Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by SaperPL

  1. That's also why I'm asking about rims like that. But we're talking about toys/models and we're having problems with how this affects wheel arches. Also you may be right when it comes to something that is loose, but here we have a wheel that the vehicle's weight is pressing onto the ground. And I don't remember experiencing any problematic wobbliness with my wheel rims, while I often do have some wobbliness with standard Lego pieces while steering anyway due to some leeway in the parts themselves, so I'd say in this case sitting right in the center might be helping against the problem at slow speeds for more static manual model, while you might be right at it causing some issues at the higher speeds.
  2. Yeah, I know about those issues, but this is still doable if you don't expect to have independent suspension on this wheel. I've made a prototype of this ages ago here: so it can be done if Lego would want to do it. Creator expert mustang rim is letting the pivot point inside, but it's still offset from the centre by half stud so the pivot is not perfect. Also it doesn't fit the look of a truck wheel. For a licensed truck, they could've try to add new piece types, but I guess it wasn't critical issue for the set.
  3. I feel like this was another good opportunity to introduce proper wheel rims with pivot inside the wheel for better steering and correct wheel arches which was wasted again with faking of the front wheel rim looks with 4185 pieces.
  4. Looking at this abomination, I think it could make more sense if they would do something like make a hub with one servo motor and connectors for motors and batteries (plural) in a way that the battery has the form factor of a large motor. For an RC car it could be like putting two batteries for better power output - one per drive motor, or something like that, and better distributing the batteries in smaller form factor. But this... this needs to go, don't buy it - vote with your wallets ;D
  5. This is a type of steering for a tracked vehicle that uses so-called subtractor which means input from motor used for steering is subtracted from the main drive input
  6. While being stuck on the steering for my Sherman, I figured out a remix of this subtractor:
  7. Cool indeed. What about potential redistribution of the setup for instruction makers? It would make sense to allow some kind of commercial licensing that would require end user to buy the license himself just for a single model that requires the control setup, is best used with it.
  8. After doing some research, I decided to go with 8109 Flatbed Truck because of colour scheme which should be easy to replicate without hunting for exotic parts in specific colours as well as the fact that I wanted to do something slightly different. FINAL MODEL: Full Size Photo Original Model Full Size Photo Original Model Full Size Photo Original Model Full Size Photo Instructions on Rebrickable: ORIGINAL POST: It is also a set without a fake piston engine so I don't have to fight to squeeze in the drive train and the engine in this scale. What I like in this set is in particular the kneeling/lowering of the rear of the truck alongside raising end extending the flatbed, which is a pretty cool mechanism to try and make more compact: Lego Technic 8109 Flatbed Truck Speed Build - AustrianBrickFan The extension of a tow wheel holder is really cool as well, but I don't think I'll be able to fit such mechanism at my scale, because the bed pivots over last axle and cuts corner this way in the original model. I managed to make an initial prototype for the bed and kneeling geometry, but I'm not yet sure about whether I should use the single linear actuator like this, or make it two so there's room in the middle between them to drive the tow wheel holder extension there. So far good enough, but I don't like how far up front is the knob for this function. I didn't check the proportions/spacing between front and rear axles, so the whole thing might be long enough already and the knob would not be where the original model had the controls.
  9. Seregiz built this model and made some photos with city tractor set:
  10. I was thinking about doing something like this (small RC model connected to the base) for this contest, but this is a near perfect execution - the drive train is a bit overcomplicated on the bigger mode/base, but thanks to that whole thing looks awesome. Great job!
  11. The project started long before the reveal of 42136 John Deere set, but I wanted to make the front steering with custom 3D printed parts initially and I got stuck on the 3-point hitch/PTO mechanisms, so it was sitting on the hard drive for few months. After figuring out how to make the 3-point hitch mechanism I realised I can make the virtual pivot steering and picked up the designs again around a week before the 42136 was revealed. The trailer however was clearly inspired and initially based on the trailer from the photo of 42136. The rotary rake uses PTO at the back which is integrated into 3-point hitch, but as there is not much room to fit a clutch anymore, the rotary rake is disconnected by folding it's sides up instead of disconnecting the PTO on the tractor's side. There is also a PTO at the front underneath the bumper, but I haven't figured out an attachment for it yet. Full gallery: Video featuring speed builds of each part of the set and functions showcase: Instructions are coming, I just didn't make it with time as I didn't expect this project to grow this much with the implements. EDIT: Instructions for the tractor are online: EDIT2: Instructions for rotary rake are online: EDIT3: Instructions for the tipper trailer are online:
  12. LegoLounge built the trailer for his John Deere tractor.
  13. Those night photos in contest entry look awesome. Great job!
  14. It's beautiful, but do you have a photo with angled pose like in the first one, but without the box in the background so it's the car on clear background, to be the first in the thread? @Milan frontpage ?
  15. Another lego ideas submission not crediting original creator...
  16. Well, when it comes to either companies having a process of acquiring model ideas/submissions, at least CADA doesn't hold the rights to the model and then not do it even when reaching 10K supports on the platform, to only release the model based on the idea one year later... Better for us AFOLs, but probably Lego knows what they are doing in context of accessibility for younger audiences.
  17. The prototype looks a bit structurally messy, but the new design feels really solid in contrast to that. Can't wait to see it in action as well. Are you planning to increase the speed of movement though between the motors placed in the middle and those axles with worm gears?
  18. I think you're loosing a lot of traffic by not adding working links, especially when it comes to people watching your videos on the phone because it's cumbersome few clicks to manually go to a website and find your MOC there. My trick for my laziness when it comes to adding the link is that rebrickable is still accepting shortening links to just MOC number by removing everything after it like this: -> and this is short enough for youtube to not cut it away and optimise as it sometimes does. Anyway, good model, I have to get some of those tyres and try making something with them as well, because I keep seeing those in really cool small sized models. And also experiment with those rubber pieces you used for suspension, and btw I still need to try building the chassis from your TC20 model with those, gotta see this trick with flexible chassis IRL :)
  19. Cool little model. I'm curious though, as I didn't follow your progress on this one - did you perhaps try doing this as an alt model for the john deere tractor, or was being close to your tractor scale main focus right away? Also curious - what's up with your links to your rebricable MOCs under your videos? Is there a reason why you always have something wrong with them? I remember that youtube did sometimes cut some links off for me, but not for rebrickable.
  20. This is something I've built today after realising this could be used in a half-track: The braked differential steering is a steering system that was widely used in tanks. The idea is that we lock one output drive from differential and thus all power goes to the other side. In theory it is simple, but with no dedicated brakes in Lego Technic it gets complicated. It was often used with differential lock for driving straight though, which complicates such mechanism even more in Technic model. The drive input is in a poor position for the tank - I'll probably have to figure out how to connect the drive from the other side if I want to use it in a tank build, but it's not an easy task. It might be just in the right spot for the halftrack model though.
  21. I've written my concerns about it above. Note that apart from the servos here, there's still need to fit motors and figure out how to connect it to a 4-motor hub. I'm not sure if its worth it, since at this point it's an overcomplication of things that behave similarly to motors connected directly with proportional control and don't behave like differential steering with locked output proportion at all. And with two servos, I'd have to drop one of the turret functions and not having gun elevation in a model of this size would be really weird.
  22. This looks really neat. Especially the snow plow with those teeth and edges detailed out and great proportions between tracks and wheels at the back.
  23. @Ryokeen I was thinking about something like this, but I'm not so keen on having that thin liftarm close to the gears because there's a potential that the gear shifter will push it against the gear teeth if the driving ring is blocked against the gear. Should work most of the time, but it might be touching the gear. I'm leaning towards a single servo mechanism as best compromise, just need to figure out the motor layouts to be solid and don't take up too much of space while having driving axle sent to the back of the whole chassis.
  24. I got stuck on this for a bit longer than expected and I'm not sure which way to go with the steering mechanism. The problem is, that the last iteration of the mechanism works great until I put a lot of weight on it, at which point the path of least resistant when trying to steer is to spin the motor that is not driven at the time instead of it working as a break and thus one side being slower. There's various things I'd like to achieve here, but at this scale I can't achieve all of them: make the steering with two sticks and not one stick is gas and one is servo make the steering work on the same principle as the actual Sherman steering make the steering behave similarly to actual Sherman steering The potential solutions and their drawbacks: single servo differential steering through connection at specified ratio outside of the differential - one stick for steering, not gradual steering angle, configuration is kind of weird when it comes to passing the drive input to the fake engine at the back. dual servo with two gearboxes for steering of each side - should behave like its supposed to, but it's not a differential steering anymore, it's tricky to reinforce and is pretty long because of two servos placement. the actual Sherman-like differential steering that had it's own separate video, but is really huge and it would mean either making the whole model bigger which I don't want to do, or designing quite a few 3d printed elements to shrink differential. The twin gearbox approach would work really well with gradual steering on each stick, but it also means that drive motor(s) need to go somewhere and they would take input from the feature for turret, so I wouldn't have gun elevation anymore. Ideally I would have the motors driven off a battery box, but for that, I'd have to have gearbox disconnect drive output from the drive motors, and then it'd be weird that neutral is in the middle of the stick. On top of that, it's kind of hard to figure out how to reinforce the orange shifters location so they won't slide while also they won't touch the reinforcing elements or the reinforcing elements wont collide with gears near them The single servo steering is the one from this video: Which I think is the most reliable approach, but it's a bit annoying that it's controlled with a single stick. I dropped that approach earlier because it felt like it requires a lot of space, but I increased the size of the chassis significantly from that prototype already and also reworked the turret mechanism multiple times, so It might be the best bet. Still, I'm not 100% sure if I should go this way, or is there a better approach, that's not just going yolo with two drive motors connected directly, which I don't really like, but at the same time it would allow for a cleaner, simpler build. But at the same time, with current weight of the model, the slight difference between motors or how to power is supplied from the hub will mean it won't drive perfectly straight.
  25. $11 set might be too smal to get many people excited, you have to really have some interesting build with not a lot of pieces for it to be exciting. I think that optimal size for a small set is something around 350 pieces like john deere tractor with trailer and if we were to get such non-branded $20~ish sets that are slightly more polished on the looks than the $11 sets, but still having functionality, it'd be great. Even more awesome it would be if lego would focus on a single scale matching the car transporter scale and few last supercars like senna/bolide/tecnica and started releasing various sets in the matching scale. We have some of them in similar if not the same scale, like the tow truck and few others, but it'd be great if they made it as a series similar to how speed champions are handled, because without it, "investing" into a collection at specific scale may be too risky if they might just change the scale next year.