mudseason

Eurobricks Vassals
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About mudseason

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    technics
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    42093

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    Italy

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  1. mudseason

    AWD - independent axles

    Thanks Astyanax for the info, very interesting. I removed the wheel to check it and, that's exactly how it works. Just less than half a stud total motion for complete excursion. Beside this, the system has a double offset: on the wheel hub side it is outward on the car body side is inward; I do not know if this is "averaging" so that the sliding effect is minimized. As 'm trying to mod the front axle I fear I cannot exploit this workaround due to the steering mechanism. The top arm pivot cannot be pushed to the right (see my picture), but... may be there's a solution: in the drawing I'm using the old female/male on the car body side. The female seems to be 3 studs long. However the new CV female joint seems being 4 studs long. If this is true then I would have full alignment on the pivot points.
  2. mudseason

    AWD - independent axles

    Question, in the "original" model the rear pivot points, for the suspensions, are one stud off (inward) from the pivot point of the CV joint. There are two pairs of lift arms two above and two below, symmetric to the CV joint. This is the picture (for simplicity it reports only one arm, but you can see that the arm connects one stud inward re- the actual CV joint). http:// Is that sub optimal, and the suspension pivot shall be exactly on the same line as the cv mating? In the 42099 all CV joints and suspension pivots are exactly aligned. Now, leaving aside the drawings, back to real life, I have the car in my hands, and the rear suspensions... work like a charm. My conclusion is that one stud offset is sub optimal in terms of freedom of movements, but for a racing car the limited working angle is acceptable. Under the above assumption, I planned this kind of solution for the front, as you can see the pivot point is offset one stud (outward): http:// What do you think? Thanks a lot for the support you all are providing. Cheers.
  3. mudseason

    AWD - independent axles

    I have the 42099... just copyed the idea from that very model. Regarding the wheel hubs, it looks like that to have the joint where the steering pivot is I should couple in the following way: Wheel + Portal Axle then... 92909(Hub)-> 32494(CV Joint M, old) -> connecting axle -> 52731(CV Joint M, new)-> 52730(CV Joint F, new) So I will need to use the old CV male joint to the hub as the only hub that directly supports the new CV male joint is the one with planetary of 42099. Would you confirm that?
  4. mudseason

    AWD - independent axles

    I see the issue with the pivot for steering. I will fix it,it is quite obvious now that you said it. I will def use the new CV joints, I just miss them in my library. Furthermore, the second steering link is not "driven" and does not use a gear rack, just a lift arm sliding. The one driven is only the one on the front. The 8 tooth gears are only used to lower the axle. Thanks a lot. Cheers. P.S. I removed the pictures in previous post, I could not stand their vision... ahaha Thanks again I will correct it, most probably by using a different wheel hub and including. Just to be very clear, the drawing is intended have a rough picture and buying the parts and spot big mistakes like you did, I will then experiment with actual parts.
  5. mudseason

    AWD - independent axles

    And this is my attempt. I expect it to be full of naïve and/or wrong implementations, in case you think anything is wrong or should be differently done, do not hesitate to suggest different solutions. Some note: - white parts are from the original car and I preferably do not move them (some cannot be actually moved as support other parts). - the wheel hub is the part 23801, but I do not have it in my LDCad library. - check the steering solution; the original car (it is the Mantis model by astyanax) has not the double link solution, I wonder if the added bar would just make it more complex without benefit or it could help - to save time I just partially completed one side, and skipped the very obvious connections with pins. I do not know how to upload the LDCad file, I'll keep it on my Gdrive for a while: Mant6_front_axle_20200526.ldr Here some pictures: [picture removed as I could not stand the vision] ;) Thanks, Cheers.
  6. mudseason

    AWD - independent axles

    thanks to all... back to modding then. byez.
  7. Hello everyone. I would like to modify a RWD lego racing car (1:8) with the addition of a power block (2 motors) driving the front axle. Front axle will be provided with a differential. Real axle also has its own differential. I have the following quite basic question. Would the system work if the rear power block and the front one are not connected at all? The two power blocks are geared up identical, of course, nevertheless I fear that one axle would push the other one to scratch due to small velocity/torque differences if not connected. Then I see lots of IWD vehicles which is even a further extremization of the concept. Thanks a lot for any indication. Cheers.
  8. mudseason

    ZR1 42093 MOC

    I understand, suspensions do not add anything functional at this scale for the type of car. I figured out the min. width I can achieve (still with a fake piece: I would cut and glue two CV joints) is 21 studs, 25 with all original pieces. This means that such decision will force myself into modding the external rear part, and this will be a fun exercise. Motor placement is already decided by the instructions. If it won't work I will just revert to the original mod (the motorized version is already a mod) with fixed axles and enjoy it as it is. Thanks to all, I will let you know the result.
  9. mudseason

    ZR1 42093 MOC

    I really see your point and I appreciate your availability. Regarding how to properly install the CV joints, you assume I have no idea, however I have some, (at least for simply suspensions schema). I knew the U-joint placed like that was sort of "hack" with little-no hope to work. The schema I have in mind is similar to the 42096 model and to the 42099 one: I just built the Efferman's mod, it's Efferman's fault if, after 30+ years, I'm starting putting bricks together again . Coming back to this new build, I have issues with the total width as I would like to maintain some proportion in the model: +2 studs per side are ok, +3 are a bit on the edge. +4 is a no. I checked a lot of posts of the TC18 family, they are very informative in fact for the front I found an amazing solution by one of the forum users. His solution for the rear axle (floating differential) did not convinced me 100% I need also to fit the electric part and motors, thus I would prefer something fixed, at the expenses of increasing the total width a bit. About putting down the digital designer I also agree with you, I use the designer for pieces I do not have in my hands, but building them for real is the most effective way to learn. Unfortunately I do not have U-joints at the moment. I'm trying to make an idea with the help of the few pieces I have, LCad and your suggestions, then I will buy some piece to experiment with. Cheers.
  10. mudseason

    ZR1 42093 MOC

    yes, I can hardly stop laughing. TC21... I also understood the joke about falling asleep for long time. Anyhow, in the above schema I would miss any suspensions movement, correct? What about the crazy Idea to create a 4/5L CV joint by cutting gluing together two 3L CV ball joints? Thanks.
  11. mudseason

    ZR1 42093 MOC

    Title modified! Thanks a lot for the explanation of TC18, I fell really dumb... it was just a progressive number... shame on me. About the meaning for MOC it is clear. I do not know if you're arguing if a MOC shold or shouldn't be 100% "own" or in case of starting from an actual set it would be better to call it a MOD. I'm really not interested in such discussion. What I was concerned about was clearly described when talking about the aligning of joints to suspension pivots: clearly I would nee two joints as there are two pivots. I will try something different the design won't work. Ah, I posted as I lack both the experience and the parts to do the experiment, you have to start somewhere and I will do a bit of both. Thanks a lot for the hints, I will report any progress. regards, f.
  12. mudseason

    ZR1 42093 MOC

    first of all sorry if the title is not the correct one. I thought it was referred to the total width of the model. I will change it by removing the [] part. About image, I can only upload up to 100k images, then I used imgurl. If I got you right ONE single joint won't never-ever work even if the displacement of the suspension is around 1 stud, am I right? I fail to understand if: it is a problem of effectiveness (reduced) / fragility it cannot work at-all Thanks a lot. Another option could be to switch to the ball joint and make an illegal piece by stacking (gluing) two 3L CV joints (32494) one against the other and maintain the total length to 4 or 5L only.
  13. mudseason

    ZR1 42093 MOC

    Hello, I'm starting a project to modify the ZR1 42093. The plan is to modify it with: the Racing Brick Buwizz 2L motors MOC a full independent suspension front and rear axles. To include the suspensions I will most probably need to: get rid of the fake motor make the rear of the car larger 2 studs per side. For the front: I saw a beautiful suspension mechanism for the front from one of the users here (it's a [TC18] thread) I would like to implement his solution. For the rear: I attach a couple of images, this is my first attempt with LDCad. The rear suspensions are more for a visual effect, their travel will be one stud more or less. The "rest" position of the axle is nearly horizontal. I cannot place anything over the axle as there's the 8stud buwizz mounted above (with half stud clearance). Questions for you experts: Is the 3L joint an acceptable compromise for the vertical suspension motion? I know I should use two joints, but I would like not to increase the size to 25 studs. would the 3L joint survive the two L motors in parallel? Or should I look for "metal-semi-illegal" parts? would you suggest a different approach? I'm not going to place a floating differential, in case of failure I will just use a straight axle and call it a day and having the suspensions just for visual. thanks a lot. Rear Axle 01 Rear Axle 01 - Top Rear Axle 01 - motor view
  14. mudseason

    [TC18] Dart

    Yeah I see, one of my issues is in fact the availability of parts in LDD: I can't find the wheel support you're using (I think it is 32186) and also other parts that I would need. I downloaded LDCad and library, seems working. If you could, please share the file so that I can check parts and mod it to fit the ZR1. Thanks a lot again.
  15. mudseason

    [TC18] Dart

    oh, I was looking for a way to incorporate front suspension in my 42093. That's seems a neat design, do you have LDD file for that?