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Everything posted by johnnym

  1. Well, red would also be too similar to the clutch gear, that could have unforeseen consequences....
  2. Thanks a lot, that comment made my day! You're welcome.
  3. Agree with that, it looks pretty clear in the video over at at around 2 seconds into it.
  4. @Void_S: Ok. thanks for the clarification. As already said, very interesting stuff. You might wanna have a look at the police interceptor above. It has a more realistic setup and a diff. I'll get some pictures up sometime in the future.
  5. I fully understand, I'm also not in big models, but probably because I'm missing the patience, though I can invest weeks in modfying existing models of mine. But the first protoype must happen in hours. Not sure how this fits together. That's cool, I wasn't fully sure, because - well - they're really wide. I painted mine black, btw there are also yellow ones available - well, at least they don't yellow! Actually I wanted to propose a smaller tractor, but then thought, well, the Atmos is not really a huge tractor - at least not from the looks IME. But a really small tractor like the old after-war German ones (Fendt, Deutz, Porsche, etc.) with a little less functionality (PTO should be a must) and maybe even w/o closed cabin but rollbar would be cool. The new 49.5 x 14 truck tyres could make nice front tyres, but for the rear I'm unsure. Can't really suggest any of the attachments as I don't have a clue about such equipment.
  6. Great addition to the Atmos and lots of functionality and mechanisms - not that I understand too much of it - and not to forget: nice details. The size is also - let's say - handy. For the rear wheels, I would have suggested the old 68.6 x 40 tyres and matching rims because they have more rubber on their flanks, but yeah, they are 2mm wider than the front tyres and there's no rim available in light blueish gray, so no perfect match. But there is a rim in white available and I think white would also look good at the front. BTW, what's next on your list for the Thirdwigg Farm?
  7. @Void_S: Thanks for your in-depth explanations, very interesting stuff! About this one here: I suspect this is mostly likely relevant for high-speed driving? Because aren't there a lot of trucks that have their differentials at an offset from the center line of the vehicle? And I assume torque is much higher there than for sports cars. BTW, sorry for not coming back to you earlier, but spare time went into digitizing the attaccabrighe, which now allows me quick recolorings and hence a sneak peak at an early modification that will feature a VR6 engine: Sorry, the StarFighter is not yet digitized, so no dark azure front fenders for now.
  8. Now that's odd. I assumed from the front engine FWD cars I had in real, that putting the engine like that - transversal - in the rear would be the easiest thing for a RWD car. But as you said and what I read afterwards, in reality it's not so common, though there are quite some cool cars that had/have it that way (for example Lambo Miura, Honda NSX, Toyota MR2, Pontiac Fiero, etc.), but literature calls them rear mid-engined then. But why is that? Wouldn't it be easier from a mechanical standpoint to put it in transversely close to the rear axle? Well, maybe that's something for a modification or the aftermarket. I have to say I kinda like the black hood with the red stripes and I believe there's also no pin with pin hole in dark azure, yet, so this spot would still stand out.
  9. The 42098 alternate model - actually only made from the parts of the blue car that came with 42098 - is ready. This one became a very simple - no-bullsh*t - track car. So no windshield, no doors, no roof, no engine cover, just pure driving experience. Presenting the McKall StarFighter - also known as the pocket rocket internally at McKall. The car features HOG steering with a 20 tooth gear directly attached to the steering axle - yeah, it's a little primitive, but it also avoids a visible steering knob ruining the shape of the body. The stock turbocharged I4 engine is of course swappable. The big V8 engines fit snugly, but fit in: Of course I cheated a little and show it using wide wheels at the rear whose black rims are not part of 42098 and also not part of the blue car's inventory, but manufactures usually show their cars with extras on, so what.
  10. Thanks for your kind words, I greatly appreciate that from you @Thirdwigg. Well, there's already a third car with similar functionality - the police interceptor - but having its engine at the front makes its engines incompatible with the AMX 4s or the attaccabrighe. But due to having five crank pins by default, I5 and V10 are possible without changes to the car, although the engine bay is much smaller compared to the rear-engine cars, limiting the details. A bigger scale for such functionality would surely be better. So maybe it's time to make something similar in the scale of my Turbo Racers, but I also want to give the car from 42098 a try, though the available parts for the car alone are even less than available from the Corvette.
  11. Thanks guys! Despite what people say about its rear axle construction, the missing differential in the 42123 McLaren Senna really allowed for some rethinking. I have to give the creator of this set credit for that, and also the people that started the 42093 scale cars. BTW, I also created a video showing the AMX 4 Turbo on a dyno-like machinery and might come up with something similar for the attaccabrighe in the future:
  12. I like it. And I fully agree, the 42075 was a cool set and the main model had good looks. Making a wrecker out of it was a great idea! One thing I noticed when loading this page: The pictures are only scaled down to 1024x768 for display but actually still have a resolution of 4032x3024 for the last one for example. So loading this page takes quite some time if the pictures aren't already in my web browser's cache. See, on BrickSafe for example you can link to lower resolution versions of your pictures which would make this page load much faster. Isn't something like that possible on imgur, too, maybe?
  13. Wow @steph77, this looks so cool! I love all the detailing. The color scheme is also nice, is the main color dark-azure or medium-azure? And where can one hear the sound of the engine?
  14. So three 30┬░ steps (incl. 90┬░ => 30┬░,60┬░,90┬░)? Well, definitely better than 90┬░ steps. And they keep their angle when you hold the controls at specific positions? Unfortunately I haven't yet found a source in Germany and they are not exactly a replacement for the PF Servo motor. Do you have a part number maybe? It's not that they don't work with BuWizz for me, they just go to their 90┬░ extremes there when you exceed a specific position of the controls, so you can do -90┬░, 0┬░ and 90┬░ but not the 7 steps in each direction like on PF IR receivers.
  15. @Zerobricks Bummer. I hoped to use these CaDA Servo motors as "cheap(er)" alternative to used or NOS PF Servo motors. According to the linked document, at least the older round version of it looks very much like a PF Servo motor internally, if I'm not mistaken. Well, doesn't say much about the workings, but as - at least the newer version (JV5029´╗┐) - works like a PF Servo motor on IR receivers (w/ or w/o a little help of a real PF plug), it might not be too hard to get it going with BuWizz.
  16. I think this fits in here: I recently bought a CaDA POWER SYSTEM PRO Servo (JV5029). According to this document (posted here already earlier) this is expected: to be compatible with BuWizz (and others like SBrick, but I only have BuWizz 2.0 and 3.0 units) as motor to be not compatible with LEGO IR receiver I interpret (1) as working with 7 steps in each directtion plus 0┬░ position and (2) as working with 1 step in each direction (i.e. +/-90┬░) plus 0┬░ position. @brunojj1: Does this reflect your experience with the CaDA Servo motor (JV5029)? My interpretation could of course be wrong and the reality also looks different for me: I first tested this servo motor with a BuWizz 2.0 unit using a horizontal control (with spring) in the BuWizz app (version 2.1.4) and it only moves one 90┬░ step in each direction when going over a certain position of the control. Well this was not what I expected. So I went on and tested it with V1 and V2 IR receivers and the IR train control and guess what, it works there with 7 steps in each direction - i.e. like the PF Servo motor - most of the time. With "most of the time" I mean, that it sometimes (i.e. seldomly) overshoots (on the first three steps or so) and resets itself to the 0┬░ position but you can go on from there. On my V2 IR receiver it doesn't work correctly on both ports (i.e. only in one "direction", but all 7 steps there and also back to 0┬░ in 7 steps), but when I connect a PF Servo motor between a port and the CaDA Servo motor it also works correctly on my V2 IR receiver, so maybe this is a contact issue of the connectors. UPDATE: It also works when I put the dark bluish gray connector of a PF extension cable between a port and the CaDA Servo motor. So for the IR receivers the CaDA Servo motor behaves like a PF Servo motor, but for BuWizz 2.0 it does not, which I find strange. @Zerobricks Do you maybe have an idea what could be the differentiating thing between the PF Servo motor and the CaDA Servo motor (JV5029)? Because the behaviour is certainly useful for IR controlled PF driven models like 9398, but not so much when using BuWizz for control of RC race cars like these. Another observation: This CaDA Servo motor only resets itself to the 0┬░ position on "startup" when it was at a different then 0┬░ position when power was removed.
  17. @Mr Jos: Fascinating to watch. Because of the speed the parts move on the last belt, does it always work to move the arm quick enough from one extreme to the other (edge case, I know)? Or maybe you slow down the last belt, but I didn't notice a difference in the video? If only the motors, sensors and and hub wouldn't be so expensive. Though I can't complain if I consider the amount of PF/PU motors, PF battery boxes and IR receivers and BuWizzes I have bought for my race cars. Could really use that now, as I have a few sets in parts laying around waiting to be inventorized and sorted afterwards.
  18. I see, sorry, I didn't look too closely, just noticed the similarity. Thanks for the clarification. I agree, that's a really good reason to keep that vent.
  19. This is the same vent as on the R32, isn't it? It's cool and seems to be very common on S13s, but why don't you go for something different this time? E.g. two smaller vents, one on each side of the hood or something like that (if it can be adapted to the 180SX style front)? I personally would like an opening in the upper part of the bumper of your 180SX, but that wouldn't modify your otherwise clean hood - not that I'd consider it need be. I hope you'll also make a red version with black roof, I like red more than black.
  20. I really like the side shape of your re-interpretaion of the 8880. The rear reminds me a little of the first Toyota MR2.
  21. @HorcikDesigns: Looks gorgeous! Though not as good in the 90┬░ from the side view - not sure why. Maybe the steps in the tank and seat, these seem to "blur away" when moving to the other angles. But I still absolutely love it. The yellow stripes on the tank are great, too. Shaft drive looks also nicely integrated. Awesome work.
  22. Oh, there is: I did this in early 2020. It's not exactly the same, but very close. My goal was also to do it w/o the new frames. And there's also this one: ....which seems to be closer to the original 42109 for some details (e.g. hood), but is also a premium MOC/mod. Both are listed in the "Alt. Builds" tab for 42109 on Rebrickable under "Modifications (MOCs)". And BTW @Ngoc Nguyen great idea to have a directory of PF conversions for C+ sets.
  23. Hi there as nobody else yet presented a PF mod of the 42109 car (@ozacek?), I gave it a try yesterday afternoon/evening and did a quick & dirty PF mod. The result is a replica that's not totally identical in all details but comes very close to the original from the outside with considerable changes on the chassis. Differences: * Very obvious, the colors, but that was not important for the intended task. Initially I wanted to build it in red and black, but soon switched to orange and black and later just ignored the colors to save time when searching the needed parts - I have two many models built ATM and hence am low on some essential parts in the initially desired colors. The upcoming digital model(s) will use (a) more pleasing color combination(s). * The beam connecting both sides of the cockpit was moved 1 stud forward and was constructed differently to hold the PF AA battery box in place * As I couldn't find a position for the PF Servo motor that is low enough that the hood can be closed as much as in the original 42109, I used a 1 x 9 bent liftarm to fix the hood at an elevated position, imitating the look of a huge hood scoop. This way the hood is kept shut very tightly btw. * I used curved 11 x 3 panels with 2 pin holes for the side skirts, as I find them visually more pleasing then what was used in the original 42109. * The chassis is somewhat different: Instead of 11 x 7 frames I used 7 x 5 frames as I don't have 11 x 7 frames yet; 8L axles with stop for each rear wheel - so the axles can't be pulled out, but the wheels can still get loose, though I haven't seen this yet during driving and some other minor differences. The car doesn't use a differential but drives each rear wheel with a single PF L motor. Power Functions parts used: * 2 x PF L motor * 1 x PF Servo motor * 1 x PF IR V2 receiver - optional (not needed with BuWizz) * 1 x PF IR remote control - optional (not needed with BuWizz) * 1 x PF AA battery box - optional (not needed with BuWizz) [* 1 x PF control switch - actually not really needed, if the drive lines are set up in a way that both PF L motors can run in the same direction (not needed with BuWizz)] I.e. the PF equipment that came with the 9398 - not that I have one. Enough talking/writing, here are three shots, digital model(s) will come later: Using a BuWizz instead of the PF remote control equipment saves a lot of space and weight and will make this car faster. So far I haven't used it with fresh AA batteries but only with used AA batteries and a BuWizz and even in normal mode the car seems to be quicker, not to speak of fast and ludicrous modes, where the wheels start slipping on carpet and laminate floor when going backwards at full speed in fast mode or both ways at full speed in ludicrous mode.
  24. @nicjasno Nice! I really like the Sierras - well, my parents owned a few in the past, though actually a sedan and some station wagons. The huge rear lights look really familiar. BTW, the tumbler tyres also "fit" to the used rims and might give a nice alternative to the used wheels. They come out sightly bigger though.