Tarix819

Eurobricks Vassals
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Everything posted by Tarix819

  1. I added the link to the Imgur album, so hopefully that's public? Unfortunately the heavy weight of the vehicle means it only turns on smooth surfaces, which is why in the video I only demonstrate turning on smooth ground. If I try to turn the vehicle at any significant degree on rough ground the rear drive wheels lose grip. It's an issue I haven't solved yet, but hopefully will in future models.
  2. I hopefully fixed the photos issue, i've linked an Imgur gallery for those who can't see them. Yeah unfortunately the way the turret ring is arranged meant an L-Motor sticks out a bit underneath, reducing ground clearance significantly. With a bit of intuition this could be fixed but I was rather lazy here admittedly, I never went back to fix it. Ground clearance is something I will take into account more so next time. I don't think it makes much difference honestly, as they are the tracks are extremely sturdy, on previous vehicles I did interleave them, and for this one I was only testing having one link to connect them, though in future I will probably interleave them again as it gives a more tank-track-like effect. Thanks very much! :)
  3. The tracks are made using individual Technic track links - in total seven pieces each. These tracks are a huge benefit to Tank-building as I can increase or decrease the width of the tracks from 3 to 12 studs as I please intead of being limited to the 4.5 stud width official Lego Technic Tracks. Another benefit they offer is that I have more choice in the size of sprocket wheel I use. Regular technic tracks are limited to size 3, 5 and 7 technic sprockets, however since these tracks use friction from Lego rubber tyres, my sprocket size is limited only by the sizes of Lego rubber tyres. That said, the tracks are very time-consuming to build and are quite heavy, boosting the overall weight of the vehicle even more. I did think about using an RC Battery pack, however I decided to be more 'purist' (Although i'm still using SBrick with this) and go for an unmodified Lego Battery Box. The only reason the vehicle has so much power is the type of Batteries used in the Battery Box.
  4. I wish BuWizz would introduce a version without the Bluetooth functionality for a cheaper price so it could be used with SBrick as just a better version of the 8878; the SBrick providing its better range and Profile Designer system, and the BuWizz providing the increased voltage.
  5. Hi, I have a model which is currently driven by 4 PF XL motors working together. I only have one Sbrick to drive the vehicle but it needs to have 4 XL motors to drive it, no less. Unfortunately the safety fuse likes to activate a lot when driving which stops the vehicle completely because it doesn't like the 4 XL motors working simultaneously. My question is: Is there any way around this without purchasing another Sbrick? I have looked online at solutions and apparently linking two battery boxes to the one Sbrick using the 2x8 electric plate would work, and it's certainly a much cheaper option but I have never tried it. I am also aware that the Sbrick has a voltage limit of 11.8v so i'm a bit concerned that using that method might fry my Sbrick, but have no idea if this would happen or not. If I could get some advice, that would be really helpful, Thanks,
  6. Extremely unlikely to be a subtractor. The model is way too big and Lego diffs don't cope well with high torque. It doesn't matter though, as the the control will likely be similar to sbrick, where each track can be controlled by a slider, providing the same function a subtractor would. Subtractors in tracked vehicles are pretty obsolete nowadays unless you're stuck with the basic IR receiver and regular controller.
  7. I am so excited for these new sprocket wheels. Previously the maximum size you could get is the 5 stud diameter sprockets which are too small for vehicles like some tank variants. For tanks with large sprockets you had to make compromises. With these new sprockets (which will hopefully come in black or grey at some point) it'll be easier to build tanks with larger sprockets such as the British A1E1 Independent or Soviet T-28 at larger scales.
  8. -Some car chassis so builders can modify them easily and build their own bodies for them - Technic parts and motor packs - the 8293 is pretty lackluster, there should be Servo motor/XL motor/L motor packs with differential gears, driving rings and other specialised parts to boost our technic capacities (Maybe with new 10v/12v battery boxes aswell?)
  9. IMHO Colour Vomit is one of the major downsides with Technic Lego - it makes Technic models look awful and unrealistic. I understand that Lego wants to make sets easier to build but if you can't distinguish between a pin and an axle without the help of colour difference then you shouldn't be buying Technic at all. Besides, I thought Technic was supposed to give people a challenge? I remember when I was younger refusing to let my parents help me build Technic sets because I stood by the doctrine of DIY - 'Do It Yourself'.
  10. Thanks for the advice, I will do a bit of thinking and then decide. SBrick looks more promising at the moment.
  11. Servo Motors are quite expensive (Cheapest I could find is £23 on BL), you might be better off using an M-Motor and a clutch gear instead for steering.
  12. Hi, new here! I am a big fan of building Lego Technic RC cars but have a few (probably stupid) questions: When hardcoupling two motors, is a separate battery box required for each motor to improve the mechanical power? If I only use one battery box to drive both motors does is the power split between them? What are some ways of reducing stress on a drivetrain to prevent gears from slipping and grinding? Thanks, Nick
  13. It is not actually the gearbox that breaks. The 1:1 ratio is on the drivetrain before the gearbox. It is the only gearing between the motor and the gearbox. But thanks I will try what you said anyway.
  14. I have loads of motors so availability isn't a problem. When I use an XL motor, a 1:1 gear ratio of two old-style 16-tooth gears breaks, which I have strengthened as best as I can. Thank you I will try that
  15. Do you think adding a second L-Motor, gearing the drivetrain down and then gearing it up again just before the differential would work?
  16. Problem is I want it to go fast but gearing it down whilst will improve the torque will reduce the speed.
  17. Just tried it and no, it still remains stationary even if powered directly from the battery box. (Which is a LiPo btw).
  18. I've tried both gearing up on the move and moving from stationary in 3rd gear and it has the same effect. The wheels are very large, they are the classic foam tyre wheels found on the 8865 Test Car, 8860 Auto Chassis and 853 Auto Chassis.
  19. It comes from Sariel's book: 'The Unofficial Lego Technic Builder's Guide' I think.
  20. My vehicle has 3 gears: 1st gear: 1:3 2nd gear: 1:1 3rd gear: 3:1 At the end of the drivetrain a 20-tooth gear connects to a 28-tooth differential with the ratio 1:1.4. In first gear the vehicle drives fine, the second gear the vehicle drives fine, however in third gear the vehicle will not move unless travelling down a slope. When I add more motors or use an XL motor (Instead of the single L motor I am currently using) the drivetrain simply breaks. The vehicle weighs about 1.4kg. Also keep in mind for changing gear I am not using driving rings, I am using a linear gear system similar to that of the 8860 Auto Chassis model.
  21. I think I should be okay since I only want to power 2 L-Motors which, assuming the V1 Receiver allows 800mA, should be fine as L-Motors are about 300-400mA each.
  22. Unfortunately I don't own any V2 IR Receivers. I understand that they allow two motors to run at full power whilst connected to the same port? If I use 2 regular V1 IR Receivers and connect one motor to each will it achieve the same effect as 1 V2 IR Receiver?
  23. Thanks very much for the quick responses, that clears it up nicely. I think the biggest problem I'm having is the complex drivetrain, which is using the old linear gear changing system (no driving rings) and is constructed mostly of the old 1970 - 1990 lego technic, so I will look for some ways to make it more resistant to high torque. Thanks!