2GodBDGlory

Eurobricks Dukes
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Posts posted by 2GodBDGlory


  1. All this discussion is reminding me a lot of my current WIP Backhoe! (Sadly left at school while I'm at home over Christmas)

    The plan is for it to have 9 different RC pneumatic functions, as well as 6 other mechanical RC functions!

    It's not using those peristaltic pumps, but I think there are some interesting solutions involved to get all that to happen, using just one PU hub and one MouldKing 6.0 control module.

    It's mostly done mechanically, but does have some stretched proportions to fit everything in--larger rear tires would be extremely helpful!

    Anyways, I look forward to finishing and sharing it


  2. On 12/23/2023 at 2:18 PM, 1gor said:

    After some (longer) time, I have something new; thanks to genius @Zerobricks I decided to take another chance for narrow steering axle using (Daytona) differential and planetary hubs, so here is a result

    Huh, so is the innovative part of it leaving the O-frame out to allow placing the CV joint right next to the differential, and then just counting on the heavy-duty differential teeth not skipping despite having less reinforcement?

    That's smart!


  3. 5 hours ago, allanp said:

    I did think the TRX would be great till I just found out that they only do it as an automatic. What's up with that? Why the heck is there no manual stick shift option?! 

    Because Americans don't like manuals...

    I believe the last stick-shift on any large American truck was the 6-speed/I-6 Cummins Diesel option on heavy duty Rams through 2018, but that was a very niche option that was quite the curiosity. I think 2010 might have been the last year for a stick-shift on any 1500-grade truck, again on the Ram.

    You can still get a standard transmission on the Jeep Gladiator and Toyota Tacoma here in North America, but otherwise they're dead in trucks.

     

    Anyways, that model proposition does sound very cool and interesting, and I'd love to see something like that, though I doubt Lego is willing to do that kind of thing at the moment!


  4. 4 hours ago, Bluehose said:

    Why would this be a matter ?

    -#1 classic remote control, channel 1, you use lever right and left for two motors 

    -#2 proportional train remote control, channel 2, you use only the left one for lights

    -#3 classic remote control, channel 2, you use only the right lever for a motor

     

    -Two receptors, channel 1 and 2

    You would think that that would work, but I believe that if you try it in practice, it doesn't work that way. For example, if you used the left control on channel 2 to set the lights on the train controller, and then hit the right lever on channel two on the normal remote control, the lights will go out, even though you haven't touched the left control. Essentially, the receiver is only able to receive commands from one type of remote at a time, and switching back and forth will override the other one.


  5. 1 hour ago, msk6003 said:

    I never thought about that! Cause 3pin hub is longer than this part, I think it is still useful for car which use 56908 wheel and maybe if we use half stud thick beam like 5L or 7L, it also can work as suspended steering with driving hub.(Mustang's 5 spook 30x20 wheel will not fit)

    Huh, good point! I'd be a bit worried to use it on a bigger wheel, though, just because having only one stud of axle engagement with a standard CV joint wouldn't give much grip.

    How are you thinking of doing the suspended/steered hub with that?


  6. Looks like a handy part! I can see it being used as a hub for unsteered independent suspensions for small models that don't/can't use 3-pin hubs, but then probably anything that small/skinny can't really use CV joint-style suspensions anyways.

    Also, in some cases it could work like the lower left part in this image from @gyenesvi's Technic Parts We Would Find Useful thread, though of course in many cases it wouldn't.

    640x480.png


  7. 6 hours ago, Tatrovak said:

    I looked at the topic about your Lada, I like the design of your body, at first glance I recognized the Niva in it. As far as my opinion is concerned, I think you definitely did well to throw out the two-speed gearbox, I am an opponent of gearboxes, in my opinion they are just a source of unnecessary mechanical resistance, they are unreliable, increase the weight of the model and take up a lot of space, although I admit that I have this opinion because I don't know how to assemble a good gearbox. Maybe it's just a bit of a shame that you didn't stick to the original, the LADA Niva has independent suspension on the front axle, the rigid axle is only at the back. Anyway, I'm glad that someone from such a distant country as Canada knows a machine from us, from the former Eastern bloc.

    Thanks! I do like gearboxes in off-roaders to allow for decent speed but also good crawling, but they definitely do have disadvantages, and I'd agree that they're not worth it for fast, on-road vehicles.

    It could have been more realistic with independent front suspension, but I didn't think I'd be able to achieve the level of off-road performance I was going for with that setup, unfortunately.

    Yeah, I am far away from that Lada's homeland! Interestingly, we did have that vehicle sold here back in the day, unlike in the US, but I'm too young to remember seeing any, except for one I spotted in a junkyard a few years back.


  8. Oh yeah, I remember reading about that CC850 when it came out too! I'll have to refresh my memory on the details.

    Koenigsegg is great at doing crazy engineering projects, and I'd imagine that's one of their main selling points, as opposed to other boutique supercar manufacturers

    Is there anywhere I can find information on how that MOC version of it works? There doesn't seem to be much information on Rebrickable, and I can't find anything about it elsewhere online.


  9. 4 hours ago, Tatrovak said:

    I base this opinion on the fact that I have never had a U-joint fall apart in a ball joint, but maybe it's just my feeling, it's hard to say.

    I've managed to repeatedly break U-joints in a ball joint, but that was in a stupidly overpowered design with four PF XL motors hard-coupled, running off an unrestricted 11.1+V battery, without nearly enough gear reduction beforehand. (Fortunately, metal U-joints are available, but unfortunately, my problems moved downstream. Knob wheels and 3L axles aren't as strong as you'd think!)

    Not exactly a typical situation, though!


  10. 1 hour ago, allanp said:

    I do hope we get the new Yamaha parts in the next car, plus a few more gear sizes. It has taken so long to get to three! But I'd also love to see a traditional stick shift, 6 to 8 speeds but with the nice ball joint action of 8880, not the clunky and sticky sliding axle approach that began with 8480. I could be wrong but I think some, or even most, modern supercars with a stick shift also have flappy paddles. Would be interesting to see how they could integrate both. Like, with the stick shift, you could go from any gear directly to any other gear. Then with the paddles you would be able to sequentially move up/down through the gears from wherever the manual stick shift was in. I don't know if that's how it works in real cars with both stick and paddle shifters. Maybe there's a button you have to press to select which shift option you want to use?

    Yeah, I'd have to assume that those Yamaha parts will be used in the next 1:8--I've been playing around with them recently, and they definitely have a lot of potential that wasn't really used in the Yamaha.

    Are there actually any cars with both stick shifts and paddle shifters? I've never heard of any. You might (rarely) get a system where you can sequentially bump up and down gears with either a lever or paddles (without a clutch pedal), but I'm not aware of any systems that had both a traditional joystick/clutch pedal manual alongside paddle shifters.


  11. Looking good! Quite a unique model

    18 minutes ago, Seasider said:

    But a question … it there any way to make lights switch on/off using PF without just holding the switch in place?

    Here's a couple options:
    1. Use the train controller to keep them on. This would require you to use that controller for the other thing on that receiver as well, which might not be convenient

    2. Mount a motor inside the body that flips a PF switch. That way, you can use the remote to flip the switch, and then leave it there. That would require a fair bit of complexity and weight, though