RocketPuppy

Eurobricks Vassals
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About RocketPuppy

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    Technic
  • Which LEGO set did you recently purchase or build?
    42083

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    Male
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    Woof.

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  1. ZR1 should have had stickers for headlights instead of brick built headlights. Going with brick built headlights really compromised the shape of the front end, making the car nearly unrecognizable. The profile and rear of the car aren't that bad. The Senna sacrificed a differential to look that nice. It cheated on scale by an awful lot too. Guessing they won't even try to brick built Mustang headlights. It'll be a sticker. So it'll be 4 wheels, steering column, an engine, and a diff, with a decent looking shell wrapped around it.
  2. RocketPuppy

    42130 - BMW M1000RR K66

    They'll probably do what they've done with 1:8 cars and slap a 12 speed transmission in, and simply not use 6 gears. Either that they will surprise us with a proper clutch pieces to make realistic and compact transmissions. Or completely blow our minds with a new transmission assembly like the differentials.
  3. RocketPuppy

    General Part Discussion

    42096 I can understand. Was the first 1:9 scale car of current Technic era. I really like that set despite it being a bit flimsy, but can understand the compromises to hit that price point. Though it really bugs me the engine is a flat 6 and not a boxer. 42125 I don't like at all. Shares all the problems of 42096. Sits at this odd point of not really being polished enough to be a good display piece, and lacks features and rigidity to be a good example of what Technic can do at the price point. With the price point being bumped up already I hope the next 1:9 GTE car just aims at the same price and features as the Land Rover Defender 42110. We've already crossed the $150 barrier so why not. GTE cars are kind of the wrong car series to flesh out the interior and make this series closer to a modern Model Team set. But that could be another option. Just really make them good display pieces.
  4. RocketPuppy

    General Part Discussion

    I'm guessing Lego hasn't released a bunch of flip flop axles because it makes it much easier to build an impossible to disassemble structure. They probably failed TLGs strength and endurance tests as well. Flip Flop peg holes create stress points between the holes, standard beams naturally spread out any stress, and most current flip-flop pieces have a reinforced cross axle hole in the perpendicular direction. I was surprised the first large flip flop beam was 15L.
  5. Lego Fake Boxer in action. https://imgur.com/gallery/jpLtUV2 Fake 6 cylinder Boxer. This was designed to work with RC vehicles, and it does flawlessly. Could probably be made one stud less in height. Position of yellow bushes on red axles (used for pistons) matters, it'll jam if they aren't pushed in a bit on valve side. The "valves" bounce off axle above them, forcing them to work fast enough if gravity alone isn't working. Limits the max travel of it all too. Will continue to work at pretty extreme angles, and when that's exceeded (like it's upside down) the pistons stop moving and nothing jams. The black 2 beam with cross axle hole things sticking out the top are suspension mounts for a Corvette/Senna/Jeep scale 911 GT3 I'm working on. EDIT: called pistons cylinders, fixed that. Added link to video of it working.
  6. The world runs on F-it and good enough. I'll usually give myself a set of limitations to build within before starting a MOC. Building at small scales for fun helps a lot, you'll be forced to come up with very creative solutions to make things work. Like “I'm going to build a six stud wide pushrod suspension." it's limited in scope, do-able, and you'll learn a bunch from doing it. Even building a bunch of smaller scale models with limited functionality before trying to create a custom 1:8 Supercar. So build a 1:20 car with working suspension, a 1:20 car with a 3 speed gear box, and another thats RC controlled, put them in the car transporter. Now use what you've learned to build the big one. If the goal is to build the best thing possible, set a dead line to achieve it. You'll learn more and get better building and finishing imperfect things than you'll ever grow never finishing that perfect thing.
  7. The PU motors leave a bit to be desired in a steering rack. They'll center perfectly on powering up or forcing a recenter, but develop slop in use. This can be slightly mitigated by building a beefy steering rack to reduce the amount of wiggle between pieces, but doesn't eliminate it. Going with an independent suspensions magnifies the problem. The tiny wiggle between pieces that allows an independent suspension to work freely causes a slight toe-in of wheels in the direction of travel (at least with a Macpherson, double wishbone, or pushrod suspension, or their closest lego equivalents). This is usually fine going forward, but in reverse it causes a toe-out on the steering, which will pull it off center (using a locked differential or no differential on drive wheels mitigates this, but under normal conditions powered wheel will slightly pull the vehicle in that direction when starting to move or over uneven/slippery surfaces). Adding a torsion bar or sway bar helps a lot, but that isn't possible at all scales, and it can be difficult to build one flexible enough for the motor to overcome. EDIT: Rubber bands mounted to pull things to center and prevent toe alignment shifts help too. Another annoying thing is the L PU motors are the same dimensions as the PF ones, with the same annoying mounting points. Really wish Lego would have made it a full stud wider instead of a half stud on the thicker sides, and added a few mounting holes. On smaller scale MOCs the compromised width without mounting holes can make mounting the motor take up more room than if Lego committed to a full stud length.
  8. I've found that many things actually need proportions tweaked a bit off from reality to look right, especially if you go smaller than 1:10 scale. Cars are the toughest to get right. Lego wheel/tires frequently wind up not being quite the right size, throwing off the look. Oddly enough, shorter wheelbase cars often look better slightly stretched, and longer wheelbase cars look better slightly shrunk. The larger the scale, the more accurate proportions need to be.
  9. RocketPuppy

    42123 McLaren Senna GTR

    After building a few MOCs in this scale, I'm actually OK with losing some functionality as long as each car in the “series“ brings something different to the table. Maybe one has working suspension and Ackerman steering, but no diff or working doors. Another has a small trans and diff, but basic steering and no suspension. Another has a functioning twin turbo but no diff. Currently working on a mini 911 GT3 that's rebrickable from 42093. Fitting the engine above the differential took some trickery, even more so to make it short enough after adding a slight V to the boxter so it could work under gravity. Crazy thing is if I decided to use pieces beyond 42093 there's just enough room to squeeze suspension, and 4spd transmission if you don't care what the interior looks like.
  10. A brick built 2 plate tall skirt would extend the body down enough to make it look the correct right height. Might be possible to do via lift arms with some significant chassis redesign. The very front skirt is low enough, nothing else is though. Really wish they'd include a working transmission in one of these non flagship cars, even if it sacrifices other functions to do so. Would be nice to have a more affordable parts pack with transmission pics other than $350+ lego sets, or multiple $70 Ducati bikes.
  11. RocketPuppy

    Compact wormgear gearbox?

    Yeah, I broke a few beams, axles, and worm gears this way experimenting a few years ago. The worm gears want to travel, you lose a lot of energy through friction locking them in place. Longer axles can warp under the friction. It doesn't take much power before you realize worm gears aren't ideal when used with motors. With the newly produced gears being softer overall I wonder if the chances for backlash are higher, possibly causing damage to the gears driving the worm gear.
  12. RocketPuppy

    Compact wormgear gearbox?

    Lego worm gear doesn't handle torque well at all. It's been tried, but it is one of the worst Lego gears at handling torque. You get better results with standard gear reduction. The idea makes sense mechanically, but doesn't transfer into lego well. The Lego worm gear is made of softer plastic and has some pretty loose tolerances.
  13. RocketPuppy

    42107 - Ducati Panigale V4R

    Lots of Targets for them out early. I grabbed one a week ago. According to Target staff on the interwebs (so take this with a bowl of salt) each store only got 3 in the first shipment.
  14. Just build it. These guys are going to be working on this for months/years. They'll release instructions for each major version, but they'll continually improve upon it. Build the thing, let it sit on a shelf for a few months, and see what magic these guys pulled off in the meantime. The 1:8 Supercars get a new release every 2 years. You have plenty of time to build, then disassemble the Sian. The pimp my Sian will still be here being continually improved during that time. Make no mistake. This project will be better than the factory Lego model. Right now it's more in the beta/prototype stage. Weaknesses will be found, simpler ways to do things will be discovered, and even more improvements to functionality and form will be implemented. While I have a few gripes about the Sian (overly complicated transmission, no Ackerman steering, hood wedge shape) , Lego did a much better job with the entire package of functions and appearance this time. The pimped version will be better, but Lego really improved a lot of things, the Sian is a much nicer overall set than the 911 GT3 and Chiron that preceeded it.