• Announcements

    • Bonaparte

      Eurobricks Event 2018, Billund Denmark   12/09/17

      As 2018 is coming closer we have posted everything you need to know about our next Eurobricks Event. You can find all information and the sign-up topic in our event forum. Eurobricks Event 2018 - Information Topic

Shupp

Eurobricks Vassals
  • Content count

    43
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Shupp

  1. Custom 3d Printed Steam Drivers

    I've gotten mostly positive feedback and some helpful suggestions from the community since I started offering these wheels. Thanks, everyone! I have had a couple requests for more types of wheels, and I finally got around to making some. First up, XL sized Boxpok drivers: XL Boxpok Driver by Shuppiluliumas, on Flickr These are available flanged, with or without traction tire groove, blind, and all can be had with either a larger or smaller counterweight. I have also made a size of wheel between large and XL: Large/XL Driver by Shuppiluliumas, on Flickr These are available as spoked drivers right now, but there will probably be a Boxpok available soon. They also come flanged with or without traction tire groove, blind and with small or large counterweight. I have not yet tested any of these, but I haven't changed any critical dimensions from previous wheels, so hopefully they work as well as the others. Everything can be found at my Shapeways store. https://www.shapeways.com/shops/shupp-s-brick-train-stuff I've also added new colors and materials for all of my wheels. Shapeways now offers a premium black strong and flexible, which is about 2x the cost of regular. If anyone tries it, I'd love to hear how they work out. I'm also offering metallic plastic, which is an identical process to Benn Coifman's custom side rods, and the wheels should look the same as those rods. Most of the colored plastic does not closely align with Lego colors unfortunately, but they might provide a better base if you intend to paint the wheels to match Lego. Cale has done this on his Blue Comet model recently, and the wheels seem to take paint well.
  2. Custom 3d Printed Steam Drivers

    They're done. And based roughly off the later SP cab forwards, seeing as I had no other prototypes in mind. I made variants with large and small counterweights, flanged blind, and with and without traction tire grooves. Haven't tested them in person, so I can't guarantee how well they work. Large Boxpok Driver by Shuppiluliumas, on Flickr https://www.shapeways.com/shops/shupp-s-brick-train-stuff?section=Large+Train+Wheels&s=0 XL Boxpoks coming soon!
  3. I agree with zephyr that friction is usually the limiting factor. 1 L motor should be able to pull an engine of that size and a few cars without too much trouble. In my experience, the best way to check for friction is to remove the motor for a while and check things by hand. Pick up the locomotive and check that the wheels spin freely. Push the locomotive through curves and switches by hand and see if you feel resistance. Sometimes a gear will just be too tight on an axle and prevent free spinning. Sometimes the way you have connected the pilot or pony truck to your drive wheels will cause binding in curves or switches. As you also say, friction in your other cars could also be an issue. I disagree that if adding cars makes the train slow down a lot, it must because the motor is too weak, though. If friction in the drive and articulation is not a problem, a lot of the motor's power can be lost if it is able to move or flex at all. I think this is usually more of an issue than lack of power in the motor itself. Motors need to be securely attached to their driven axles. I like to check for this by stalling the motor. Basically by picking up the locomotive, turning it on to full power and stopping the wheels slowly with my fingers. Does the motor twist or lift up from the frame? Do the gears start slipping? If so, that same thing is probably happening when you're running, and you're losing a lot of power there. Note that you can twist axles and break gears doing this, but I think it's worth it! If none of that works, I think you would be best off getting one (or two if you have room in your tender design) PF train motors and putting them under your tender instead of the L motor. Change the stock rubber on the LEGO wheels to plumbing o-rings and make the tender as heavy as you can. You can pull pretty heave trains at high speed with one of those motors. Echoing what others have said, electrically, the IR receiver is the weak link, and is limiting current to the motors. V2 IR receivers are a little expensive, but worth it in my opinion. Sbricks have the same motor driver circuits as V2 receivers if I recall, and also allow much more current through. Plus in an sbrick, each channel has its own driver IC, so the overall current limit is higher. I think your issue can be fixed with mechanical tweaking though, and you probably don't need to change electrical parts. I typically only hit the IR receiver current limit running 2 XL motors.
  4. Custom 3d Printed Steam Drivers

    I've added all of shapeway's polished color options to all my wheels. I have never ordered polished pieces so I don't know how they will come out, but if anyone wants to try them and let me know, that'd be awesome. I have done it and uploaded them. No idea how they will work, so some brave soul gets to be the first to test them! I intend to do this at some point. The boxpok designs take a little longer to do, but I would like some as well. I will post here again when I get them done.
  5. Custom 3d Printed Steam Drivers

    I'm glad to hear the fit was good. As for how well they hold up under wear, we have run some of these drivers at our last train show with no problems so far. I haven't seen any problems in the tests I've done, but they are still pretty new. Definitely let me know how they hold up for you if you run them a lot.
  6. Custom 3d Printed Steam Drivers

    I have added several more types to my shop: Medium sized flanged and blind drivers with no pin M-L sized flanged and blind drivers with no pin Large sized flanged and blind drivers with no pin M-L thin train wheel Large thin train wheel https://www.shapeways.com/shops/shupp-s-brick-train-stuff Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I can probably do that. Are you thinking of a thin train wheel, or a tick driving wheel? The first one is probably easier, but a thick driver may also be possible.
  7. Custom 3d Printed Steam Drivers

    Well, I don't have a standard sized wheel design worked up yet, so that would take a little longer, but it's doable. I've never seen wheels like the ones you're describing with springs. That sounds interesting. I use SolidWorks myself. Just what I happened to have access to. Models for wheels are probably basic enough that most CAD programs are up to the task. I had no idea libraries had this sort of thing. That's really interesting.
  8. Custom 3d Printed Steam Drivers

    I am pretty new to Shapeways myself, but I believe they ship to most countries. As for talking to Ben Fleskes, I have not. I was in contact with him a little when he was making the XL wheels, because it was something I was very interested in having. At that time, he did not seem interested in anything larger, because of the issues with them binding in R40 curves. Maybe with all the wider curve options available today, it might be more feasible to make them. I guess it would be worth asking him about. I myself don't know much about injection molding except that it costs a lot of money to make molds! I think an ML without counterweight would be possible in the future. It's pretty easy to change 3d files like that. I do have an M sized train wheel available that can be used for that. No counterweight or pin hole, though I can understand maybe wanting even larger wheels like that for some models. If I add new things to the store, I will try to post them in here.
  9. Several members of my club have discussed the need/desire for larger and different sized train wheels, and the possibility of 3d printing them. Earlier this year, I was down with a back injury for a while, so I used the time to figure out some 3d design fundamentals and make my own. I don't have any 3d printing equipment so I put them on shapeways for my own use. I have had a couple requests for these since word got out that I made them, so I set up a shapeways store: www.shapeways.com/shops/shupp-s-brick-train-stuff I have made XXL sized (the next size up from Ben Fleskes' XL sized), a size between medium and large, and a medium diameter train wheel i.e. not a steam driver, just a thin train wheel but with a larger diameter. XXL Flanged Driver by Shuppiluliumas, on Flickr These are being offered at cost (I make no money) because I cannot guarantee the fit of the pin and axle holes and other aspects of the production which are out of my control, nor can I make any easy changes that would solve the problem. I don't know if I will be making any more different designs, and I probably won't make any changes to the existing ones at this point, but feel free to suggest ideas anyway. Again, I'm not putting these out here for my profit, but just because I already had them myself, and I figured I should share them, and I don't have a ton of time to devote to it. I have these notes in the store as well, but I will repost them here: The ML sized wheels do not 'align' with other sizes of LEGO train wheels. If you have a standard small LEGO train wheel, a medium sized driver, a large, and XL and my XXL size drivers running on LEGO train track, the centers of each bigger sized wheel will be one LEGO plate higher off the track than the next smallest. As such ML drivers are not really 'in system' and may cause problems in some designs where multiple wheel sizes are used. XXL sized wheels, while I think they are the right scale for many LEGO steam engine models, are a little too big for standard R40 LEGO curve track. If one were to use them in a flanged-blind-flanged arrangement to make, for example, a Pacific type locomotive, the two flanged wheels will be so far apart that they will bind in curves. The XXL wheels do work well when two flanged wheels are placed next to one another but, for other arrangements, you will need to look into after market wider radius curves if you are looking to run with these wheels. There are several options out there for wider radius curves, so maybe the curve issue is less important now than it once was.
  10. Really beautiful MOC! I'm glad I could help with the nose design and windows some. Fantastic job with the colors and striping too, especially since dark blue can be a tougher color to build with!
  11. Custom 9V tracks

    Yay! Wider guide rail. It was great to meet you at Brickworld. I think we all left feeling like these switches could really work. PennLUG has already found spots for half a dozen of them on our layout, so we are eagerly anticipating future updates!
  12. Brick-built monorail

    Hey! That's my suspended monorail! Yeah, that's one option, and it runs pretty well. Now that there are PF L motors I want to build a new one sometime Well, I don't know that mine inspired it at all, but here is a video of that other suspended design. I want to try this sometime too!
  13. Nice parts, but they are not released?

    That was my feeling as well. Looks like we're in luck, though. Check out the pink tiles on the shoulder pieces.