lmdesigner42

What a great model! Lots of innovative features and functions for the small size. It definitely adds something when you build a model of something you own in real life.

Apologies if this has already been answered before, but is it possible to connect more than one CaDa remote/hub pair in a single model for 8 RC functions? Or is there interference between the radio channels?

That's a pretty neat gearbox concept, similar to real-life planetaries and it seems very robust. Would there be any advantage to using a traditional transmission driving ring to switch between a 1:1 ratio and going through the planetary hub?

I don't use studio much, but I made a quick model of the front suspension and added it to the Bricksafe folder. Here's a direct link. Maybe other software are better, but in my limited experience it is hard to properly connect parts and assemblies in studio at the unusual angles that are often used in MOCs.

Yeah, the windshield is a little awkward, and the smaller scale emphasizes that. The doors can sit flush if they are pushed in all way and pop past another piece, I didn't notice that when I took the pictures. You've got a really good eye for detail! Photographing black is always difficult, and it doesn't help that my main light source is a window on the side. I'll try to lighten the pictures a bit though. Thanks for the photo advice. I combined the two comparison images you mentioned for the entry post. I know it's hard to see details in smaller images, but I felt like a combination strip showing the overall similarity was less overwhelming than 6 full-size images comparing the same two models from different angles.

Name: Mini Extreme Cruiser Features: independent front suspension rear swing axle with shock absorber HOG steering Working drivetrain with differential and fake V4 engine Opening doors, hood, and trunk Detailed front and rear facias Original model: Mini Extreme Cruiser: Video: Discussion topic:

All finished! I successfully shrunk the camshaft to 2 studs and lowered the V4 to make the hood at the proper height. This resulted in a few other internal changes such as 8:16:8 gearing for the steering and a 2L section of ribbed hose in the drive shaft to accommodate the 0.5 stud offset. Some comparison pictures are included below with my TC22 entry and the 8081 Extreme Cruiser. My 8081 is rather heavily modified inside, but the exterior is unchanged. I am happy to have captured important visual details such as the distinctive headlights and taillights, the license plates, red stripes, and blue/grey seats, but some smaller things like the stickered red stripes on the roof are missing. The steering is also routed to the HOG with two yellow knob gears like in the original. I feel like the miniature version rides about 0.5 studs too low, due to a combination of play in the suspension and the slightly too thick fenders, but it’s not worth it to me to figure out a way to redesign the chassis to eliminate that. All the pictures are on Bricksafe. Next up is the entry post.

Another progress update. I extended the wheelbase by 1 stud, 0.5 was not enough, and a gear train now routes the steering axle around the driveshaft. Most of the bodywork is done, except for the fenders and headlights. The hood now fits around the engine, but is 1 stud too tall since clearance is needed for the pistons (last pic). This rather hurts the looks of the front, so I am going to try and replace the camshaft with a smaller one in order to drop the engine and hood 1 stud.

I wanted to use the 16 tooth clutch gear as you suggested at first, since that was what the original 8081 had, but there wasn't enough space lengthwise to move the u-joint (+ cv joint) back. Since I'm going to try and move the engine forwards anyway, the clutch gear is definitely something to revisit. I liked the lever because it was simple, compact, and the steering shaft barely rotates anyway, but it does rub the driveshaft a little and takes away space for mounting the seats, as you mentioned. Now that I think of it, the u-joint could be replaced with 8 tooth gears which would make space for the clutch gear. Thanks for the suggestion!

I’ve assembled more of the chassis/body, and have run into a small problem, the hood panels are interfering with the engine block and as a result the hood is too high. Hopefully this is visible in the below picture (the perspective isn't very good). There isn’t an easy solution, since both the V4 and 3x7 hood panels are important for the functions and aesthetics of 8081. There is only 1 stud for structural support between the engine and the front suspension at the moment, but I am thinking that if I thin that support to 0.5 studs, and stretch the wheelbase 0.5 studs (which is actually exactly to scale) I can move the engine forward 1 stud and it will no longer interfere with the hood. Any other suggestions are welcome. Another challenge was crossing over the steering and drive shafts in the center of the chassis. Eventually I came up with a small linkage to route the steering around the driveshaft. There is only 3 studs of width available in the center of the chassis, since 2 studs are needed on either side for the seats.

Thanks for the kind words, @Thirdwigg. I hope it turns out too. The fake engine is going to go behind the front axle, I'm actually going to integrate it so that the light gray L-beams in the first picture become the front engine block support. I am concerned about the size of the engine too. The steering shaft, crankshaft, and pistons stack to a height of ~5.5 studs, and the hood is 6 studs tall in scale, so it will be tight.

Yes, I saw your new topic. I’ll try to come up with a better name. The front axle is nice and small, but it was really hard to get the steering links to fit, had to use a bar with towball. I made some more progress, with a start on the chassis and some of the key bodywork elements. I narrowed the axles by 1 stud by removing the half bushes to bring it closer to the right scale. As a side benefit, the rear half-shafts are now secured with a half bush. I also made a mini V4, using crankshaft parts for yellow pistons. The next challenge is fitting all the various functions together with strong enough connections.

According to Sariel the hole is 3.5 studs deep (Zetros review), which should fit your setup.

Those axles are looking pretty capable, would a sliding CV joint help (77590)?

For this contest, I decided to shrink one of my favourite technic sets, 8081 Extreme Cruiser. Using 43 mm balloon tires, with a similar profile to the originals, the scale is about 60%. I plan to replicate all of the features from the original, including the suspension and the fake V4, which will be a first for me at this scale. The overall goal is to imitate the colour choices and “cuteness” of the original, using some of the new small panels. So far, the rear axle is done, and I have designed a steered and independently suspended 7-stud wide front axle. The next step is figuring out how to add springs…