2GodBDGlory

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Everything posted by 2GodBDGlory

  1. Is the universal joint going into the actuator working well at that extreme angle?
  2. Yeah, I've got two weight bricks, and I'm hoping to put them in. I'm sure they'll help, but unsure if it'll be enough.
  3. I don't think fitting it will be too hard, though I'll have to watch the height limit. It is more or less in scale, so the other stuff will hopefully work out, but I think the biggest problem is going to be stability.
  4. I like the thinking there! I don't know if you have any old 14T gears, but I think those run more smoothly with the 20T single bevel gears.
  5. That's the maximum; I believe Jim jokingly said in the general contest topic that the minimum was 1 cubic stud...
  6. Cool! That's a nice way to make the bare chassis you need for high performance have some interest, and retro appeal.
  7. Ok, thanks for doing the math for me! Sounds like that model just has some protrusions that drive up the volume without making it look much bigger.
  8. Well, in my testing with the differential, the 8T would kind of mesh, but it would have to be pushed back farther than the half stud it should theoretically be, which would make bracing it hard and likely cause it to skip because it wouldn't engage fully. Another idea could be to use the idea I put above, but instead of using the 28T gear, use a 16T gear and a chain to drive the 24T side of the differential. That would leave the firewall intact, but would end up giving you less total gear reduction. (If you happen to have the new non-beveled 20T gear it would help, but I don't think many people do yet)
  9. How did you come to that number? I'm planning a somewhat similar crane with sightly larger tires, and getting just under the limit. I'd be curious to see which dimensions yours exceeds mine in, to check that my numbers make sense.
  10. Hmm, I'd recommend checking if that 8T will actually mesh with the 16T on the differential correctly. The new style of 8T gear won't really work, because of the extra bumps on the side, and the old style still can't mesh completely. Maybe you can get something to work, but I'm a bit worried about that solution. Here's an alternate option, with a few different gearing options. I've got an 8T gear behind the 28T one, but you could go 20:12 or 16:16 there if you wanted. The only issues I can see are that it might be difficult to brace well, and you may not quite have room to fit the 28T gear without infringing on firewall space.
  11. Thanks for linking that article! I'm glad to hear that new parts should hopefully be available without an excessively long wait.
  12. Personally, I think Bricklink is a much better option for buying used sets, and sets that were generally unpopular (so not being collected) can be had very cheap at times, while still containing good parts. Maybe Ebay makes more sense for Americans, though; most sellers seem to charge an awful lot to ship it up to Canada.
  13. The ideal solution would be to use a 36T gear as the driver, because it's very close to being the right size to mesh with the 16T size in that combination. You'll have two problems with that, though. First, it'll make a hole in your firewall, but it looks like it wouldn't be too hard to remove the vertical 5L beam in it, and at least the gear is generally black, so it wouldn't stand out too much. Second, because of its double-bevel profile, it doesn't mesh properly with that side of the differential, though if you can find a way to offset it by somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2 studs it should work. Another issue with the current setup is that you don't have any great ways to brace that side of the differential, since its right next to the CV joint. Moving it back a little would be great, but then I think the 24T side would interfere with the motor, and the firewall would require a more extensive rebuild to fit the 36T gear. Sadly, nothing is looking simple about the process...
  14. Here is a presentation topic for my free book of Technic history, as requested by @Milan Backstory: As a child, I was fairly obsessive about Lego Star Wars, and spent immense amounts of time poring over my Visual Dictionaries and Character Encyclopedias. Later on, when I got into Lego Technic as a teenager, I was disappointed by the lack of any books cataloguing the Technic sets in a similar way. Due to various circumstances, in spring 2017, I found myself having a lot of spare time away from my Technic collection, so I decided to start writing a Technic book for myself as a sort of passion project. At first I was writing by hand on notebook paper, but once I had a full first draft written out, I began the process of typing, revising, and formatting the book. Finally, in late 2019, if I remember correctly, I had a completed book on my hands, so I printed myself a copy, which I've enjoyed a lot (though I think my younger self would have appreciated it more--or maybe just a self who hadn't become familiar with the subject through writing a book on it). A year later, after doing some more proofreading and adding the sets from 2020, I made it available on Eurobricks as a free download. Finally, just this week, I've released the 2021 edition, which is being presented here in a more orderly post than the old one. Features: -Introduction The book begins with a short paragraph explaining some of the reasons I wrote the book (sort of like the backstory I posted above, only shorter, and written by a younger self) -Timeline A favorite feature of the aforementioned Star Wars Visual Dictionaries was undoubtedly the timeline at the start, cataloging every Star Wars set of all time in a condensed form. Because of that, I knew I would have to include one in this book. Each page covers two years, and contains small profiles for each set containing the set number, name, part count, and image. This is a good way to quickly find out what year a set is from, and can also serve as a rudimentary set index. -Book Mechanics Next, I have a section that simply explains some things about the book, such as the "Data Files" included for each set, including a sample data file for a nonexistent dream set. -Yearly Introductions Now the book gets into the meaty section. The sets are ordered by year of release, and each year begins with a page providing an overview of the year. This generally includes a quick description of notable trends, subthemes, sets, parts, or stories from a given year. The page also includes an image of the year's "Flagship" set, as well as images of the new parts released that year. For most years, I utilized the images of a year's new parts from Blakbird's Technicopedia (More about that in the section on sources), which sometimes had different logic than I would have preferred, sometimes including previously released parts that were merely introduced into the Technic theme in the given year. Nonetheless, I find it quite interesting to track the development of the Technic part palette. -Set Profiles This is what the bulk of the book is made up of. Every Technic* set ever is included in these pages, with a large section of general information such as functions, aesthetics, or other information of interest, as well as at least one image and a "Data File" These Data Files list the set's name, set number, part count, price (when available), release, and alternate model. *Which sets are truly Technic sets can be somewhat ambiguous. In the end, I included any set badged as Technic that met my criterion of being a somewhat realistic model of real-world machinery, with the idea being to exclude such sets as early Bionicle and RoboRiders. I also included three Racers cars that are built of primarily Technic parts. Updates: I plan on releasing updates for this book every year for the foreseeable future. This will likely include adding the new sets for the year onto the end, updating the timeline, and fixing any mistakes that have come to my attention. Sources: My primary sources for this book were the unofficial online Lego catalogue, Brickset.com, and the invaluable fan-made Blakbird’s Technicopedia, which exhaustively covers all Technic sets 1977 to 2001. I also consulted Bricklink.com, the official Lego catalogues I received in the mail, and Google images (mainly for images of older alternate models). I feel that the information found on Blakbird’s Technicopedia often fell outside the realm of "common knowledge," so throughout the book I have cited certain pieces of information from this website with a (BT). This website was especially valuable, and I used not only its information, but also images of sets, and the renderings of the new parts from each year. I certainly could not have created this book without these sources, which I drew heavily from for both information and images! Terms of Use: Naturally, I would have liked to monetize on this time-consuming project, but its dependence on Lego's official images prevented me from doing so, so I am offering it online here for free. Feel free to download it and read it online, or print it out to read it as a paper copy, but just don't try to make money off of it. (You'll probably hear from Lego's lawyer about infringement on their images before you hear from me about infringement on my words!) Disclaimer: Not being a real author myself, this book is necessarily imperfect in style, especially because in this mere hobby project I'm not interested in doing the seemingly infinite rewritings I hear real authors do. More worrying, though, is the possibility that I may have gotten certain details wrong about sets, especially because I own very few of these sets. I would greatly appreciate it if any readers would notify me of any errors they find! Inspiration for Printing: Here are some images of the physical copy I printed myself. I printed it at the office my parents work at for 20c CAD per page, laminated the covers and punched the holes at Staples (an office supply store), and wound in the spiral binding myself. I like this setup because it wasn't complicated to make, seems durable, and can have new years added to it (It's a pain, but it's possible). Download Link: You should be able to download the book from this link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/146GuBJdz97X-KUeAncx57QT8zZKKov02/view?usp=sharing I hope you enjoy it!
  15. This should be cool to see! I don't recall ever seeing this kind of thing built with Technic, which makes it a fair bit cooler.
  16. Has that been done in past contests? I'd be curious to read up more on how it works.
  17. Cool to see a new contest starting! I've got one question about the rules, though. You state that the goal is to: But what do you mean by "Try to make it as official as possible"? Does that mean that we should try to make our entries in a similar style to an official set?
  18. The way I learned what skills I have was from both checking out MOCs online and reading books, but largely just trial and error. I was always pretty ambitious and tried to put too many functions that I didn't know how to build, into a MOC, but I built fast, then ripped it apart and started over. Maybe this wasn't the best way, but for me, doing a lot of building without wasting time worrying about the finished product, collecting parts, or what other people thought. I didn't get any good models out of this, but I got a lot of practice in a short time, allowing me to be able to build stuff that might be worth keeping (If I was willing to spend money to free up parts from my collection!)
  19. Well, my analysis is that in order to avoid hitting the firewall, the biggest possible driver gear is a 24T, if you can find a way to make the stud where its teeth rub something else, like a bush. If you want a differential in there, the smallest ring gear you can have is also going to be 24T, since I don't see how you can reverse the 24/16T one in that space without the 24T side rubbing the motor. Therefore, the fastest gearing you can get using a differential is 1:1, with a 24T gear meshing with another 24T gear on the differential. If you get rid of the differential, though, you have the option of moving the motor closer to the axle and gearing up with either 20:12 or 24:8. Either way, you could potentially put a second L motor on the front of the axle, though you may need the space for something else, and the torque may not be necessary with the low 1:1 ratio, at least.
  20. I got tired of waiting to acquire the AT-AT ring gears, and now that the B&P interface has changed and they're no longer on there, I decided to take matters into my own hands and 3D-print some of my own. That led to experiments to determine which gearing options worked with it, and in the end I found four options: 24:12:24, 20:20:20, 16:28:16, and 12:36:12, plus a bonus of 14:32:14 using a 3D-printed 32T gear: That got me wanting to try out options with the old 48T option from the Power Miners wheel, and in addition to the three options commonly known (20:8:20, 16:16:16, and 12:24:12), I noticed that by using retro 14T gears one can get 14:20:14 as well. This is also another area where the new non-beveled 12T and 20T gears will be handy, because my existing designs with beveled ones require the carrier to be set back half a stud, which would not be necessary with those. Finally, I decided to make a spreadsheet of all the possible combinations of gears for all possible ring gear sizes in multiples of 4 from 24 up to 60, using the formula that the sun and two planet gear tooth counts must add up to the ring gear tooth count. The takeaway here is that the 40T ring gear is likely the most practical for Technic MOCs, though it doesn't exist, because of its compromise of many ratios and small size, while the 60T we did just get is rather disappointing in that it doesn't even have five possibilities like 52 and 56 because two of its ratios happen to land on gears we're missing, with the 32T and the 44T both working theoretically. 56 would also have an extra possibility with a 32T gear. With this in mind, I'll think about designing and printing a 40T ring gear housing and designing a more realistic automatic-style planetary transmission, though I've got plenty of other projects I'm interested in.
  21. I don't think it's going to be legal, but I know I've done it with the similar 64589 connector!
  22. Thanks! It's not really suitable for Rebrickable, though, because not only would the complexity deter all but a few people, but the unreliability and need for constant troubleshooting by someone with a deep understanding of the machine would make it extremely frustrating for the few who might build it. Perhaps one day I'll come up with something practical enough for that, though!
  23. So, after posting my tongue-in-cheek "Electrical Calculator," I'm back with my third version of an actual mechanical calculator, the affectionately named Technivac III. This one is a development of the ideas I've started in my last two calculators, combing the differential-adder mechanism of my original calculator with the extra digits (four total) and carry mechanism of V2. Overall, I'm still not happy with it, because a late addition I hadn't anticipated needing ended up bringing the levels of backlash past the acceptable level, but it is my best one yet, and I do have a completely different idea for V4, should I ever decide to build it (namely, measuring numbers with linear motion rather than rotary motion.) Anyways, I'll try to explain this thing, but it's very complicated, so I may not succeed. I've also got a video at the bottom, so that's an option too. To try to keep my description in order, I'll propose an outline here: I. Theory A. Power Supply B. Gearboxes C. Spirals/Buttons D. Adders E. Locks F. Carry Mechanism G. Dials H. Reset II. Results So, (gulp) let's start: I. Theory A. Power Supplies The first thing in the mechanism is the power supplies, which provide the power to rotate everything down the line. This calculator differed from my previous ones in being primarily crank-driven, which helped because the user could be intelligent about how much torque was needed at different times. There was also a PF L-motor running the setup through two clutch gears, but it didn't seem possible to tune it to slip the clutches when the buttons were pushed but still have enough torque to work the carry mechanism, so I generally just left it disconnected and ignored it. The motor was reversible, as was the crank. B. Gearboxes There were two main gearboxes before the spirals. The first of these was a simple distribution gearbox operated by the Num 1/Num 2 lever, allowing the user to switch between powering the upper and lower sets of spirals, which resulted in either the first or second number being inputted. The second gearbox only applied to the second number, and was a simple forward/reverse gearbox allowing one to choose between inputting a positive and negative number. I didn't need one of these on the first number, because the calculator doesn't work with negative numbers, so there is no need to input a negative as the first number. It was operated by moving the red axle up and down. Because when the spirals were reversed, the prongs sticking out from the shaft would be pressing against the opposite side of the axle pushed down by the number buttons, they were offset by a fair bit, so to ensure that the correct numbers were still inputted when subtracting, I added a lever that allowed me to change the labels of the numbers when subtracting. Essentially, I had to reverse the order, and offset it by two. C. Spirals/Buttons The basic working principle of this calculator, as in my previous ones, is the "spiral," or axle with protrusions as close to every 10 degrees as I could get. I ran out of the old toothed connectors with this calculator, since eight spirals were needed (Two per digit, since I needed one for both the first and second numbers.), so I have a few 3D-printed stand-ins, which are only "cheating" in that they allowed me to save money, since they have no functional advantage here (they may be stronger, but that wasn't important.) The buttons worked similarly to before, with axles coming down from each button to block the spiral at a specific degree, but I also had them connected to long vertical axles, which pushed rocker arms, which pushed up more axles in the opposite direction, to block the lower spiral from the bottom. Again, as in the past, it is set up so that pressing any button will press down a linkage that engages a driving ring on the spirals corresponding to that digit. D. Adders The adders here are easier to understand (I think) than those in V2, and allow for the reversing to happen before the spirals, cutting backlash, but also introduce some backlash of their own. They are a simple differential mechanism, using the 24/16t differentials to add up the outputs from the top and bottom spirals for each digit. Drive was transferred to them in most cases by a pair of 24T gears on each side of the diff (the units place used a 16:8:16 gearing in order to reduce the direction, because it didn't have secondary reversing in the carry mechanism), and the differential's 24T side then drove a 12T gear, which doubled the speed to correspond for the halving of speed caused by driving one of a differential's traditional outputs. E. Locks The adding mechanism was nice and simple, but after building it, I realized that when one spiral drove an input, it might drive the dial as it should, but it could easily just send the power out through the other input, backdriving the other spiral. To prevent this from happening, I had to add a selectable lock to lock the unused input. This was done by sliding bevel gears (20Ts for the units place, 12Ts for the rest) which were attached slidably but not rotatably (real words, and awesome ones) by having their drive axle slide through the side axle hole on gear lever parts. These gears would mesh with gears on the input shafts one at a time, locking them up. They were controlled by a lever marked Num 1 and Num 2, which was actually mechanically connected to the lever for the Num 1/Num 2 gearbox, so you could get away by just pushing this lever, though it was best to push both. This lever moved a bunch of linkages to allow for the sliding of these axles. F. Carry Mechanism I thought the carry mechanism would be a fairly simple stepper mechanism using 10T splat gears, so that's what I built. Like a fool, I had started filming before testing the carrying (I'm kind of paranoid about testing, to my own loss), discovered that it took far too much effort, thought about solutions, and realized another problem (namely, that when carrying, it would backdrive the spiral for the next number, which would cause a button press in that digit to add an incorrect amount, essentially negating the carry.) I then had a fun little evening of thinking and came up with a solution that worked in theory. I then built it, and fell in love with its relative elegance--it was really one of the most thrilling "Eureka!" moments of my Technic career. This solution was to retain the basic 10T stepper, but to use the splat gears as a basis for a custom differential, and to set up the gears so that instead of moving a full tooth (1/10 rev), it would only rotate a half tooth (1/20 rev) when triggered. This wasn't repeatable, but it didn't have to be, since this calculator only does one operation before resetting it. The reason I had to halve the rotation is because of the doubling of speed of the output when driving the carrier while holding one output, as was happening here. The output then drove the lever for the stepper for the next digit. Additionally, the differentials were locked in place by two different methods. There was one spring-loaded beam on the bottoms that pressed a flick-missile bar between the teeth, locking it. When the lever that engaged it neared the point where it actually stepped a tooth, the round end of a gear selector part bumped the lock out of its locked position, allowing it to rotate 1/20th of a rotation, at which point the upper spring-loaded beam moved down, locking the gear again with two offset connectors. The whole locking mechanism didn't work as well in theory as I'd hoped, but I thought it was clever nonetheless. Anyways, the reason that this worked while my simple solution didn't is that the output dial could move independently of its spiral when being carried, because of the differential. This part's late addition did add a lot of backlash within the spider gears, as well as wiggling of the carrier. G. Dials The dials were just basic dials based on tires. There's not much to say about them, except that the direction was reversed with each place. H. Reset In order to reset the calculator, each spiral had to be engaged by selecting the correct gearbox settings and engaging its driving ring by either pushing some button that didn't interfere or just pushing the linkage manually. The crank was then rotated backwards until its spiral hit its stop. This was all pretty simple, but the stops themselves are a bit more complex. The ones for the first number weren't too complex, with a 3L half-beam rotating until it hits a T-beam. This T-beam has a slight bit of movement allowed to it, resulting in the stop being engaged when the 3L half-beam is vertical no matter which direction it comes from. The top had a similar working principle, except that the 3L half-beam equivalent (connector, 2L axle, and half-bush) had to be able to rotate backwards past center when subtracting, which was not possible with a "dumb" stop like on the bottom. As it turns out, in order for the stop to work, the T-beam has to be right next to something (1L beam on the first number), so on the top I set up a fancy linkage connected to a lever that moved one of the pinhole/axle connectors one stud, allowing the stop to be disengaged under operation, or for it to be engaged while reversing. It was spring-loaded to unlock by default, but I had an extra little control that let me lock it in the engaged position as well. It was a weird mechanism, but it worked! II. Results In the end, like I said, accuracy was poor, with there generally being a +/-1 inaccuracy per digit, which is enough to render this calculator useless (if it weren't already! ). Also, I am doubtful that more than one carry at the same time would have worked. Otherwise I think everything worked, such as adding and subtracting, carrying a single digit, inputting the numbers, and resetting it. I'm not too disappointed with this result, since it's extremely complicated, though it isn't the end of my calculator mission as I'd hoped... Oh well, V4 will probably also be fun to build! More pictures here: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/technivac-iii
  24. Thanks! You're referring to my post from a few days ago? I did actually program that calculator shown in the video there, but the idea was for it to just be funny that I did such a useless thing without the appeal of it's being mechanical. Thank you! It did take a lot of parts, but surprisingly little math. The tricky part was just in covering simple math operations into workable mechanims. Yeah, the backlash was disappointing. The nice thing here was that any backlash before the spirals didn't affect accuracy, but even with that it ended up being too much. Yeah, this is totally overkill for the basic math it can go, but I at least haven't been able to think of any way to simplify the design, though as I mentioned I've got vague ideas for one using linear motion instead, which could change a lot, and get rid of a lot of backlash. I've even got hopes that the working principle will allow me to add multiplication and division for the first time, but that'd be pretty hard.
  25. Yeah, Wranglers do default to RWD, and some generations (JK at least) were sold in a solely RWD version. The live axles are a worthwhile feature!