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      Eurobricks Event 2018, Billund Denmark   12/09/17

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CaL

Eurobricks Vassals
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About CaL

  1. Bulk Train Track

    And also take a look at 4Dbrix from the USA. They also have a European shop on Bricklink. I was quite surprised by the quality TrixBrix achieved and already own two triple switches :) And as far as I understood Bricktracks.com does produce MOLDED curves in different diameters, which should have an even better look than 3D-printed ones...
  2. Type E Coupler for LEGO Trains

    I was just wondering why not just simply revive the old magnets as 3d-printed parts?
  3. Office Christmas Train

    Hi from Hamburg, Germany! From my experience, the 9V transformer has enough power to run 2 train motors on the same track. The problem is the weakness of the motors themselves, especially in comparison to the old 12 V motors... I would also isolate the track layout into two halves. It is easiest done, if you leave a 1 stud gap between 2 track sections. And don´t forget to reconnect the track sections mechanically with two plates 1x3 at the outer sides of the rails and two 2x3 plates in the section between the rails ;) regards CaL
  4. Some help for lifted track design

    Dear Jim, I already ordered tracks from trixBrix and was quite surprised what is possible today with 3D-printing! Yesterday I recieved my second delivery from TrixBrix and it does include the incline package. I bought it after I saw the Video Review from Duncan on his YouTube channel DunksterBricks: Feel free to take a look at it! Regards CaL
  5. [MOC] Amtrak P42DC

    Hi bummelsp4449, very nice job! Just a tip conecerning the issue with leaving a gap for the eye of the PF receiver: Why don´t you use a buwizz to power your loco? I just a week ago used it to re-power my 12V TEE-engine from set 7740. The issues of the infrared eye are gone using buwizz because it works with bluetooth. Similar concpest are Sbrick and the upcoming PFxbrick? Kind regards CaL
  6. Help with fence for train line

    Hi, I would mount them on hinge plates, part number 2429 and 2430. Regards CaL
  7. Dear Jtlan, may I ask wo More questions? 1) Why did you choose grey as colour for the rods? 2) Which manufacturer are the wheels from? Regards CaL
  8. Hi, what a wonderful rendition of this iconic little engine from my home country! Reading about all the problems you have fitting the PF IR receiver, I was wondering if you have ever considered installing a BUWIZZ? It really saves you a lot of space! Especially for tank engines like your BR standard class 2 ;) Also a Strick would be a good choice to avoid the need for the IR receivers eye to poke out somewhere. Or if you want to also have steam sound, then take a look at what the guys from PF bricks are doing: http://buwizz.com https://www.sbrick.com https://fxbricks.com/pfxbrick/ And just for fun take a look at my rendition of the BR 24 from 1996, where we had only 6 wides and no BBB wheels :) Regards CaL
  9. @Lowa: Concerning the LED placement -> Just swap the positions with the 1x1 tiles positions. So you will have more space against the outer case. Old do you also have a dividing wall between the buttons and the top studded part?
  10. I really like this switch! But to add more flexibility for which function to use it and also to help naming/numbering it, I would like to have the same number of studs as the original switch. So we can apply custom stickers to e.g. to 1x1 or 2x2 tiles. Hope the attached sketch illustrates, what I mean...