The_Tinkerer

I just acquired set 8649 Nitro Menace a wanted to ask everyone, Are these old Racers sets Technically Technic? Obviously the brick-built ones aren't, but the larger ones are built very similarly to the Technic sets of the time, just without as many functions. Picture for good measure

To muddy the waters further...

I've been testing my 51515 hub and motors to see if it's worthwhile to build a remote control car with them, but the latency is terrible. I'm using the standard six-port hub, four motors, connected via bluetooth to my Pixel 3A XL. There's a noticeable lag between the joystick movement and the motors starting to turn. To add to this the motors don't all start at the same time. Is there a way to fix this?

I have several questions regarding PoweredUP/Control+ and Mindstorms, and as the Mindstorms help topic went down with the ship, I think I'll start a new one. Do all PoweredUP and Control+ motors work with the Mindstorms hubs, and vice versa? Further, do people use the 51515/45678 Mindstorms hub instead of the PoweredUP/Control+ hubs for the size and additional outputs? I realize the Mindstorms hubs are more expensive but they're still comparable to a Buwizz with additional ports and programmability.

Here's a thought, what if we create a Q&A collection topic to pin in place of the "Generic Building Help Topic", to have a "Technic Help Topic, Mindstorms Help Topic, Modeling Help Topic and Generic Building Help Topic all in one place. It'd take up the same amount of room in the Pinned section, but have specific sections for each Not-Subforum. I myself have some questions about the Mindstorms Hub and the Powered-Up Hub.

I converted the Jeep to traditional IR in order to make a small video. Sorry for the low quality, I have no better camera.

I know others have already done this, but I rebuilt the Jeep with all wheel drive(no differentials) and better suspension. I use a Buwizz for power, though there is plenty of room for IR or a Sbrick or two. I rebuilt the roof rack and bumper, and added a snorkel. It runs well, though it is too heavy to drive on the snow that surrounds my area right now. Sadly I don't have the means to make a video, my phone can barely run the Buwizz app, let alone that and take video.

Two L motors in the middle/back of the chassis, a buwizz above those(attached to the body), and a servo mounted on the front axle. I think dual L motors with a buwizz are the best power to weight without using buggy motors. All the snow around here is melting, so I don't have anywhere outside to test it for a little while, though I will try to take a video indoors.

The axle was originally meant to be steered. The axle can be made solid with cross-axles passing through the center, but I used the cv joint because I could. I figured out how to properly brace the axle and still leave enough room to steer it. This is closest to the original version I built around two years ago.

Upon further testing, the axle is not as sturdy as I had previously thought. I last built it around two years ago, and forgot that all the weight is held by those four 3l pins, meaning the axle is more 'flexible.' I think adding a 11l beam across the bottom between the two sets of L-beams should stiffen it up some. Apparently the track width is the same as 42070...

I know, but the 3l pin position negates the entire problem. Thanks, though.

If you place the four 3l pins in pointing away from(so the stop is closer to) the drive gear on one side, and then push in the axle to the motor, the assembly becomes like the problems here: The axle 4l through the 20-tooth gear keeps the 3l pins from being removed, thus permanently fixing the structure. I know be cause I did it, and needed a knife to remove the axle. These two pictures show where the problem is. The two 3l pins(sticking out is the top picture) are facing the wrong way.

Here's an improved version BEFORE ANYONE BUILDS THIS: If assembled incorrectly, the parts will be very hard to disassemble, the blue 3l pins must be facing a certain way to disassemble the structure. I threw on a panhard-type suspension setup, the shocks keep the axle from twisting.

The tan gears are braced by the 5l beams, the second picture is a "cut away"

The motor yields before any damage to any parts.

Here's a simple, but very sturdy solid axle. It can be powered by one or two L motors, but steering is a challenge(though possible). I have tested it, and it's almost indestructible.

@Mechbuilds You may want to specify that nobody has tried these ideas before, so no more "duplicates" show up. My thoughts... People have already done the normal 4x4, but not the 10x10. I've tried, but cannot find a good articulation joint with my parts available.

This is my own version of a very short-lived locomotive on a eastern US railroad. The New York New Haven and Hartford used ten GE EP-5s on various routes from 1954 to 1974. All were later scrapped. I call this one EP-6 because there are enough differences(pantograph, pointed nose, etc.) to warrant a new designation. The nose is full of SNOT, but was not significantly difficult to build. https://www.flickr.com/photos/186704489@N06/49892254217/in/dateposted-public/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/186704489@N06/49892256172/in/dateposted-public/ I would love feedback on what can be improved.

Oops. Clearly my research was not thorough enough.

I have always liked the design/layout of the rebel Y-wing, but never got over how decrepit they looked, so I fixed it. This is my though for a future YV class Y-wing, which are faster, just as maneuverable, but not quite as heavily armed.

Those Y-wings are neat, but I prefer the 'cage' style engines.

Years ago I bought two 9398s that had been vandalized at a thrift store. They were missing some panels, the portal axle hubs, and all the electronics. The wheels were still there, though. I ordered the electronics and other missing parts from Lego. Total cost, ~$70-75 USD.

Sorry, I am still somewhat new here. I have my own MOC over 95% done, and it is 1% copied from an official set. I stole the zoomie headers from Emmett's escape buggy.

I am guessing that it would be fine, but I am still going to finish my tracked snow dune flying buggy. Still need to come up with a name for it.

Just out of curiosity, @Jim, you said that modding a set was frowned upon. What if someone took several different sets and combined them. That is how the vehicles of mad max were actually built, right? Say, someone took the body of 42050 and placed it on the chassis of 9398, with the tow boom of 8285 sticking out the back. That would not necessarily be a moc, but would not be a mod either.