Posts posted by 2GodBDGlory
26 minutes ago, Jim said:
No home made stickers. I will add that to future contest. This will give you an unfair advantage.
Wait, I thought that was normally allowed! In the current entries, @Berthil and I have both used some custom stickers. Mine aren't particularly important to the model, but the whole model has been taken apart, so there's no opportunity for me to take new pictures without them.
Do you think this is alright, given that it wasn't especially clear?
Faction: Space Police
Highlighted feature: Deployable "Shipping Container" Boarding Ship
- Spring-loaded landing gear
- Removable cargo container
- Container eject function
- Rear door on container
- Extending rear spike
- Expanding rear spike
- Split opening hood
- Hidden two-axis joystick operated six-shooter gun
- Opening cab doors
- Sliding rear "Ray door"
Phew, thanks for the reminder! I've been putting off putting mine in the entry topic, but I guess I'd better get it up now!
6 minutes ago, Polarlicht said:
Had to order some micromotors with the old plug before they are gone
Yeah, it'll be a bit annoying. I reckon if I ever need to buy any CADA stuff in the future, I'll just buy some dirt cheap clone PF extension cables and solder them in myself.
4 minutes ago, Krxlion said:
The problem is not with ground clearance but with body starting too much in front of the front wheels(I do not know how to put in words differently),
Probably approach angle would be the term for that?
It's not Technic, but the new Creator Land Rover Defender has some rather advanced suspension!
Triangulated four-link live axles, I believe?
I think this image is too large to embed:
54 minutes ago, SaperPL said:
There's this guy on the grabcad which has good quality parts made in solids so you can also edit them in CAD: https://grabcad.com/dk
For most of the parts I can manage myself, but the panels have complex curves and I just gave up. I would probably have already printed those versions if not of the another part request from eric trax which occupied my printer for some time :P
Wow, that's really impressive stuff!
Thanks for the link!
2 hours ago, TinkerBrick said:
in the clip the motor turns 180°. It should only rotate 90° to the left or right:
I suppose sth. went during reassembly. Maybe a sensor was somehow misaligned.
No, I think his is just starting from the one extreme side and moving all the way to the other extreme. I don't think there's really any way to misalign a sensor on these?
2 hours ago, SaperPL said:
Yes they are - those are actually ripped from studio, but I have a better model since then, but just didn't have enough time to print it. The reason is that the arch is not available in DBG.
Yeah, I ripped Sian wheel arches from Studio too for 3D printing, back when I was trying to piece together a multicolored Sian from my collection!
17 minutes ago, Ngoc Nguyen said:
Does the bar in the part 21445/66897 fit the inside of a 1/2 pin? I don't have that part so I can't test.
I'm pretty sure it would? I don't have anything like that on hand either, but I know I used to have Star Wars speeder bikes that used normal clips on that kind of attachment, which would imply that the diameter is the same as a standard bar. You'd have it under compression, though.
Quite cool! I like that supercar-esque approach, and the functionality looks pretty unique!
Are those black wheel arch pieces 3D-printed?
Yeah, problems with those motors, in my experience, are usually based on one of two things:
1. Poor connection on that copper track. I've typically been able to fend this off by cleaning the tracks. (Some recommend using an eraser for this) and perhaps bending the tabs a little bit to add tension against the track.
2. Worn insulation where the cable enters the motor or the plug (more often the motor)
This can be solved by opening up the motor, cutting out the part of the cable that was rubbing at that joint, and resoldering the shortened wire back to the motor. (This is significantly harder on Servos than other PF motors, because all four wires have to be soldered, and close together, unlike the simpler motors)
5 hours ago, GTS said:
Maybe wrong topic, but:
how the heck do you take out one of these after it's in? Besides pushing it from the rear.
It allows for locking parts together like it's cousin but it is a one-way lockage and can lead to non-reversible assemblies.
Any tips on which pieces do fit inside and are able to take it out?
Bars will fit into both ends and go in one stud, so you might be able to get enough friction to pull it out that way.
Looks very cool!
Have you tested that style of steering, where the motor is indirectly moving the forks, rather than the shift-center-of-gravity strategy? Do you think the higher center of gravity will cause problems?
I'm also very impressed at how few pieces you were able to use to make a solid, lightweight frame.
I'm looking forward to seeing it working, and maybe even trying to build my own version with alternate electronics!
Nice! I was reading a review of that car yesterday, and was wondering when someone would do it in Technic, especially because the wheels looked so similar to the Daytona ones.
The upper part doesn't seem as high as my mental image of the real thing is, making the model here look a lot more station-wagon than SUV (though the real one is kind of in a grey area anyways), but that's probably a bit of a natural problem of trying to make a B-model of something that's actually bigger than the A-model.
40 minutes ago, Daniel-99 said:
I was thinking about automatic transmission for quite a while. Here are my thoughts:
- If you want to build a playable and durable RC Lego car, then you should avoid unnecessarily gears, giving as much power from motor to wheels as possible
- If you want to build a "realisitc" prototype, then it should have an "automat": a robot, that shift gears depending on the velocity and torque of wheels, detected by special sensors... Mechanical automatic transmission is not that realistic nowadays
Those are both very true observations!
I'd agree that no gearbox and minimum gears is definitely the best option for peak performance, though sometimes a two-speed can be enjoyable for a multi purpose machine.
I've built autos before, both mechanical and electrical, and I'd agree that electrical is much more practical, at least for gearboxes with 3+ gears. 2-speed planetary automatics can be somewhat practical, though, when made using a planetary hub.
That is interesting steering! I always love seeing those 14T gears being used.
1 hour ago, Lemon said:
I've printed Ninjaflex 85A with a stock Ender 3. The trick was to keep the extrusion consistent, so no retracts. It came out very nice, not significantly worse then DD, except you have to go very slow, I think I've printed it at 25 mm/s.
Yeah, my 95A worked fine, so I'd agree that you could make 85A work too with some care. Was that actually grippy, though?
29 minutes ago, aFrInaTi0n said:
Printed treads may be good for drifting then? ;)
I'm sure they would be, yeah!
6 hours ago, SaperPL said:
From my experience with TPU 95A, the TPU seems to not have really much more grip than PLA after the print and therefore I dropped the idea of printing tires after test on small scale. It does make sense if you want a neat static model as long as you can print tires neatly, but if you want an RC model, you might get disappointed in the effects. Unless you'll get special filament that is supposed to have grip maybe?
Yeah, my experience is the same. Nice and flexy, but not sticky at all. I imagine there are specialized sticky filaments that would work better, but they'd probably require better machines than my Ender 3 and old RepRap Prusa i3. At any rate I suppose you'd want a direct drive extruder at minimum!
11 hours ago, Sentinel said:
What about an automatic transmission?
It could be done, but it would probably run into the same issue if it had a wide ratio spread, and because the complexity of actually getting an automatic to work right is so high, and because the complexity of the diff lock isn't insignificant, stacking the two together would add too much friction and be too unreliable to be an ideal combination. It'd be very cool if someone could pull it off, though!
17 minutes ago, Lego Otaku said:
Anything shorter and the front clock face will fall down. The axle is going through gears as seen in the picture:
If I used smaller gears, then the ring wouldn't connect.
Is that axle supposed to be meshing with the gears? If not, it's going to lock up those 28T gears in that spacing
1 hour ago, Ngoc Nguyen said:
I would like to use a flexible part to model the safety belt on a car's seat.
The part should start from the bottom left corner and connect to the axle hole in the top right corner.
I don't know if it would work here, but I used some motor cables to simulate that one time.
4 hours ago, JoKo said:
Interresting idea mounting it close to the gearbox. you could event have a gearbox for the diff lock, it's not that more than disabling the lock
By the way are you going 2WD or 4WD?
Yeah, I could probably control a manual lock pretty easily from the gearbox, but I want to try this out, and I guess I don't care that I'm trying to make it work in a compact model where it's maybe not ideal!
It'll be 4WD.
[TC24] Space Police Contest - Information Topic
in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Ok, thank you!