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Posts posted by legotownlinz

  1. 2 hours ago, Dav1d said:

    I wouldn't buy it but I was surprised to see that it is motorised.

    It is not only motorized, it comes with a LiIon battery similar to the Lego Power Functions rechargeable battery box that Lego always sold separately, at a higher price than the entire Mould King train with >2000 pcs, motor and remote control.

    It will be my first Non-Lego train. I've ignored all the low quality ripoffs, but it seems things have improved a lot during the last few months, both original designs and brick quality, so it is worth to give it a try. If the quality is good it would be stupid to buy Lego only, especially since Lego has neglected trains fans and actually forced us to buy third party products like BrickTracks/TrixBricks tracks or black BlueBrixx bogie plates and train windows. Lego gave me absolutely no reason to be a loyal Lego-only train fan.

  2. 7 hours ago, Amoreternum said:

    What kind of competition are you thinking of?

    This week I ordered the Tibet railway train. No idea what the quality will be, but the design is great and if there are no serious issues with this set then it competes with Lego's Creator Expert trains. And there are more such trains.

    I have not bought any of the Bluebrixx trains because they are not designed well and the quality of the bricks is said to be mediocre. I don't understand why they have chosen 6-wide over 7- or 8-wide despite claiming that their sets are made for AFOLs.


  3. Designing own MOCs requires talent and buying MOCs lots of money and patience (for the Bricklink orders). This is about to change with offers from other companies, but there is no good police station yet. The one from Bluebrixx looks rather bad. There, I assume very few people have a police station so far and consequently it will be a success for Lego.

  4. 22 hours ago, BrickfordCityFire said:

    I really like the look of the new road system actually. It's like LEGO is adopting the MILS plate system almost.

    The houses and smaller cars are ok, but the fire sets are rubbish, I never buy them anyway but still.

    In the pictures I do not like the look of the new road plates. The problem is that they have no texture, which makes the connector plates stand out. For AFOLs, using small tiles will still be the way to go.

    The small 4-wide cars are bad. Even children will notice that they don't fit their 6-wide cars.


  5. 13 hours ago, coaster said:

    This has been fun, but boy am I sick of sorting parts!

    Sorting parts can be fun indeed. But in your case, I think it is a waste of talent. Please focus on your track system, the next months will decide which company will be the main supplier of molded tracks. It's obvious that TrixBrix and BlueBrixx have ambitious plans. Use your lead position and be the first to offer other elements. 

  6. 16 hours ago, Duq said:

    Not holding my breath... There won't be another Creator Expert - they won't want to compete with the Croc.

    I agree that a new engine this year is not very likely. But maybe a product that complements the Crocodile instead of competing with it?

    There are several Creator Expert cars on shelves at the same time, same should be possible for trains. Wishful thinking...

    Anyway, I will get this and this in 2021 if Lego doesn't want my money. ;-)



  7. 24 minutes ago, coaster said:

    Lots of options.  The turntable piece has an axle hole that goes all the way through it, so you could motorize it from above or below.  Alternatively, the throw are has a bar end fitting and uses exactly a 1-stud stroke, so you could make your own mechanism to drive it if you like.  What the actual best way is, I don't know!  But seeing what you guys come up with will be fun!

    This flexibility is great, best on market.

  8. 14 minutes ago, Fuppylodders said:

    Modulars will keep their usual flat baseplates. (well, I'm seriously hoping.... but as with all things, it could change in the future :shrug_confused: )

    I wish the modulars use a base plate that supports wireless lighting like the one from i-Brix. Until Lego has such a solution they should continue to use the flat baseplates.

  9. Are there any rumors yet? How many train-related sets will we get in 2021?

    In the last years, there was at least one train-related set and an average of two sets per year:


    • 10277 Crocodile Locomotive
    • 40370 Trains 40th Anniversary Set (gift)
    • 60271 Main Square (tram)


    • 70424 Ghost Train Express
    • 71044 Disney Train


    • 75955 Hogwarts Express
    • 60197 Passenger Train
    • 60198 Cargo Train


    • 10259 Winter Village Station


    • 10254 Winter Holiday Train


    I've listed only sets in minifig scale.

  10. I don't see any reason to remove interiors or save parts somewhere else. Modulars should get better, not worse, and I hope that Lego will manage to offer sets with more pieces at the same price. Otherwise, their offers will soon look underwhelming compared to the ones of competitors. Imho they already do, other brands do not save tiles of the upper floors...

  11. 40 minutes ago, Toastie said:

    The example you showed is really restricted in space. I don't believe that this is generally (but of course here specifically!) the case. Correct me, if I am wrong.

    I think my example is typical for most trains designed for Powered Up. It uses a standard base plate and has a size similar to many other engine, it's not a particularly small engine.


    46 minutes ago, Toastie said:

    What is freely available in the left engine?

    Left and right engine are 99.9% identical. The only difference is a polarity change of the motor.

    I use two motors in every engine. It's a rule of thumb that one motor is required per three wagons, otherwise the train can't climb the inclines of two plates per straight track.

  12. Here's an actual train and for comparison a typical USB cable.

    • A Lego Pup plug requires a free space of at least one stud with two studs being better to have enough room for the excess length of the cable.
    • The USB-A plug has a length of five studs (not including the metal part that would be inside the jack!) and six studs if you don't want to cripple the cable.
    • Neither left nor right to the battery box is enough space for the 2 x 4 wide voltage range brick, least of all for the USB cable.


  13. On 11/12/2020 at 11:56 AM, MAB said:

    Me too. I cannot see the point of a brick built bonsai.

    My real ones all died. :cry2:

    On 11/13/2020 at 7:35 AM, Actionfigure said:

    I am afraid they copied my bouquet! After all the bonsai wasn´t an idea of Lego itself, too!

    They did not. The leaked image looks completely different. But nice attempt to lure us into your website. ;-)

  14. The PF power supply looks good.

    The wide voltage range input brick is big and additional space is required for the USB-A plug and the Micro-USB plug on the other side of the cable. Special very thin and very short USB cable would be required. All together, this solution exceeds the available free space of most trains. I don't see any chance this approach is practical.


  15. 16 minutes ago, Toastie said:

    But a bridge rectifier and two capacitors along with a voltage regulator ("the universal input") is very far, far away from any "mess".

    Indeed. But you need space for the rectifier and the capacitors in the wheel set or you need extra space somewhere else which would require a redesign of most trains. That should be possible for most trains, but it is an obstacle that holds possible customers off from buying the product.

    I get the point that the company behind Keybrick One is not excited about the idea of vastly redesigning their product and I'm fine if they don't do it. I just wanted to say what features would make me buy it. And this is definitely convenient recharging of my trains without removing any parts. If I have to disassemble anything, then I can stick to Lego's hub, which allows me to just replace the batteries and run the train again without waiting until the batteries are charged.

  16. 11 hours ago, Toastie said:

    Scenario 1: Let us assume, my 9V tracks are powered with 5V rectified DC and some amperage at hand. Yes, there will be some voltage drops, which will be taken care of in scenario 2. Also, dirty power drop-outs caused by faulty power pickup/track connection may not be tolerated by your device. Have you tested that? Charging with crappy DC voltage? No over-voltage just crappy max. 5V?

    And there it goes...

    That's what I meant when I suggested an universal input that accepts any voltage.

    Reducing the voltage to 5V on the tracks is not enough, you need the rectifier on the train and not in the power supply because the polarity changes when you turn around the train. This either destroys the Keybrick One or it won't charge.

    12 hours ago, keybrickone said:

    As for the two later points: it's shifting cost to those who actually need such a solution, which is probably best for many customers.

    And what is the use-case where you don't need these add-ons?

    I'd say that most of the trains hubs are used in trains and there you need some way to charge without disassembling the train. That's what 95% of your customers need.

  17. 7 hours ago, keybrickone said:

    As I said it'll be an add-on rather than integrated within a "v2".

    Please do it right and support a wide voltage range directly in Keybrick Two. Any external solution is a mess because

    • it requires extra space
    • it is complicated to connect homebrew stuff
    • it's more likely the Keybrick gets damaged
    • electronics is required for every addon

  18. I'm also hoping for version two. Here are my thoughts and reasons why I'm not ordering the current product:

    • The battery recharging hassle is the main customer pain point of the Lego hub but unfortunately it is not addressed by the Keybrick One. The USB connector is as inaccessible from the outside of a train as Lego's battery holder, thus no improvement. Wireless charging or power pickup wheels would be required.
    • No slowdown: Nice to have, but I implicitly compensate the decreasing voltage by using a higher speed step. Of course this only works when not using the highest speed step with fresh batteries, which I rarely do, so that there is a margin to compensate the voltage drop.
    • Less weight is an anti-feature. The more weight the better to have enough traction. All my trains suffer from slipping wheels in inclines so I build them as heavy as possible.
    • Eco, normal and boost mode: Using a slower speed increases the battery live, but why should I limit it in the battery box if I can have the same result by just not using the highest speed level?
    • The LED indicating the mode cannot be seen when the battery box is inside the train, making it impossible to change the mode without disassembling the train. A beeper instead of the LED would be more useful.