Henry 991

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  1. Henry 991

    MOC: Big Boy X4023

    Please notice that the motors don’t necessarily have to be placed where the power output from the engine is. It is possible to have the motors placed in more convenient locations of your choice and output the power elsewhere. See picture below. However, this limits the number of motors you can pack into the boiler and works better with L motors which are 4 studs wide (XL is 5).
  2. Henry 991

    MOC: Big Boy X4023

    Hi, it’s probably a best practice to run the Technic axle through a 4x4 turntable. It makes the setup very solid.
  3. Henry 991

    MOC: Big Boy X4023

    The gains from moving motors from the tender to the engine can be significant. Not only would you have more weight on the driving wheels, creating higher maximum friction, but the direct drive from motors makes it easier to overcome the parasitic friction of the driving wheels&pushrods vs. tender-pushing configurations. Also, it allows you to add ball bearings into the tender, and increase the available pulling power of the entire engine set. Don’t forget to install friction rings into the drivers. What comes to the motors, XL motor is about double the power of the L motor, assuming suitable gearing. XL motor has the highest power density and is shorter than L, making packaging easier. So, try fit 3-4 XL motors in the first place. If that doesn’t work, settle with 2 XLs or 4 L motors. All of these configurations fit into 8-wide Big Boy. If you got with 3-4 motors, the motors probably need to be stressed members of the chassis. What comes to the control box, FX Brick or such allows you to have smoother power curve than LEGO. I.e. their speed increment is very small, allowing you to apply power gently. That is more friendly for the gears, and makes gear skipping less prone. Even better, FX Brick allows you to run motors with 11-12 Volts, e.g. with a three-cell LiPo battery. Although the torque of the motors remains the same, you can run the motors on higher top RPM. The benefit of that is the possibility to have lower gearing and keep the same top speed. With 3-cell LiPo, you can drive XL motors with direct drive and don’t have to gear up, e.g. with 20:14 as some in this forum do. Where this all takes us, I believe that the strongest possible single LEGO engine one can make in 1:48 scale is probably a Big Boy with: 4 XL motors 1:1 gearing and friction rings Ballasting 3-cell lipo with a FX Brick controller
  4. Henry 991

    Big Boy and layout in LEGO show

    Thanks a lot for the encouraging feedback! After sleeping on this for a couple of nights, here is the plan. Our first development priority will be to complete the 3 existing modules with surface texture. I’d like to finish them just to get experience from making a 3D hill with plates and bricks. Then, we might continue by making 2-3 additional modules to balance the scenery with another hill and to get a longer track. It would then be 10-12 of 32-stud baseplates long. What I’m not very fond of in the current layout, is that the track spacing is only 12 studs, not 16. 16 studs would have not been practical as the parallel tracks would have eaten too much of the hill part. 64 studs of building depth is not all that much. I’m already thinking of a longer term semi-permanent layout in larger dimension. I’d like to make it bi-level. What is your experience, with friction tires (I have on each engines’ traction wheels), can the locomotives pull gradients of 3%, or should I settle with 2.5%? I’ll have approximately 5 meters of free straight on the wall. With 3%, the track could climb over itself in 5 meters. Best, Henry
  5. Henry 991

    MOC - Union Pacific # 3985 Challenger

    This is very cool. UP Challenger has been on my short list for a long time, and I’d really like to build one like yours. I like the lights as well. Very prototypical to the video you had included!
  6. We participated a LEGO show in Helsinki today. Please find below a couple of pictures from our layout. We didn’t quite have the time to finish the surface layer of the scenery, but although incomplete, we were proud to put the setup up for the show. It contains a mountain scenery inspired by Southern California railroads. The Big Boy and other train equipment is built from BMR and BrickTrainDepot plans. With my son, we started doing LEGO trains 12 months ago so this was our first show ever! We are now thinking about the ambition for next year. Should we have 2-3 additional modules? Our make a circle so that we could run the trains? Any ideas?
  7. Henry 991

    MILS modules with track.

    Good tip. Didn’t come to my mind when I assembled the layout section the other night.
  8. Henry 991

    MILS modules with track.

    Interestingly, I also started the same project of creating 2x6 layout. The track is separate, on tiles, in all but one module that is the tunnel section. I also deviated from the MILS standard by placing the tracks with 12 stud spacing. The 16 would have made the layout scenery part too narrow.
  9. Henry 991

    Best place to buy MOC trains?

    Super. Then it’s fit to my 1:48 collection.
  10. Henry 991

    Best place to buy MOC trains?

    Agree, it’s a beauty. Can anyone approximate the scale? E.g. provide the wheelbase in studs? My guess has been that it’s about 1:55.
  11. Henry 991

    Ideas for new powered up app alternative?

    Nothing specific but I’d look at the H0 scale digital controllers for inspiration. A recent (June?) Model Railroader had a review of all major systems. That could be valuable read for you!
  12. Henry 991

    New Powered Up motors: implications to trains

    I’m also considering stacking up the PF motors. With the third party controllers (FX Brick, S-Brick), 2-3S lipo batteries and the PF motors, I don’t think I need PU. Actually the opposite, it might be that the old PF platform is more capable in the train use case. I have a stock of around 8 XL motors and 6 L motors. I plan to bring it to around 15+10 over the next months. That should be enough to continue building scale trains.
  13. Hi, I just came across some drafts what the new PU L and XL motors might be like. https://racingbrick.com/2019/05/powered-up-update-technic-hub-l-xl-motors-revealed/ The new motors seem much bulkier than the current PF motors. Both L and XL have grown is size. However, I don’t expect their performance to have improved as it wasn’t the case in the previously launched PU motors. What this implies is that the new motors’ power generation density is way down. That is not good news for our train MOCs. Fitting required power into the train designs will be harder with PU motors. E.g. new XL motor is 8 studs long vs. PF XL 6. It means that you cannot do portal mounting in tender. Also, the motor is boxier than the PF. That suggests that having the new XL mounted in the boiler will be hard. I.e. I cannot see if you can fit it even on a 1:48 Big Boy boiler as it square profile doesn’t leave space for support beams and cables. Overall, I will probably opt for continued use of PF motors due to these packaging issues in the PU power units. Also, I hope that BrickTrax, PFBrick or some other 3rd party would create a compact and powerful motor. Like L-sized or M-sized but XL-torque. If you look at the RC e-glider motors, they have “horsepower” class motors that are not more bulkier than our small LEGO motors. Of course the metal gears etc. are expensive, ++100 USD.
  14. Henry 991

    Lego Technic to 2 mm steel shaft adapters

    I’m trying a resin printed version first. Attached please find a picture of the prototype. The small hole is where a tightening screw will the threaded. The core idea of this is to be able to use 2 mm steel axles and ball bearings throughout the engine drivetrain, on all axles.
  15. Henry 991

    [MOC] Southern Pacific 4-10-2

    Some progress with my build. The engine is now in running condition although not complete. I will still need to work with the tender packaging. I couldn’t properly close the hatch with all the cabling and battery battery (3S, 800 mAh) A marginally smaller battery - that I already ordered - will allow reinstalling the second motor that is now removed but required for smooth running.