Mr Jos

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by Mr Jos

  1. I've just started on a new MOC design, completely different from what I usually do [Automated machines]. This will be a vehicle, but with loads of movements and big, huge! Original collapsed dimensions +15m long, 3.5m wide, 4m high. I will start to try design it in Studio at a 1:17.5 (140mm = 1 stud). This results in a model 108studs long, 25studs wide and 28 studs high (86cm x 20cm x 22.5cm). I will have to see if this scale is doable to get all the functions inside (and working), else I need to go to a bigger scale perhaps. I haven't worked by first designing in studio before, normally I work in real and later make the model just for instructions. First question as I'm not into "cars/trucks/anything with wheels" at all untill now, I don't know what wheels would be possible for this. [Type1 real] 173cm x 27.5cm: equals ~12.3studs x 2 studs, equals ~99mm x 16mm [Small sidewalls; 270-95R48] [Type2 real] 158cm x 74.5cm: equals ~11.3studs x 5.3 studs, equals ~90mm x 42mm [Big sidewalls; 750-65R26] If anyone got recommendations for those, or tires/rims that would fit both but at a bigger scale [I can still adjust easily as I haven't really started much], please leave some feedback. [EDIT]: What I just found on bricklink; 88517 = 75mm D. x 17mm rim + 11957 = 100.6mm Tire. Totalling a 100.6mm x 17mm this is pretty near the ~99mm x 16mm.
  2. Very nice model with a lot of functions. Good to see you had some inspiration from my model, which you credited, thanks! You managed to make it a lot smaller which is good for these scale models. Mine has been running with 5 valves for 3 event days (8hours each) now, and has broken 2x total.(chain opened up as something got stuck in the selecting of a valve). Really like these Lego pneumatic MOC's.
  3. And a little update, didn't have to much free time this week. But I got the front + rear axles finished in Studio + in real. Front axle has suspension + sideshift left+right (manual actuator) and can turn the wheels full 58°. Today I made the little red cover plate for the front axles. This is something that makes me go out of the comfort zone completely. Normally I only use technic parts, no plates/bricks/slopes/wedges/... A lot of time searching what's available to get the correct angles/dimensions. Next part probably the haulm topper that I'll design, then I got the complete front finished and can start going to the back with the chassis.
  4. And the dual motor setup for the rearaxles is done already. It even allowed me to put the large angular motor for steering in between the axles. The pivot point works even much better now, as only the steering axle connects the two, and it's dead center. Pretty good compact for my liking with 3 of these large motors inside. And about those really small angular motors, to bad that they are so expensive, and not many available. I would've liked to use one for the front wheels steering. EDIT: Offroading test; Without weight it already stays nicely flat. Back to the 3D designing to reverse engineer this solution.
  5. That's exactly my point, by needing 1 more link, it means the clutch gear pushes the links out of the teeth. My point was for driving these chains by a motor, if you use a clutch gear as idler wheel it will make an awfull noise from teeth jumping. I can know this, as I had no other way than use it in my chain conveyors in my big warehouse. It works, but it "clicks".
  6. Very nice model! But looks like your pendular system used a large turntable, so not very good uprightening, or I'm missing where the shocks are. Depending on how it turns out later I'll keep it as it's now or go to a fixed 1 axle as you suggest. For now I'm only using 1 motor for drive and 1 angular for steering (with a 1:3 reduction between the two axles, to get the 11/32° steering). Front wheels will get a steering motor but no drive for now. Maybe I'll have to add a second drive motor as well, then I can remove the middle diff+axle (there's none on the real one anyway). Now that I'm typing that, maybe I'll change that even sooner.. About transporting material, I'll try yes. But I'll first need to understand the complete working of this machine. As this is the first machine I build, which I've never worked on, or seen myself, I'll need to get some explanation from my brother how it should work. (He works with these daily)
  7. A staggered setup I found that works pretty decent. When both rearaxles got connected, I noticed my mistake from before. I don't need shocks for the second axis roll. The machine will always level it out. Just need a pivot point as in the 3D. I put a 10L axle through it so I can take off the wheels quickly for now from the chassis.
  8. Ah I see now they used 16T clutch gears. Those do NOT work well with chains.. The ring touches the tracks/chain, and they skip the gears much more easily.
  9. Yes they are the 6.5L hard springs (731c07), pretensioned at about 1/3 depth both. They nicely push back the frame upright. I bought some of the newer 9L red ones (79717) as well, but they are waaaay stronger.
  10. Yeah thought so that shocks can't really go lower with these narrow widths. The top frame was a quick one now indeed, but it still needs another set of shocks and a frame to allow suspension in the length direction. I'll try tomorrow to make a compact extra frame. The steering motor is what I currently have, but I'll change it later with a much smaller motor with encoder, if I manage to buy 1. And I hope that the second package arrives Monday, that one has all 6 rims and front tires. I can then start making a complete frame. EDIT; And about the weight, the suspension has a liftarm in the middle that can support all the weigth, the shocks only push it back to center after going over rough terrain.
  11. A first real build update. I made the rear suspension as I received the first of 2 BL orders I made Monday. I wanted to test the rigidity and independent suspension working + see how the motors perform. I don't really like that the platform sits so high already. I'ld like it to get lower, originally I even wanted to use the new bigger shocks, but they are way to long and stiff. The issue with trying to place the shocks lower is that they get in the way of the hubs. Driving and steering works fine, I used a Technic hub for the first time and programmed them with PyBricks online, it's very well documented!
  12. So, as in all small Lego technic sets? Some current ones; 30433 Volvo wheel loader; worm+8T 30655 Forklift with pallet; worm+8T 42144 Material handler; worm+20T (cabin)
  13. The software currently supported by Lego is classroom (Scratch based programming environment), I think that one can be put in French.
  14. But can it drift?! Nicely made model anyway. Great front wheel turning range, as it should on a drift car.
  15. Well designed project. If you could add the tail rotor that would be awesome.
  16. Great, just let my self go as I'm sitting sick at home. Ordered the wheels, hubs, steering racks some frames and way to much more usefull things I won't need soon Now to wait for packages from Slovenia and Denmark, guess that counts as an early christmass or 'Sinterklaas'. The real front wheels are not connected to each other/a single motor. They both have their hydraulic motor inside the steering hub.
  17. Thanks, learning a lot. Still much to modify for the axle, but trying to figure out if the turning angle of 32° for the back most wheels would work with the highlighted part? It looks very very close in studio, but I'ld like to wait placing a bricklink order untill I have more designed and can set a bigger order. For the front 2 wheels, they are direct driven by individual hydro motors in the real model, but by lack of them I'll either have to put geekservo motors, CADA motors, or any other small motors directly on the wheel to be able to get a !58°! steering angle. No hub would allow such an angle I think.
  18. @1gor as you know a lot about these type of tires/hubs (others can of course help too); Which type of wheels hubs would be able to create these kind of turning angles? (I don't have many CV joints/hubs/tires yet, so can't test in real) The angles I put all 6 wheels at are the real maximal degrees. I have a feeling that the CV joints can not reach this amount of degrees.
  19. The version I'll be making is set already, as I only received the design for that one (which my brother works on). A pretty impressive 6 wheeler. Unfortunatly the rear hubs are an even amount of studs apart from eachother. And as I've never made a vehicle, I'll need to look very good which hubs to use. But I'ld like to keep the real functionality as much as possible. All 6 wheels steering normal or crab. I don't know if I'll use linear actuators or just small servo's like geekservo connected to a LMS-ESP32. But this model is loaded! with hydraulic cylinders. To bad Lego pneumatics are not suitable to replace those for steering.
  20. You looked what country I'm living at? EDIT: Seems I have 4 of those rims, also in yellow. But not any of the correct tires (I've got 94.3x38R). So I'll change my idea to scale 1:15 to fit the rear tires. Changing the frame to 124 studs long, 29studs wide, 33 studs high. [122mm / stud] Thanks for the help already @1gor!
  21. Licensed, let's say I'll need loads of red, but it's not Grimme! And indeed a potato harvester. I've got my hands on the complete 3D file.
  22. Thanks, looks like a real good suggestion, certainly with the extra stiffness. A 1:15 would result in the model being just over 1meter long. The front tires I already found were exactly a fit for 1:17.5 (100mm). So I'll try to find another 120mm x 2studs front tire. Else I'll just stick with those for now. It's my first agriculture design, but pretty fun to try to make this harvester.
  23. There is only 1 Lego LTM 11200 MOC I can find, If you mean 'Many flego sets", this isn't the right place to get this knowledge, as it's for the brand Lego only (and a little bit CaDa allowed apparently aswell)
  24. Upload your photos to an image hosting site like 'Flickr' and post the link to each photo (at max 1024x1024 size) here. Hard to play "who is it" with so many pieces.