CCSG

I came across this website:https://www.brickcoaster.com/ in the past and bookmarked it.

If you only plan on running a small tram, you could go with Trix Brix track which has R32 and R24 curves.

Great designs! Thanks for sharing. Are those washers that you use for weight, attached to Technic pins? I like your link and pin couplers and may adopt them on my railway.

@Modeltrainman I don't know any German either I was able to use the built in translator on Safari to understand Lok24's different code. The Pybricks website and instructions are in English. @BatteryPoweredBricks not sure that I had that problem. I seemed to have a problem uploading the firmware, my hub kept timing out or reporting a problem. Once I had the firmware installed, I was able to install the Motorcontrol program and It worked. I like the Power Up system as I'm really not a fan of IR control but am a little surprised that LEGO doesn't off much in the way of instructions on how to use it.

Thanks Lok24! I was able to install the Motor Control on my blue cargo train (60052) with 2 motors and everything works great. Patrick

I’m impressed with how you did the swimmers who are half out of the water. How deep is the pool?

I really like this and it looks to perform perfectly!

I went back to Futurashop.com who sells the IR kits and found a nice schematic which should answer the rest of my questions

Thanks, I did try that but I don’t think the pages that I was looking for have been archived. I have also tried emailing Lucas a couple of times without reply. Unfortunately, I sense he got “burned” on the project and removed all his YouTube videos as well. I have the IR transmitters assembled, wired up and working. Right now I need to build some extension cables and mount them on my layout. Hopefully I can figure out how to wire up the sensors and switch servos when the time comes.

I’ve finally built the Ardutrain IR transmitters and looking to set it up. I meant to copy the webpages but didn’t before it was taken down.

You’re welcome My Mike D. It does need a little refining but plan on updating when I do. I have to put together a BrickLink order to get some parts before I do that. I haven’t ordered from BrickLink yet and feel it will take a little while as I generally always like to make sure I have everything in my basket before I checkout to save on shipping. I’ve never really built anything with Technic parts before so kind of feel I have no idea what I need. Hope the pictures help your build and that you will share some pictures.

This is a really nice build. Could you tell me what wheels and cranks you used?

http://309220CC-5247-44E2-999F-297F7CC8D025 by Patrick Kramer, on Flickr 309220CC-5247-44E2-999F-297F7CC8D025 by Patrick Kramer, on Flickr 955E1961-DAFD-4040-9A9C-1C641E14DBEC by Patrick Kramer, on Flickr

High_Admiral, after replying to your post, I realized I had uploaded the wrong photo describing the switch that only allows the narrow gauge to go straight through. I edited my original post with the correct photo. Hope that clears things up a little.

Testing has been limited so far to mainly the narrow gauge that passes straight through the switch. I haven’t tested the standard gauge, other than pushing it through by hand. On the dual gauge switch, I realized I need a guard rail on the standard gauge divergent route to prevent the flange from “picking” the narrow gauge frog. This will be easy with a rail from Trixbrix of the proper radius. I think right now, there would be no problem going straight through it which will be normal route. I’ll do some testing soon with the standard gauge equipment. Full testing will require some parts from Trixbrix, fortunately they are running a Black Friday sale right now.