amorti

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by amorti

  1. Then it sounds very likely you're right. I've actually been using CaDA friction pins as steering bearings on RC motorcycles, because they have nearly no friction but much less play then Lego non-friction pins or axles.
  2. I haven't built the static, but the motor version. I think you'd lose quite a lot with the static version, because the gear stepper mechanism and attached shift paddles won't work which is a real highlight of the model. Also the gearbox becomes another display piece like the Sian but the fact of it being basically a pair of identical gearboxes to handle the two powerful motors become redundant. It's so much more interesting when a car moves itself. Without motors, it's more or less "just another" 1:8 car. I usually can't stand big cars because of all the boring work of putting panels together at funny angles with tenuous connections, but this car turned my preconception on its head. The doors are a masterpiece of clever angles, yet they're also truly stable. There are examples like that all around the car. Buy it! You won't regret. If you have the extra 40€ or so spare, I'd say to get the motorised version. Even if you only drive it along the living room and shift through the gearbox once before putting it in the display cabinet, it was worth those 40€.
  3. Bruno's dropped some hints in the thread, that there's another set on its way. I've also been reading on the alt-bricks board that CaDA has been quietly updating the moulds of some pieces, particularly those loose axle connectors. Potentially good news all round!
  4. @astyanax The problem I had was the one time I persuaded the missus to make a video, I'd already been playing with the car and it had only 7.6v left on each battery, which is pretty near dead. Volt for volt, CaDA motors are nearly twice as fast as Lego. 715rpm vs 388rpm at 9v. If you crank the Lego motor up to 11.2v I guess you have +/- 485rpm, which is still a lot less than the CaDA motor gives at the 8.4v a freshly-charged CaDA battery can deliver. And that's not hollow rpm - there's more torque than a Lego motor has, too. But yes, of course that costs more amps. You can't spin 4 of these motors at Ludicrous with 2x buwizz 2, same as you couldn't run 4x buggy motors that way. Why not give the CaDA motors a try? I don't see a big difference in using third party motors which are an upgrade to Lego's, if you're already using Buwizz as an upgrade to Lego IR boxes. https://www.custombricks.de/motors-cables-sbrick/cada-power-functions-l-motor.html?language=en I guess really I need to try and make a video with a pair of CaDA motors and a pair of buwizz at Ludicrous. I'll put it on the to-do list!
  5. CaDA Pro motors are a lot stronger than Lego motors, both in torque and speed. I really don't know if it would come out faster with 4x Lego motors or 2x CaDA motors, but I suspect the CaDA motors would win. The price for this extra power, is higher current consumption. You can't run two of them at Ludicrous speed at all on a buwizz 2.0, and even Fast will trip the fuse pretty often. If you ever tried running two Buggy motors on a single buwizz, you'll have a good idea what to expect. So, if wanted to try "just" changing the batteries, you'd need to fit two buwizz 2.0, and hook each drive motor to a separate one. I have the stuff here to try it, although I never tried it yet. Here's a video with 4x CaDA Pro motors and 2x CaDA batteries. The gears were given the "light" modification described by Bruno above, where you just swap the ratios behind the differential housing. It had power to spare, but the differential was getting clicky so I didn't press for more speed. In the end, for me, this is an indoors model. Too many small pieces to lose by driving it outdoors, and near zero ground clearance, so I just put it back to original and used my extra CaDA motors elsewhere.
  6. The only gears I notice get bad wear, where on the CaDA differential. Think I covered that above, the teeth on it aren't as good as Lego's.
  7. amorti

    Strengthening U-Joints

    I've done that trick too, but you just push the failure point along, and they will split in the middle. This will of course happen more frequently with MouldKing black furious or CaDA pro motors, which bring more torque than Lego motors.
  8. amorti

    Strengthening U-Joints

    Still, some models are guaranteed to snap one the moment you try to drive them up a curb and steer at the same time, or everytime you hit reverse at full speed, etc. That gets boring, and IME leads to giving up on that model.
  9. amorti

    [MOC] RC Buggy by A_C

    Well, it runs on buwizz, so that's 11.2v which would give somewhere over 1030rpm. I'll accept a mutual loss
  10. amorti

    [MOC] RC Buggy by A_C

    @Andman you've come from 2.5-4 to nearly 6, but you're still wrong - one of us read Philo's page wrong (it was you). I'd like to know how you get 1° of camber in Lego on purpose, unless it means 1° of slack either direction from square.
  11. amorti

    [MOC] RC Buggy by A_C

    Am I missing something, or does "1° camber" actually mean "I didn't make a strong rear axle"? 56mm tyres * pi for circumference * 1240rpm on a buggy motor at 9v * 20/28 reduction on the differential * 60 minutes in an hour / 1,000,000 mm in a km =9.3km/h With so few parts I'm betting it'll rip.
  12. amorti

    Strengthening U-Joints

    This is fine until you start really pushing your luck, e.g. ludicrous mode, XL motors straight into uni joints, etc. Here's your solution.
  13. Did you get the planetary hubs already? Speed up the drivetrain, reduce the torque going through it, maybe save a few axles?
  14. Speed is just torque with different gearing. The new box can power buggy motors a little faster than the old box, and can power a pair, which tells you it brings more to the table. Should mean you can have the same torque at higher speed, or even more torque at the same speed. Potentially with the benefit of only carrying one battery instead of two. For me the big advantage is steering by C+ motor. Lego Servos are junk (always have been), the new motors are way better.
  15. amorti

    Grohl's Creations

    I bought this set just to build your alternates - same as I did with the Corvette. It's clear you struggled for pins with the Kingfisher, but it's amazing what you created with the limited parts available, and so unexpected from the base model!
  16. I bought the mini Claas on a whim yesterday. Not a single System brick in there.
  17. amorti

    [MOC] REXX Truck 1:15

    Awesome. Wicked turn of speed for something that's twice as big and heavy as a big/heavy MOC.
  18. amorti

    [MOC] Small Rat Rod

    Welcome back :) Could the tiles ahead of the windshield be 3/3/3 instead of 2/4/1/2? It's triggering my symmetry OCD a bit.
  19. Not sets, but there are full-size models out there without system pieces. Pretty sure this has none at all. https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-40950/astyanax/koncept-mantis/#details
  20. Great stuff here. Amazing how fluid it moved. If you want more power for no effort, come over to the dark side. https://www.custombricks.de/motors-cables-sbrick/cada-power-functions-l-motor.html These guys have near double the speed of a Lego L motor, and draw somewhere around double the current. It's not just empty revs neither, the torque is also a lot more.
  21. amorti

    [WIP] Orion - 1:10 racecar

    On the rear axle, is the grey spring a "heave spring"? It seems like if one wheel goes up, it'll force the other down. Isn't that the opposite of an anti-roll bar?
  22. I haven't built that many larger cars, being limited to the 911 RSR and Bruno's red one. The Lego RSR was the first thing - panels lobbed together however it worked out, lots of gaps, and generally flimsy and lame. It put me off large cars completely. Bruno's red one changed my mind.
  23. amorti

    RC Cheap Baja bike

    I can't see an elegant way to do it with Lego. If you had CaDA pieces you could build yourself a 5*5 frame for the bevel box, then with a CaDA metal universal joint straight out the motor into that. it would be 5L 'flip flop' liftarms towards the motor, regular 5L liftarms at the back, and those pin-liftarms at the top and bottom. These things, but as a 3L Liftarm plus 2L of pins. They exist, I just can't find a picture. It would then be two 3*3 'T' Liftarms on either side for the swingarm pivot, attached into the pin holes on the motors. Would work perfectly, within the same dimensions you have now. I think. But with only Lego pieces? Idk... Not easy, at least not without losing ground clearance, and certainly not with elegance like you could do it with CaDA pieces.
  24. amorti

    RC Cheap Baja bike

    Tyres have arrived! I made the forks 1L wider, because otherwise the tyres touch the springs. This one picks itself up really quick from off the floor, it only gets around a quarter turn on the floor, and away it goes. That CaDA motor is honestly a beast. It'll launch itself into the furniture / cat at pretty high speed, which is when the forks fly apart. So I added a fair bit of strength in the fork triples (click for big) It's still not as rigid as the Fast Bike, but that's because the steering neck is just that 5L liftarm, and liftarms flex.