Juxtapoisson

This is amazing. I guess the Bab5 action figures are a good bit taller than the Technic people.

(first time posting pictures) I finally made a wrought iron fence I don’t hate. It uses cross connectors (24122) on 2 axles (with 1 studs worth sticking out each end) connected by 4L rods. Capped with vaned spike (24482) and a base of squirt bottle top (20482). Each end of each axle secures into a hole in a technic brick and the bottom of the squirt tops secure to the studs on the baseplate. I am still working out colours for the caps on the stone work. There are a few other things here that aren’t settled. Link to gallery maybe? https://imgur.com/a/1LfCtOJ Also, pictures of V2 where-in the axles get an additional cross connector each, leaving only ½ a stud of axle sticking out each end. This allows axles to be connected by an additional cross connector and therefor have no length limit. It additionally allows axles to enter both sides of the brick with technic hole, requiring only 1X1 stonework instead of the 2X1 stonework minimum for V1. Due to the ½ stud connections and fewer brick connections it is not as stable as V1 and more susceptible to slight curves in the axle or baseplate. Building techniques that some might not consider legal: The squirt cap bar does not enter completely into the cross connector. The 4L rod does not fully enter the cross connectors. The half stud of axle technique that makes V2 work. The bricks attach to other bricks through a stud and receptacle system. Here is my previous graveyard using the more or less standard method of bricks and railing, which I plan to update to the full iron. The mausoleums are mirror identical with door, removable roof, and sarcophagus with room inside for a minifigure.

A bypass for having no IR transmitter on my smartphone. Note that the technology is the joke. The bad driving, bad videography, and bad building are merely bonuses.

Ok, so I have a new Xbox 1 controller and it is seemingly happily paired to my Oneplus 6T. The app sees the controller and reports back numeric values from physical inputs. I am off to the basement to twiddle with options. How can I help? I don't know anything about apps, but I have a lot of stuff. I have 2 new Buzzwizzs, an Sbrick bought last year (currently hacked into a bucket excavator). 2 boost sets in misc MOCs. A smattering of PF stuff with some IR. A PF train motor. Access to my wife's 9V metal track train stuff (probably useless here), Znaps (also useless), Mindstorms 1 (useless) and 3 (I'm not an expert), Liebherr R 9800 still in it's box, 6 Gobrix. My phone does NOT have an IR transmitter. What can I help test? Edit: To anyone else going down this road. I tried all morning to connect a Wii remote to my phone. It should work, but at least my phone won't "skip" the password entry.

Is there anywhere that people have specifically discussed/reviewed their BlueTooth controller for use with this App? I know there's some comments through out this thread, but it's tough shifting. Is there another Eurobricks thread, or is there a BrickController2 forum somewhere, or a reddit or anything? imurvai, the only thing more impressive than this app is your dedication.

Thanks, If I am building my own trucks (attached motor, motor in body, etc) should I be gearing all 4 wheels in the truck? Or just the pair of wheels (axle) to the inside?

Thank you. I did some searching,and struggled because google just wants to send me to websites to buy lego motors. I saw how it's done in the Emerald Night, and that's simple enough. Your picture linked above looks simple. But I haven't found any guide to what's going on underneath. It looks like the body and the truck pivot on the drive axle (from the motor down to the truck guts). But my head keeps saying that when the axle meets the resistance at the gears it would cause the body and truck to try to pivot. That would actually be a huge issue. So either the build is more complicated, Or I'm too foggy this morning and just wrong about it. Please advise?

Hello, I need to build a train to hall some relatively heavy freight, specifically with as little power as possible. I would appreciate ANY suggestions about maximizing train efficiency. The train will be a relatively simple freight train model. I haven't the experience to do anything especially pretty. And I am trying to save on weight. Flatbed cars. Power functions. Track is up to me. Probably a simple loop. So likely a circle or oval. No hills. Max speed isn't a big deal, faster than a crawl. Any suggestions are great. Here's the questions that have occurred to me already. Note that power use/requirements is the primary issue. Is a second motor more efficient? Given the splitting of the power between them, vs the extra weight and drag. Where should the 1 or 2 motors be placed? Front, back, middle? I don't need them to be in the engine. The freight will certainly be heavier than the engine. Would putting the motors under the heavy freight cars improve traction? Coupling rods and quartering is clearly awesome. Does it help with efficiency? Wheel and axle choices? Is efficiency affected by the length of the cars or the distance between trucks? Longer cars means fewer wheels (friction) by load volume. But I can't guess at the trade offs. Can there be too much weight on 1 truck? I will have to work out car length and bed support for the weight. What's the max distance between trucks before it looks dumb going around a corner? (I don't have to worry about hitting anything.) Is 1 motor able to pull more weight than 1 magnetic coupling can handle? I.e. with a heavy load am I likely to pull away from the cars, and maybe need some other kind of coupling? I have plastic (modern) and metal track available to me (older 9V system). I would not be getting power from the metal track. But would the metal track have better traction with the plastic wheels? I know to use panels to save weight in building the engine. Any other weight tips? Would it be more power efficient to use 1 small PF motor instead of a PF train motor? (and have to build my own motorized truck).

Is there a place to discuss camera work? DIY light tents and sets, etc?

We owe you thanks for the review. But I would especially like to thank you for the taxonomy/relationships of the people parts. If it IS a promo, then that might explain the price to brick ratio. Promos frequently have obscene prices.

I have never received such on Brickowl or ebay. There is still a minimal amount of figures that have been cloned, so it's not very much trouble to double check the ones that "could be". My wife is super hardcore about Lego only, so I don't worry too much because it won't get past her. We have received off brand bricks (megablocks, or whatever) as aparts of used sets on ebay. Usually this is a trifle.

I would love to hear ASAP about a hands on with 853840 Xtra road playmat set. How it feels, opinions about durability. Ability to connect with base plates (edge to edge). Stacking base plates on them so a creator expert building (or whatever) could be right up to the edge of the road. Sizing and scale. Compatibility with the current studded road plates. Please and thank you.

I really like your use of the elves. Personally, I am quite happy to mix Elves elves with Lego people, and having the Elves just be a tall race (or races). Please tell me, did you use an intentional mini doll specific scale here? Or did you just sort of make it work? I get so used to minifig scale that when we work in minidoll i get thrown, and my results in fixing it are pretty weak.

The stud face on the Guavian soldiers (specifically 75180 Rathtar Escape). Is the stud tall enough and the proper dimensions to interface with 1X1 round females? Such as a 1X1 round plate or 1X1 cylinder?

I am looking for a small onboard wireless camera with a real time stream for inclusion in various remote operated and self operated builds. Also not looking to break the bank. Does anyone have any suggestions/experience/reviews?