SaperPL

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by SaperPL

  1. Right now those black connectors are not moving, but the flip-flop beam is riding on the red axle there and the axle ends in the liftarm holding the rear lights. So if I were to accept that the red axle would be sticking out, I'd have to have attachment point on the other side of those black connectors where connected axle would have to travel and that gets complicated because this weird connection is there specifically because in resting position the linear actuator is intruding in to the bottom layer of liftarms. That's why I made this construction and trust me that those axles are not parallel to the liftarms because of that. If I were to make an attachment point, the platform wouldn't fully close down. In a place where you've placed the 3L axle holding those blue 2L liftarms, I cannot connect anything there because the lever raising the platform intruding from the sides. It means that every time the platform would reach the full extension, it would pop out the tow bar a litttle at the back. Those 3x5 L-beams are moving as shown in the gif above and attaching a rope in a way it won't get stuck between those gets complicated How do you convert <90 degree pull on those bushes on the axle with blue 2L liftarms into 180 degree turn on the towbar? Try to build such prototype anyway. I wonder how it'll actually work. The biggest problem here is actually the #4 on figuring out 90 degrees to 180 degrees with a rope.
  2. One odd sticker question a day keeps next contest's terms without oddly specific sticker rules away :D I would only add that the color scheme needs to be original, because like you said, modifying them even when they are at scale can open up can of worms.
  3. Good progress, but I just want to see this small white truck complete :D
  4. Double it by figuring out how to make sure it rolls back those 180 degrees when you are pulling it. That's a complex problem and the way they did in it the original model is a good one and there needs to be some proper way of handling the slack and I don't see a place where I could do this properly except if I were to rebuild whole cab and have the string and linear actuator control for it somewhere there together and some kind of slack control there, but I already had hard time with steering and platform actuation. Also if I were to push out this axle there, the axle would be there above the towbar as well affecting the placement of a vehicle on it.
  5. Let's see what happens then, I wonder how it'll get treated. For me choosing a set that you can have matching colours is also a challenge especially since you might have perfect shape setup that doesn't exist in the same colour as original. Also competition is going to be tight, I think, so every detail will matter.
  6. From the first page of the discussion topic: And yeah, I know that rules weren't perfectly laid out from the start...
  7. Check last few pages of discussion, I asked some questions about stickers as well. Maybe ask Jim specifically about your idea on what you want to do. Well, that's part of the challenge with those set remakes that you need to figure out which set will have reasonable part availability in a specific colour. I picked like the easiest possible setup of LBG/Black/Red/Yellow and still ended up with a surface at the back of the cab that got tricky to handle and I still was looking for parts from multiple sources. If recolors were to be acceptable, I feel like this is something that should have been determined at the start of the contest where we were picking out sets based on part availability... But you can ask Jim in the discussion topic about this.
  8. That's a really god down-scaled model. I wonder how jury will see it because from one side tractors like this have a lot of messy surfaces so it feels easy, but at the same time angling mounting points gets challenging. And if I understand correctly you have all features of the set working properly? Now I feel like going after some tractor set might've been a better choice :)
  9. Are you going with red panels because the green is hard to get? Also if I understand correctly, you can can cut the original stickers physically to match scaled down surfaces, but modifying the sticker sheet is against the rules. Or did I miss something and you could scale down the stickers?
  10. The truck looks as its supposed to, but from that video I feel like you should change the gear ratio to reduce the resistance when pushing long the gear rack. I'm also wondering how are you going to differentiate the type of action between front and rear? Will the tiles with gear rack have some kind centering mechanism for the track so you can have inputs at different location underneath the truck, or is it purely the direction in which you're going through them? Anyway, after watching the review of the original model, I feel like staying true to the original model without RC and at this scale is a pretty hard task.
  11. Got the last missing parts, replaced frictionless pins with normal ones for the back axles and captured some footage to show you how the kneeling mechanism works: You can also see here how I fixed the sticker with the name and the stripes on the right of it. Also managed to do 360's:
  12. The black bars on the mirrors are leftovers from mobile crane set because apart from the Technic sticker in the middle, this sticker sheet didn't have much black: Note that I don't have place for attaching the functions information to make sense, and more importantly the sticker for big curved panel would end up depicting tiny hatch in the middle of the panel if I were to cut it in the middle to shrink it to this size of panel, and then I'd have to figure out how to fit it together with Road Service text and the stripe. I just managed to fit Road Service text and the stripe there (it's not on the photos yet, I fixed it a bit later). For the contest maybe, but for instruction if the function doesn't work correctly because of that, it's a problem. Yes, but only at the same height something can be attached to the 15L LBG beams, above it everything is moving. But rope with slack needs the slack to be handled somehow, otherwise when closing the slack will be loose anywhere, even next to the end. And yeah, I had the rubber band there and it worked, but it did push whole thing like 1/5 of the stud away from the liftarm holding the lights.
  13. Yeah, I was thinking about using the rope for that, but the complication is that it should start pulling on the towbar to rotate it with a delay. And there's literally no space to play with such things, there's 1 stud horizontally and 2 studs vertically for most of the length of tow bar extension arm, and there's a bit of space on the sides between the wheels, but that's it: Note that I have to do some shenanigans with attachment of the red axle on which the tow bar assembly is sliding because in the spot where I need the axle to be attached, the platform raising levers moved by the actuator are passing on the sides (the two black pin-axle connectors angling whole thing to move around the linear actuator), and more to the back, I don't have option to attach anything on the sides of this because the mechanism could get stuck. The problem with the rope approach is that unless it's perfectly guided in the middle, it could get stuck when the platform raising mechanism is working, and apart from this, I would have to figure out a way for it to only start pulling once the towbar is out of the headlight's clearance, and such mechanism means some controlled slack and it means having space for it. Also the problem with rope (the one with ends in round plates) is that not all ropes are perfectly equal and they get stretched over use and thus for a model with instructions this could make this function not work correctly just because someone has a rope that is slightly longer. And also for the twine having perfect length required would also be a problem to perfectly tie knots etc.
  14. Thanks, and yeah, I chose this size estimating to be able to make it in reasonable quality at this scale. Just from my experience, going below 11 wide/7wide between the wheels starts complicating things and that is why I didn't want to go smaller than this. So exactly smallest possible. By the way interesting case of this contest is the fact that we are forced to change motorized features into manual ones, but where is the line we draw when making something manual. I think that I noted that few times when talking about knuckle boom cranes and excavators, but if you're not routing all inputs to the back of the model/to one place for controls, using knobs at each segment kind of defeats the purpose, and instead we could just have segments manually adjusted without additional knobs, just through those system click joints. And because of that, since it got impossible for me to make the towbar rotation driven in any reasonable way, so I had to do this part manually anyway, It didn't make sense to make the extension driven with a second linear actuator, despite the fact that I managed to fit it in the construction and shown that it's possible. I wonder how will the competition look at the end of run because there's still a month for them to participate and we could see some late runners joining the game next week for example, and there's already quite a few interesting submissions. Btw2: I was considering shrinking the 42000 (Grand Prix Racer/F1 Race Car) since I could have enough white panels to build it, but it's not the kind of tow truck for the F1 race cars and it wouldn't climb the ramp with his front spoiler. So I started figuring out whether maybe I can shrink the 8081: It's kind of doable, but once I make the steering active, it causes problems when pulling it upwards with the winch, so need additional mechanism so steering doesn't move loosely. Second part is that actually the hook needs more than 1L of space , so having liftarms next to the axle it's supposed too hook on makes it impossible for the hook to go around completely. So whole attachment of the front bumper for hooking got too complicated with steering around and need to shift it by half stud vertically.
  15. Yeah, it makes more sense now and those darker areas are easier to distinguish. It might feel slightly overburn, but with mostly black model, there's not much you can do about it without some professional lighting and skills for setting it up perfectly for taking the picture in the first place, I think.
  16. Looks really good, are you planning to make a video of how it works? Also are those final photos for the submission? There's a lot of black in the model and it would help to bump up ISO/white balance a bit to see them more. I feel like photos of the set model were also brighter at those areas.
  17. I checked the studio model - it's nice to have if if someone were to dig into something like this later on, but you should put separate chunks of it into submodels and order it by steps, because your whole experience of the order in which it has to be assembled will be lost without it.
  18. @Jim another random question about stickers - is it okay for sticker to be not cut into two separate pieces when placed on two connected panels? I ended up with middle of the letter in an original sticker being on a seam between two small panels and there's literally no way of going around it, and if I do cut into it, the letter there will get messed up:
  19. Thanks, I couldn't wait with the stickers since I'm not getting last pieces today, so I went ahead with cutting and applying them: But it's not just the axles for wheels but whole mechanism holding the wheels is right now on frictionless pins as I wanted to see if this would affect the actuation/make the resistance lesser on the knob turning as well as I feel that should be the proper way to use frictionless pins for moving connections. But I need this kind of connection there because I need to put this axle for platform actuation through it. It's complicated because of that, but the approach to have input on the roof feels wrong. My point was to potentially pick up another Technic set of a car that is around 15 studs wide that I would scale down to 75% to match this platform.
  20. Got some of the parts missing for the front and decided how to tackle the sides of the cab. Still waiting for few pieces like the roof edges to be in yellow and some grey frictionless pins for the rear wheels. I am considering using white portion of the sticker sheet to mask out the portion of red plates under the trans clear headlight tiles, but I'm not sure if this is okay. Similar technique was used already in some speed champions where they had stickers behind the trans clear headlights, but not on the stud itself, just on flat surfaces and I would be doing it on a stud that is actually forming a connection. Also not sure how okay is this to use sticker sheet this way, may be a gray area here. I added rubber band to the winch lock as it makes more sense this way. I don't get why the original model didn't have anything like that apart from the fact that the way I did it is tricky to do. Interesting thing is that I might need to change the frictionless pins in the wheel kneeling mechanism to the ones with friction as the wheels are kind of loose and when the platform is raised, the effect of wheels moving off the ground is not as pronounced as in the original model and as it was with blue 3L pins. I will start tackling stickers once I'm sure I'm done with the model. I'm not sure how to tackle the sticker for the curved side panel as the original was a bigger panel and cutting away a portion of it means I need two ideally cut matching pieces to not be too noticeable that it's not a single piece. When it would be on two separate bricks, it'd be okay to just split it like Lego does it, but on a single one it'll feel messy. Also any ideas for a simple corresponding car model to be towed/pulled onto the platform? Was there a set model that would ideally fit onto 8109?
  21. I need to hold the roof onto something, but I should be able to attach it to the fake battery structure as well. The problems are there needs to be a hole on the other side for the axle with input for platform elevation, so actually I cannot have this lowest panel there. But I could try and think about moving the input for that to the roof if I could achieve perfect looks on the sides here. The bigger annoyance however is that holding this whole assemble just by a single axle attachment and still figuring out then how to add that black axle connector to the fake battery assembly.
  22. Nice that it actually works. Great achievement doing this at this scale. I love how it looks as this is a good depiction of the original set, but at the same time I feel that going so small to this scale may not have been worth it in context of playability. But I also don't like knuckle boom cranes and excavators having knobs at each stage of the arm, so that's just my bias.
  23. You make a custom brick in part designer and import a decal texture onto it.
  24. Looks really good and nice photos :) One thing that I'm not sure about is the crane attachment feeling just a bit oversized to a point the model feels like a manga style "chibi" oversized. Not sure if this is good or bad though, just getting those vibes.