Wurger49

Eurobricks Vassals
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Everything posted by Wurger49

  1. UPDATED VERSION on the 24/04/2021 IMG_5503 by R Y, on Flickr IMG_5505 by R Y, on Flickr I started off with building up the Cobb Vanth speeder using pieces of the 75299 set, based on the guide from reddit user stocky13, very smart use of inverted pieces to create the core of the speeder. The new Round 3 x 3 x 2 with Recessed Center and Axle Hole makes a great engine intake with the Bar with light cover. File_002 by R Y, on Flickr File_003 by R Y, on Flickr File_000 by R Y, on Flickr File_001 by R Y, on Flickr File_004 by R Y, on Flickr File_005 by R Y, on Flickr File_006 by R Y, on Flickr File_007 by R Y, on Flickr
  2. Some more updates, the air scoops were too long, the tip are now formed by Wedge 2 x 1 with Stud Notches, followed by 2 x 3 tiles. The light bluish plates 1 x 8 are now offset by 3 stubs beneath the tiles. I extended the Reddishe Brown Plate to the round plate on the driver side, I had to change how the seat is connected by moving the 1 x 2 plate. I added a second Round Plate 4 x 4 with 2 x 2 hole to enhance the round shape of the thrust blades. On the top of the engine I used two curved 1 x 1 double slopes and Curved 2 x 2 x 2/3 Slope. IMG_5503 by R Y, on Flickr IMG_5504 by R Y, on Flickr IMG_5506 by R Y, on Flickr IMG_5505 by R Y, on Flickr IMG_5507 by R Y, on Flickr IMG_5510 by R Y, on Flickr Thank you, how did you go with your version?
  3. No worries, if you have any other questions on the parts used, let me know
  4. I built my speeder exactly as stocky13's instructions on reddit, then I changed things bit by bit over the next 2 weeks. The design of the engine core with the 4 reddish brown triangular plates, and how the 2 air sccops are attached remained mostly the same. I removed a plate from his design so the spinner of the enigne lines up with the thrust cone at the back, when that was done, I was able to move the 3x3 wedges closer. The seat was simplied to an arm up plate and a 2x2 hinge plate, with a 1x2 plate for support, sitting on the inverted 1x2 bracket. The air scoop i wanted to keep to 2 plates thick, a 1x8 plate connects via 2 studs onto the hinge plate wihat finger, the second 1x8 is offset by 2 studs for the hinge arms. I used a 2x2 stud plate instead of all 1x2 stud plates to reduce the amount of gaps on the scoop and the grille pieces are not loose. I tried a lot of combinations to hide the hinge connections and not look bulky, I ended up using 2540 plate with bar handle open ends. Engine nacelle is connected by a 32073 axle 5 onto the inverted bracket, it uses one 2x2 round pate, one 2x2 round tile, two 98585, one 73111, one connector axle 2L, one bar with light cover. The thrust cone is a 2x2x2 cone with a vertical swirl round plate. The nozzle is stocky13's design. The rest are mainly superficial changes on how to decorate the 4 sides of the engine. I even used 2 projectile launcher 15301c01 for the base. Stocky13's design of inverted for half of the engine core allowed me to add 2 centreline pieces on the cowling.
  5. cheers, thank you thank you, ah, I have seen quite of few mocs on aliexpress, where the designers don't get credit
  6. This topic has a lot of photos inside, to make it easier for everyone to see the latest version of my MOD, I have editted this first post to show version 5, 14th Nov 2020. Your feedback is welcome or share your MOD ideas Please! Port View by R Y, on Flickr Bow by R Y, on Flickr Stern Starboard by R Y, on Flickr My Lego collection consisted mainly of SW sets and its MOCs, I was tempted to get the 21322 Barracuda Bay when it came out in April but decided to save up for the UCS A-Wing, which I still haven’t got around to build yet, I have been modify the 75175 A-wing. A-Wing Mod by R Y, on Flickr I wasn’t too keen on the 31109 Creator Pirate Ship when I first saw its photos, especially the brick-built sails. During the Queen’s Birthday long weekend, I was reading posts on OZLUG of buying multiple sets to make it a bigger ship; that grabbed my attention as I mod all Lego sets where possible after I figured out Bricklink. However, at RRP of $160 AUD each, I might as well just buy the 21322 for $300 AUD; then again thanks to OZLUG, I realised that they are $119 at Kmart, meaning $238 worth of investment, no brainer! I quickly read up on reviews from Brickset and Brother’s Brick, how the completely brick-built design is its selling point, instead of using specialized boat hull pieces. My local Kmart had no stock, so I went to the next nearest one, nothing on the shelves again and a store girl told me all they have is already on the shelfs even though the online stock check shows limited availability. Disappointed, I was about the leave the store empty handed before I talked past the customer service counter, there was only one person in line so I decided to wait and check. The service girl was very helpful and checked the stock room for me, it turned out they do have three at the back, which I gladly picked up two; she told me apparently people try to steal Lego all the time, so they keep the good stuff at the back. I had to wait for my baby to settle and sleep before started building that night. As the original model is built in 3 sections: bow with forecastle, waist, stern with captain’s cabin; I decided to build 2 x waists sections and have 3 masts. I always build repetition sections step by step simultaneously instead of finishing one section and start another, personally I find this method quicker. My aim is to stick to the original Lego design and finish the hull asap, redesign the masts into foremast, mainmast and mizzen mast, and use the remaining pieces to touch up and make the 2 waists transition smoothly. 31109 Long Side View by R Y, on Flickr I wanted to rig the ship from the bowsprit to the stern flagpole, I had to move the “Plate Round 2 x 2 with Pin Hole and 4 Arms Up” to the mainmast beneath the lookout so the arms are equal distance to the diagonal spars from the foremast and mizzen mast. I spent more time on the foremast and rigging than any other sections. I tried a few different arrangements before settled down on the current layout, where the rigging goes down to the bowsprit from the upside-down diagonal spar. I used light bluish grey Technic Bush instead of the yellow ones provided. The hose piece is still slightly short and the bowsprit is pulled upwards, but the jib sail hides most of it. Overall, I was happy that I achieved my goal. Masts and Rigging by R Y, on Flickr I added a 1 x 2 red brown plate to each of the gun port openings so they are not too close to the waterline, I initially wanted to add 2 pieces per opening, but they were too high and affected the guns inside. You can tell where each of the section ends with the breaks from the 3027 6 x 16 plate in dark tan secured with 2 x 2 blue round tiles. I made sure the 1 x 4 special plates overlap the gap to secure the sections. The alternating red and light orange strip along the deck worked out perfectly, I was initially worried that I may get a double up of same coloured plates with my MOD. Joins of the Sections by R Y, on Flickr As Lego only gives half the number of guns compare to the gun ports, having 2 sets gives me 4 guns to fill up the front gun deck, squeezed 2 minifigs inside with torches. Gun Deck with Baboon by R Y, on Flickr I plated over the opening next to the gangways on the 2nd waist, to make it look like a quarterdeck, but not really raised due to the limitation of my skills in the mod. I really like the brick-built rowing boat from the alternative Skull Island bult, I made it longer using 2 x 2 slopes at the stern and made other changes as certain parts were already used in the main ship built. I also built a boat rack with 4 cheese slopes and some plates. The rowing boat fills up on the empty quarterdeck perfectly, I really like how it turned out. Rowing Boat by R Y, on Flickr With the 2 sets of 3 human minifigs, I swapped around their outfits, brought in a pair of black legs to swap out the peg leg. Now I have 6 different minifigs, I left out the epaulette for the officer to differentiate him from the captain. a9 by R Y, on Flickr a8 by R Y, on Flickr I built the red/green parrot and blue seagull according to the instructions, again had to use some different pieces due to availability. Lastly, I added the pet baboon hanging off the shroud, it’s a really fun build where its arms and waist are twistable to get a good pose. Baboon by R Y, on Flickr I really liked how this MOD turned out, this is probably the cheapest and easiest way to get a Lego 8-gun full-rigged-ship (three or more masts), even the 21322 only has only two masts. It’s around 58cm long from the tip of the bowsprit to the edge of stern flag, around 36cm tall from the tip of mainmast to the bottom of the hull, 19cm wide at the horizontal spars. With the elongated waist, it makes the forecastle and poop deck seem small in comparison, a bit out of proportion to be honest; but at this stage, I don’t have the skills to design and make them bigger. Side Front View by R Y, on Flickr Top Front View by R Y, on Flickr Back View by R Y, on Flickr
  7. thank you, I like how you did the beach drydock!
  8. Wurger49

    [Review] 75302 Imperial Shuttle

    Thank you for the review, I will pick up this set as I don’t have the 2015 play set, and don’t want to pay the high price for it. With Lego’s price hikes, even their kids sets are getting expensive.
  9. The 75288 is a great set to start off with, I made some small modifications to have 6 snowtroopers sitting down on sand blue chairs, 2 stormtroopers standing, 1 scout trooper sitting on the speeder bike. I moved the E-Web heavy repeater blaster storage to the centreline, removed some sloped pieces to free up space. The standing 2 stormtroopers need to stand on a 2 x 2 Plate so the side panels can close properly. 72588 Mod by R Y, on Flickr 75288 Mod1 by R Y, on Flickr 75288 Mod2 by R Y, on Flickr 75288 Mod3 by R Y, on Flickr 75288 Mod4 by R Y, on Flickr
  10. I have no problems with the gun sitting on the plate with bar arm up in the original Lego design. When I moved the plate to the centreline, I removed the tripod base off the E-Web, so I can fit the 2 standing stormtroopers. Interested to see how you attached them?
  11. Wurger49

    Slave I Retrospective and UCS Comparison

    What a great topic! With Boba back on Mando Season 2, I finally built Slave 1 – 20th Anniversary Edition 75243 that I got on sale last year, to go with the Razor Crest, curiously to know what Mando gets as the replacement to Razor Crest. Very keen to see your comparison 75243 to the others if you have the time to write it up and post it here.
  12. thank you, wow, that is indeed an old piece, I didn't even know it existed, it's great as it slopes on both sides. I will keep it in mind when I do my next bricklink order.
  13. thank you for the feedback, I now see you are referring to the hull is too long, which won't change if I extend the masts.
  14. Wurger49

    [MOC] 21322 + 31109 = ?

    This is very nice, I like how you included a courtyard.
  15. Back in September, as I was posting my version 3 and 4 of the Pirate Ship Mod on social media, Graham Hancock reached out to me from the awesome monthly LEGO magazine, Blocks (www.blocksmag.com). Graham asked if they can feature this build in the magazine, to be honest I was stocked! Initially I thought it was going to be a picture of my MOD with a reference, a few weeks after doing an email Q&A, Graham told me my answers and pics will be featured on Issue 73. I was flattered for the recognition and really pleased with how well Graham put together this 2-page feature. Big thanks to Graham for reaching out to me! MOD article from Blocks Magazine by R Y, on Flickr In the meantime, I have seen other great MODs for the 31109 from fellow members of LEGO Pirates groups, I decided to progress my build to version 5, a larger topsail with a main topgallant sail on a taller main mast. @SteamSewnEmpire @Verodin @Corydoras The topsail was heightened by 2 studs and widened by 4 studs, so there are 5 pieces of white curved panels at the bottom of the sail. Ideally, I needed 2 pieces of white plate 2 x 16, but only 1 was available, so I substituted that with 3 shorter plates. The side edges of the sail were completed by using white wedge plates 4 x 2. The skull and crossbones moved down the sail by 1 stud. The main topsail yard was moved upwards to accommodate the larger sail. I used the same technique to connect the topgallant yard as LEGO did for the topsail yards. 3 white curved panels were used for the topgallant sail. I simplified how the spanker yard is attached to the mizzen mast, by using only a pin connector plate and a hinge plate. The main mast started to sag with the extra weight of the plates, I had to rest the topsail on the mainsail yard to balance out the mast. I now appreciate why LEGO didn’t include bigger sails in the original build, they are just too heavy for standard technic pieces. Port View by R Y, on Flickr Bow by R Y, on Flickr Stern Port by R Y, on Flickr Sails by R Y, on Flickr Stern Starboard by R Y, on Flickr
  16. It’s a very small ship next to the barracuda bay.
  17. Wurger49

    [MOC] The treasure is at the bottom

    It’s a beautiful design, love how the waterline forms a platform above the seabed filled with fun ideas.
  18. Thank you the for suggestion, using the special mast pieces will solve the mast height problem, I didn't enjoy connecting all those round bricks when I was making the Barracuda Bay, so yeah, special mast piece wins! One thing to keep in mind is that brick sails are very heavy compared to cloth sails, I have seen some MODs' masting drooping forwards when they add to the brick sails without using the ziplines. In my MOD, I try to add to original designs, like cannons, plates, and grille pieces, while keeping the replacement pieces to a minimum, like using the brick sails and ziplines. The horizontal ziplines going from bow to stern are vital for stability of my mast designs.
  19. Thank you, I do like the changes, I have also made a 3 major revisions to my June MOD. The traingular sail that is above the sprit topmast is called a jib. The triangular sail on the mizzen-mast is called a staysail, which real ships don't use on the aftmost mast, they carry a gaff rig sail called spanker.
  20. Wow, just applause! The Golden Devil!
  21. Wurger49

    [MOC] ca. 1660 26-gun frigate 'Victoire Ailée'

    stern shoots from The Sailing Frigate: A History in Ship Models Book by Robert Gardiner 4th rate 1685 by R Y, on Flickr 6th rate 1702 by R Y, on Flickr
  22. Wurger49

    [MOC] 1670 6-gun barque longue 'La Reine'

    I would say remove the chequer design and have a centre decoration like this model. https://www.modelships.de/La_Belle_Ferlemann/Photos_La_belle.htm
  23. Wurger49

    [MOC] ca. 1650s 54-gun pirate 4th-rate 'Rode Dageraad'

    Not at all, discussions spark ideas and changes
  24. Wurger49

    [MOC] 8-gun early pirate fluyt 'Anne Boleyn's Ghost'

    I like how you exaggerated pear shaped hull. interesting fact from wiki "The pear-shaped vessel had a large cargo bay near the waterline and a relatively narrow deck above. In part, this design served to avoid high taxes collected by Denmark in the Øresund, assessed based on the area of the main deck. "