15. Wow looks great. I like how you made those fender arches work laterally at the front and back. How do the new XL-motors work compared to the pfs?