SaperPL

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by SaperPL

  1. Do it for fun and pick some not-so-popular old set with some interesting mechanical feature like I did :)
  2. Thanks, but I doubt this is a valid solution as it'll probably easily fall apart under any load. I didn't think that would be something that noone did before. But yeah, I didn't see it. Apart from this, those panels are neat for assembling things with half stud shift.
  3. The original (8109) is from studless era, it's just that it composes panel fairing #1 and #2 and curve 2x3 liftarm (71708) with a grille made with wedge plates and tiles in between, but it does it really well, while when I want to make the similar approach at ~73% scale, it gets really messy with smaller panels because of less space and less attachment points. The tricky part of the question is whether to forcefully try to re-implement the layout of original truck's front as close as possible or whether to make something that is a truck like with what can be done in neat fashion as re-imagination of what could it look like at smaller scale...
  4. @Jim - how acceptable it is to make the hood of a truck completely with system/model team approach if the original model had it like 80% done and scaling it down makes it harder to achieve the similar layout of headlights and grille with just Technic parts? For trucks a lot of MOCs and sets themselves do a model team approach on the grille and I feel like it should be okay to have the same approach if most of the model itself is Technic/studless, but at the same time we could assume we want pure studless models with just tiny details made from system pieces, but at that point it's more like reimagining the whole set with what can be done in studless techniques...
  5. Worked on the input structure some more and figured out some initial approach how to do this with a fake battery box encapsulating the universal joint + CV joint shift of the steering input to where it was in the original model: I is however still 1 stud too high when comparing it to original model as it will be seen from the top and in the set it was beneath the roof top level. The problem is that if I were to go lower, I would need to figure out what to attach gears for linear actuator input to, and change CV joint to universal joint and also the knob for platform raising would go lower which wouldn't be at the same height as the knob for winch on the platform. Now they are aligned so this should look better than if I were to move it down. Started working on a cab and there's a lot of different tricky places I need to figure out how to tackle because those small panels have barely any attachment points... I need to figure out how to tackle the front... Might want to check with Jim if studded front like in my truck and above studio model is okay or not for the competition. The original model had the studded grill and lights only. Still a lot to figure out about the cab, but at least I have some idea of how to tackle the steering inputs alerady.
  6. That looks really good, now I start wondering if maybe this was the way to go to appease jury :D Because it seems like this model at this scale is an easy choice, but at the same time you can re-make it perfectly, and choosing a target model and the scale is also part of the challenge...
  7. Oh cool that there is a single spot for the input. I'm not sure about the crank versus knob though. Consider how it'll work when you have the whole boom attached with something hanging on it. The knob is something you're applying twisting force from both sides so it should be more stable than when you're cranking the crank. I would expect the whole thing to be affected especially when everything is sitting on a turntable. Good progress though, keep it up, I want to see this big crane in small scale and full functionality picking stuff up :D
  8. That's some tight hose routing, it looks cool. What is your plan for holding that old pump? you will have to pull it back manually so it's not a press-down and spring takes it back like in the standard pump. I don't like that the lower levers are so close to that black 1x6 tile marking bottom of the windshield. Feels like squeezing a finger there will be hard and you'll end up touching other switch easily.
  9. The default rendering quality settings is set to 128 samples per pixel and you don't need such high quality. See for yourself what level is okay for you, 16 or even 8 samples per pixel may be okay, you just need to check that. It's just that the shadows and reflections may look sharper/more fake.
  10. Looks really good. I wonder how much cranking will be required when playing with it. Are you going to move the tracks with the input passed through the turntable or is there going to be a knob at the back of the base?
  11. Now I can see why the white was a bit too much. To make it perfectly, you'd have to make that section with half stud wide liftarms probably. Also the yellow shock absorbers weren't in my mind at that point, but the fact that there's a lot of red in the original model's suspension. That depends on what will jury vote for... and also there still a lot of time. This is a good pick, but I'm not sure how it compares to some other builds that seem more challenging.
  12. Why no white stripe on the front and red parts on the suspension (in studio design) ?
  13. use the color from the original as the orange ones are too close to orange body. Also consider using the light bulb piece on a bar instead of 1x1 round tile for it.
  14. Note that in previous gifs I cut down 75% of frames so the gif wouldn't be too big and too slow, so the linear actuator version here is sped up 4x. That's why it looks like black magic. But I should be able to get close to that speed with some gearing because all gifs were made without any gearing before linear actuator input, and I've tested the double gearing already and it's working okay. Yeah, before this panel, having a ramp connection with ground was a pain to build cleanly at this scale and required using bionicle eye/claw piece: Anyway, I will probably get back to linear actuator implementation, but with gearing, mostly because the construction is messy now, but also as you guys said, slow raising seems more realistic.
  15. Live axle at the front with steering in something this cute - nice start :D
  16. I don't like cranking the knob a lot, so I experimented a bit with the no linear actuator approach: I'm not really sure whether to go this route or get back to cranking the linear actuator with some gearing to speed things up a bit. This one without gears is too fast and also affects the connection between the chassis and it takes ton of space to implement the lever that is perpendicular in two directions... And overall that's a messy build because of that. I also don't know if a car owner would like to see his towed car do an instant whoop when the tow truck bed is retracting this fast xD
  17. Really cool and now this nose makes more sense. The ramp being mechanised surprised me. Now you need to make some kind of stand for it to be able to showcase the features without turning it upside down and without propellers hitting the floor when engines are in horizontal flight position and make video that's not off-hand, so maybe a stand for the phone as well :) Really cool small model, are you planning ot make some 3d to explain how the mechanisms are laid internally?
  18. Judging by the photo - is it actually 30%? Also what's up with side-by-side comparison with compared models placed in opposite directions ? :D
  19. Not really, my cabin is just a placeholder and everything will be decided when I figure out how to route the inputs. Also I have to decide whether to have half-fully-manual/half-actuator-driven feature or just fully manual so I'm still not finished, still figuring things out. All in all, you've picked a more challenging set to implement, I wanted to do something that poses less risk of being messy all over the place as it takes significantly more time to figure out things and there is a bigger risk of failure as well. For one contest, studless replication, I picked up too small set to replicate, for another I went with something complicated/challenging but still small. This time I went with something in the middle of the scale and thus it's faster. But we don't really need to rush, it's just a starting point right now :)
  20. Good progress. I can't wait to see how will you manage the excavator arm :)
  21. I think you wrote this in the wrong topic :P
  22. Good progress. Any chance you could try and fit similar propeller spinning induction as in the recent yellow plane? Or at least figure out the secondary controls placement somewhere at the bottom rear? I envision this kind of toy as something you would hold with one hand from the bottom and use controls for different mechanisation from the back of it.
  23. Thanks. I didn't understand what was happening there in the middle with that pass-through 20T gear, but now I get it, it was for steering there. Also interesting approach to steering, It took me a moment to get what you're doing there. It's understandable though - no other way to pass another input for steering if you have engine above. Very clever approach for this scale.
  24. Thanks! Once again - the cab is a copy-over placeholder from another project just to match scale. Didn't do much there yet, will get there once I have the layout of control inputs inside the cab. Meanwhile - I figured out the mechanism of extending the tow bar/tow tray: Fits where I want it to fit, but I don't like that the angle limiter takes whole stud because when extended it sits on the floor/ground. The tow bar is strong enough when extended to hold something, but the amount of extension is limited by how much linear actuator extends, so a small corresponding size model has hard time fitting its wheels so close to the edge fo the platform on this tow bar. More like for towing something slightly smaller scale without the front bumper sticking out much. Anyone has ideas on how to reduce the size of that angle limiter to half stud? is there anything that holds onto axle but is not full 2 studs long and can hold something else to limit the tilt angle?
  25. Can you show more pictures of the tractor? The roof looks kind of squashed with that rear pillars on the connectors that are shifting the axle position. I like how you did the exhaust, that's a neat detail.