Paknaloid

@jfr4n5en the rear end looks great - please could you let me know what you did to mod the rear like that? Which extra parts did you need? Thank you very much in advance :)

Thank you ?

@Dragunov2 This? https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=93609&name=Arm Skeleton, Bent with Clips (Horizontal Grip)&category=[Minifigure, Body Part]#T=S&C=11&O={"color":11,"iconly":0} or this? https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?id=1851#T=C

@Dragunov2 Actually, there are two things of which I'm not certain how they work on your render - 1) the aforementioned black clips at the end of the antenna pieces, and 2) how they are attached to the side of the car:

@Dragunov2 on your render, what are these black bits on the end of the antenna pieces? And, did Bruce Lowell share what he did re: the LBG strips above and below the rear panel? Like @keymaker, I really would like to know which parts are required (I'm sure as long as I order the right parts I'll be able to figure it out without instructions). My background is Technic so I have virtually no spare creator parts, so want to get the order right!! Thank you

@TheDeeGee love the decals on the wheels - did you make them yourself? Also - @Dragunov2 - Bruce Lowell has modded the rear further. I’d love to know how the lights are done so I can order the right parts. In fact I’d love to know what he did to mod the whole rear end... https://www.instagram.com/p/BvHkzIinhbH/

Ah ok I think I get it. I find it hard to visualise without having the set. I’ll order the extra blue and white parts and by the time I get the set hopefully someone will figure out how to do it :)

@Dragunov2 I’d be interested to hear what parts are needed to solve this, because I won’t be getting the set until May but thought it looked simple, but obviously you have the set and it sounds like it isn’t as simple to solve as I thought. Not sure I understand what yo7 mean by brackets?

I imagine it’s the same as stock - just with the 1x1 and 1x2 slopes instead of plates...? So attached in the same way.

@Dragunov2

oops. Thank you so much. Schoolboy error.

@jb70 I am close to completing the Pimp my Bugatti build - firstly, thank you for all of your hard work and generosity in providing the instructions. I have a question - the rear wheels have a lot of play in them, e.g. when I pick up the car they hang down too far, and move around so much that the calipers often fall off, and the car almost crab-steers. I've included some pics below. Is there any obvious error that I've made? I took apart the CV connection and couldn't see any issues, but I've certainly missed something... Thank you so much for your (and anyone else's) help solving this. Hanging/loose rear wheels: Rear axle connection to wheels - there is too much 'play' in and out within in the circled area, meaning the wheels hang loose and shift in and out at odd angles:

@LegoHoops - Hi, hope you don't mind me asking, but please could you describe and/or post a photo showing how you closed the front fender gaps so cleanly? I moved the entire inside fender units 1L nearer to the outer fenders, but my solution doesn't look as neat as yours, and actually still leaves a very small gap at the back of the fenders. I think I can see a small spanner thing clasping the inner fenders and holding them outwards, but it isn't clear to me. I'm moving towards the end of my build now and am trying to implement many of the Mods in these pages, this is one I haven't quite been able to figure out! Thanks in advance.

I started with 1mm but found it too fine for Lego. I switched to 4mm and found that ideal, although if you want to do a lot of it then it probably couldn’t hurt to get a 2mm or 1mm as well, in case there are hard to reach sections. E.g I did the wheel hubs on my Porsche as well, 4mm was fine and I think they look good but there were a few internal areas I couldn’t quite reach. Anyway I found it pretty satisfying doing it all, and it extended the life of the project too which was handy, as I’m in between builds until I hopefully get the Bugatti for Christmas ?

@Aleh there’s a few on YouTube, something like this is a good example...

No problem. I should have said that the 4mm nib ended up working the best for me. The 1mm is good for tiny parts like half bushes, but is really too fine for much else and it’s trickier to get an even finish with the smallest nib size. Interested to see how you get on :)

Yup - it is called a Molotow liquid chrome, I got mine from amazon. It doesn’t hold up to playing, but for display purposes I was so impressed with it. All the reviews I read of spray paint said they are more matte, but this pen has a good mirror finish.

@Aleh thank you! To be honest, I chromed them myself using a ‘liquid chrome’ pen. Time consuming, easy to mess up, and not as perfect as genuine chrome, but from a distance it is hard to tell and I’m very pleased with the results. Much cheaper than getting it done properly.

@Johnny1360 thank you - and no, I’m not from the Indianapolis area, I’m from the United Kingdom area :) I just liked the company name. i know what you mean about the bull bar - I preferred the shape I had on my own design as it was more curved around the shape of the nose. However it was very poorly attached to the trick and I couldn’t figure out a clean way to fix it on. i used some extra parts to mod the trailer, but @M_longer‘s original design uses only parts from the stock set so is a true ‘C model’ trailer.

I've finally finished my build. I did quite a lot of chroming. Credit @M_longer for the design of the trailer, which I then modified slightly. Also credit RB Instructions for the bull-bar design, which I decided to adopt as my own version wasn't securely attached to the front and this provides a neater solution: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-18420/RB-instructions/bull-catcher-version-2-for-42078-mack-anthem-and-c-modell-mack-daycab/ The load of 'concrete' pipe segments is not Lego, obvs, Thanks for looking. Oh, @ mods - Sariel's thumbnail builder isn't working for me, so apologies if the pics are too large.

Sorry if this has been answered elsewhere (I couldn't see that it had) - does the rechargeable battery box (84599) have exactly the same size dimensions as the non-rechargeable version (88000)? I don't care at all about performance, I'm looking to follow someone else's MOC instructions which call for 84599, but as 88000 is so much cheaper I'd like to use it instead if the sizes are identical and so swapping wouldn't affect the build. Thanks for your help.

Nope - although I'd love to someday! I'm actually looking at Jurgen Krooshoop's Ultimate 8043. Of course, I need to pick up a second-hand 8043 first.... After operating some real-life excavators at Diggerland UK, I caught the excavator bug and really want to build a remote control one that's capable of actually excavating.

Thanks, both - I can't justify the £70-£80 for a rechargeable one on BL (or even £50-£60 on eBay), so will take the hit on performance and go for the bog-standard version for a tenner. I don't envision using it a huge amount anyway - a play now and again, but the MOC is going to be for display 80% of the time.

@LegoHoops big thumbs up, it looks great.

I will say that it should work both ways - if someone wants to post something without fear of censorship, the right of anyone else to be offended by that post should also be respected - rather than thinking everyone who takes offence is part of a general 'softening' of society. As with everything like this, it's a balancing act (and obvs, a bigger and more important question than just EB forum posts :)) And of course, if anyone criticises this post, I'll be on them like sh*t on a monkey