legotownlinz

Eurobricks Citizen
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Posts posted by legotownlinz


  1. 43 minutes ago, Paperballpark said:

    My only issue with soldering would be if I eventually took that train apart, I'd then have a motor which ran in the opposite direction to everything else!

    I managed to fit two motors, two battery boxes, two IR Receivers and a polarity switch into my Horizon Express cab. Given the small size of the polarity switch, I don't really see the issue with the size of it.

    You can either label reversed motors or just test the motors whenever building a new model. Of course it is also possible to restore the old polarity. I'm using two motors in all engines and rarely take trains apart, so it's not an issue for me.

    A switch that must not be switched feels wrong for me, thus I'd never use the switch in my trains.

    A single IR receiver is better than two because separate receivers may run out of sync if one of them misses a command. This sometimes happens with my high speed trains where a motor is located in each engine.


  2. There could be a great future for Lego trains. I'm collection Lego, N and H0 trains and all but Lego sucks when you actually want to play. N trains look great because they are usually made to scale, but they often don't work reliable. H0 models are either expensive or not to scale and a decent H0 layout takes lots of place. Both N and H0 models are too sensitive to run them on the floor, but most people don't have an extra room to build a permanent layout (which gets boring when completed). Sometimes it is even difficult to find a spot to touch a model without breaking off handrails or other small details. When I invite friends, I make sure they handle the trains with care before I allow them to play. All in all, N and H0 gauge are nice if you have a large room left or if you just want to collect models and displays them in a showcase. Otherwise, Lego is perfect and if there are more products like the Horizon Express or the Maersk train, it could attract many adult model railroaders. And it's nearly impossible to destroy a Lego train. All I've damaged so far is the yellow lever of a switch.


  3. 1 hour ago, Paulbricks said:

    As for the reversing switch, they are hard to obtain, especially here in the UK, and never seen one for sale on ebay or whatever, so far...so soldering is the way to go.

    The reversing switch is part of 8293 Power Functions Tuning Set, and can probably be purchased separately in the Lego web store.

    Anyway, the soldering solution is cheaper and looks better. It takes less than 10 minutes per motor for people with average soldering skills.


  4. A single motor for two Horizon Express sets is not enough for a decent speed. Inclines do not work at all without a second motor. It is easier to put the second motor in the second engine than both motors in the first engine because the engine's bogies are not identical, the front one is too small to be replaced with a motor.

    I've described here how I changed the polarity of the motor. This is necessary no matter if you put the motor in the second engine or the second bogie of the same engine.


  5. Today’s Lego City train sets include a PowerFunctions motor that works very well for short trains. However, if you add additional wagons, the traction of a single motor is not sufficient. An obvious way to fix this issue is adding a second motor. Another option is adding weight to the engine as the motor has power for some additional wagons but there is not enough friction between wheels and rails.

    In this posting I discuss an issue with the first approach: While adding a second motor sounds like a straightforward task, you will encounter a problem: The motor of the second bogie must be rotated so that the cables of both motors point towards the holes at the center of the engines base plate. Due to the rotation, the motors move in different directions.

    To make the second motor go in the same direction, the polarity of the motor must be changed. This can either be achieved by swapping the cable leads either in the plug, in the middle of the cable or inside the motor housing.

    I prefer the last approach – swapping the leads directly at the motor – because its easier to open the motor housing than the plug and the modification will not be visible.

    What you need:

    • PowerFunctions train motor
    • Soldering iron
    • Torx T6 screwdriver
    • Tweezers (optional, helps with getting the gears in place again)

    Instructions:

    1. Remove all six screws at the bottom of the motor and open the motor housing.
    2. Remove the gears and axles. You can just take them out, they are not fixed once the housing is open.
    3. Remove the motor and the clamp piece that is used as strain relief.
    4. Unsolder the leads from motor.
    5. Put the motor back into the housing at its original position.
    6. Cross the wires and arrange the wires and the yellow inductor. It is possible to cross the leads below the clamp piece, it still snaps in with the crossed leads below it.
    7. Solder the leads to the motor.
    8. Restore the gears and axles. This works best with tweezers.
    9. Close and screw down the housing.

    Motor after opening the housing:

     DSC_0376.jpg

    DSC_0379.jpg

    Motor removed from the housing, leads crossed:

     DSC_0386.jpg

    Unsoldered motor:

     DSC_0388.jpg

    Motor back in the housing:

    DSC_0392.jpg

     

    A folIow-up on how to change the polarity of Powered Up motors can be found here.


  6. Any fairground set except a ferris wheel is fine for me. A coaster would be best. I'm confident that the new set won't be a ferris wheel because there's no market for such a product in Creator Expert line. Everybody interested in the fairground sets has already bought the current one. Why should anybody buy another one?


  7. 5 hours ago, Vilhelm22 said:

    If they bring back 7996, they had better change it slightly so that you can operate each switch individually - having two controlled by one switch was an awful idea.

    That would be nice, but if they do not change it, I'm also fine. Better the old desing than nothing.


  8. 36 minutes ago, Paulbricks said:

    I did like the ICE Train, ultra modern and although the new version is good, the previous version was more realistic. I know the real one came off the tracks at Eschede, killing over a 100 people, due to faulty/worn "tyre".

     

    I like the new 60051 much better than the old 7897. The new one has a more elegant design.


  9. 9 hours ago, M_slug357 said:

    Hmmm... seems pretty clear that 9V stuff is the most savory.

    I'm curious as to what might happen to the 9V aftermarket once @coaster floods the market with 9V straights... lol

    Hmm, I don't foresee large investments in technology that is dead for many years. If I had 9V trains, I would rather convert them to PF than buying metal tracks. For home layouts, PF has so many advantages over 9V. Charging batteries is annoying when running trains the whole day, for example at exhibitions, in such case the 9V system is perfect. But sales for exhibition layout is insignificant and will never justify molds. 


  10. On 9.1.2018 at 7:15 AM, coaster said:

     I'm all for wide curves though, and the R200 is definitely on my "really want to do" list. 

    First of all, thank you for all the time and money you spent on producing high quality Lego-compatible tracks. I will certainly buy some of your products because I want to use more than the five types of tracks offered by Lego and your tracks are superior to competing 3D printed tracks.

    Regarding product strategy, I would ask you to stay down to earth. How many people need R200 curves? Imho virtually zero, nobody has the space to use them. Don't make the mistake to assume people in this forum represent the needs of the average customer. The average customer wants to replace the flexible tracks of a double track oval's outer track with solid curved tracks. The R56 PF curve is the one and only product that will sell in high quantities and should be top priority.

    Like all the other people contributing to this thread I’m looking forward to molded tracks and switches. But injection molds are too expensive to compete with 3D printed stuff in such a niche market. It would be a real pity if your business fails because of wrong product decisions induced by fan discussions. When you develop the next product, check if it is useful for the average 10 year old Lego fan. If not, drop the idea and work on something else. Once you have made lots of money with the R56 tracks, it’s fine to do R200 curves and exotic switches. But until then, focus on products that appeal to a large number of people, not only those who run very large Lego layouts at exhibitions.

    To me building a Lego world means to recreate the spirit of a scene, not rebuilding it to scale. The latter works much better with H0 or N model trains. Lego worlds are rarely realistic and they don’t have to be to look great. Neither the curved tracks.


  11. 4 hours ago, Littleworlds said:

    The Wiener Linien sets look really cool, if a bit pricey. I will show them to a friend of mine who is from Vienna too.:classic:

    I should mention that there are some issues with the Wiener Linien sets one should be aware of before buying them. The tramway (Straßenbahn  E1) and the underground train U6 are not as stable as original Lego models. I used glue for a few parts, otherwise playing with them is annoying when they break apart whenever you touch them.

    The tramway (Straßenbahn  E1) is not compatible with switches, it gets stuck on the guide rails. I'm just fixing the issue by milling off a few parts with a CNC machine.

    The short bus and the other Silberpfeil-underground (old version, there's a new one, too) are fine.


  12. I read this thread regularly because I love all the speculations about new products. Of course one could argue it is pointless to do so, but it's fun.

    Imho the leaked images are real though they do not show the final product. That's quite obvious because everything except the engines is missing. No one knows how old the leaked images are, they might show a draft from months ago.

    I wonder why the new cargo engine was described as "like 60052, but green". Either the design has changed between the leaked images and the final product, or the set description is not accurate at all. These two engines are entirely different, one is European, the other one US style. They have nothing in common except they are both cargo engines.