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About vermontcathy

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  1. vermontcathy

    Lego Licensed Parts available from Bricks & Pieces

    I think that's from the new Safari jeep set, 60267:
  2. vermontcathy Noob Questions

    Someday maybe I'll make a video. Feel free to PM me. Instructions for Instructions in Studio: A. Check off "step view" above the parts list (the Step List) on the right. This will hide all pieces in steps below the currently-selected step. B. Separate your model piece list into steps: Click the "+" in the bottom right to add a step (a new, empty "step 2" - make sure it added the new empty step as Step 2, and not at the very bottom of your steps (once you have lots of steps). If it inserted it elsewhere, move it so that it's Step 2. Select several pieces in your model that are accessible (not buried). Drag them into the empty Step 2. Click on a piece in Step 1. All pieces in later steps (all pieces already separated into steps) will disappear. Repeat steps B1-B3 until all the pieces in your model are separated into steps. Basically you're deconstructing your model, backwards (the first pieces you remove/move into a step will be the last step). If you made any submodels, select them from the drop down above the parts list (drop down will say "Main Model" at first) and repeat the process to separate the pieces into steps, if necessary (if it's a submodel with only a few pieces, it may not be necessary). Choose "main model" from the drop down to return to the main model. C. Click "Instruction" icon. Click "Page Design". D. See what you've been given, and tweak as necessary - shrinking the parts list when it's too big and covers the model; moving, resizing, or rotating the model. To resize or rotate the model, click on the model but not a specific piece - if you click a specific piece, on the right there will be a blue button that says "Activate buffer exchange" and you don't want that. You want the button that says "change step view". Click that, then you can rotate and resize. E. If you discover a problem with your steps, click exit and fix. It will remember the work you've done on the instructions up to that point. (assuming you've been saving) F. Export the instructions to PDF. "2x" will give the same size page (last I tried it) but the images will be more detailed - sharper when you zoom in. If you're not actually printing the instructions on paper, paper size doesn't matter. If you are printing to paper, when you open the PDF in Acrobat, you can tell it to shrink pages to fit the paper size you've selected, so it's never been an issue for me.
  3. vermontcathy

    Lego Licensed Parts available from Bricks & Pieces

    Just FYI, the way I get part numbers is I go to, put in the set number (or search on the set name), click on "parts" and the numbers are there.
  4. No worries - we've gotten in touch.
  5. Nice instructions (and nice alt model - too bad I don't like squid, or I'd buy that set, to do that alt). You've tweaked the auto-generated instructions quite a bit to make it look extra pro - nice. I've added some arrows with notes to some of my instructions, and on some I've put a photo (or rendering of the model) at the beginning; I should probably do that for all of them. I doubt this is your first set of steps made in Studio - although you've only got that one listed on Rebrickable. And you're right - it can be a total headache. But you (and I) have now learned the headachy issues and can avoid them, and do things quicker, now that we've got experience. That's why I was saying it's up to the OP - if they're going to use the skills again, dive in and learn it, because the 2nd, 3rd, 4th time you make instructions, it'll go easier and easier. If you won't make more, and/or don't have the time or patience to learn it, hire someone. One last thing - Perfection is the enemy of the good. The last 10% of awesomeness in your instructions probably took 90% of your time. If someone can be satisfied with "fully functional and gets the job done" vs. your totally beautiful instructions, it can be done a lot faster. I probably spent less than 45 minutes tweaking the semi-auto-generated Studio instructions for this alt. (I say semi-auto-generated instructions because you have to separate the pieces into steps first, which is time-consuming).
  6. You first have to make "steps" in Studio - "add step", select some pieces, and drag into that step. Then set it to hide pieces that are in later steps than the one you're in (so you don't see the pieces you've already added to a step). You're basically deconstructing your model a handful of pieces at a time. It's a bit tedious. And you have to make some sub-models sometimes (not always). Once your whole model is separated into steps, then it can auto-generate instructions. Then you tweak the instructions - rotating the model so you can see all new pieces, and sometimes resizing the box showing the new pieces, and/or resizing the model. Then save as PDF. I'd say, if you're going to use the learned skills again - making more models - then it's totally worth it to learn it yourself. If you don't think you'll ever make another model with instructions, then it would probably be more efficient to pay someone. A grand or two?? Good lord, I'd do it for a Bookstore ($179 + tax). It's fun. Instructions that I put some effort into tweaking (as opposed to the medieval keep instructions where the first few steps look like crap):
  7. I would do it for not that much money; I enjoy it. PM me. I use and have done a 1300+ piece model with steps. Actually, I see I need to tweak some of the first few steps in the PDF for the biggest model, (instructions at I mostly work off the rotatable online steps at bricklink: (then click on "Building Steps"). I can provide both the online steps and the PDF. makes it fairly easy, once you learn the software - separate pieces into steps, have it auto generate instructions, and typically I just have to tweak by rotating some instruction steps so you can see all the pieces that were added per step, and resizing the box showing the new pieces, and/or resizing the model. But I totally get it if you don't want to invest the time to learn it - I've certainly had frustrations along the way while learning.
  8. These are all very cool! I'd love if people could share LXF or Studio files of these models, but I realize not everyone enjoys building their model a 2nd time on the computer...
  9. vermontcathy

    Is Creator's Three-In-One Line Underappreciated by AFOLs?

    I love the Creator 3 in 1 sets. I don't tend to just leave a set together forever - I like taking them apart, rebuilding, and I love alt builds (both the ones from Lego, and ones available at or on YouTube). I sometimes make my own alt builds as well. My favorite creator sets are: 31079: Sunshine Surfer Van - the number of alt builds available for this is unreal 31063: Beachside Vacation, 31035: Beach Hut, and 7346: Seaside House (yeah, there's a theme here) 31051: Lighthouse Point (my favorite) 31025: Mountain Hut 31048: Lakeside Lodge - last year when I wasn't impressed with the Christmas Winter Village set, I made this set into a winter scene:
  10. vermontcathy

    [MOC] "A Home for Anton" - My ReBuild of 21310

    Have you considered creating instructions, or a Studio or lxf file for this MOC? I love it, and would love to build it (and would pay a bit for the instructions).
  11. vermontcathy

    [CONTEST] Benny's Spaceships Building Academy

    Nevermind - looks like mine doesn't qualify - it's an alt build, no added pieces. I don't see a way to delete a post, so hopefully an admin can delete my post in the Special Lego Themes forum.
  12. vermontcathy

    [CONTEST] Benny's Spaceships Building Academy

    This is where it should be posted: ?
  13. vermontcathy

    Lego Quality Reference

    No, I don't think I've had problems with the new ones. I'm not 100% sure, because they got mixed in, as I took the model apart. But when I did an alt build that used almost all the pieces (like 90%), the only new break was a 2x6 plate, which hadn't been replaced. As I found broken pieces in the pile, I chucked them, and I had enough pieces to finish the build. The new pieces weren't as tight. I knew with the original pieces, right from the beginning, that there was an issue because they were so tight and I had to press hard to attach them to another piece. The new pieces are not overly tight like that. I'm not overly surprised they replaced them. 40 pieces, at about 10 cents each, is only $4, so it wasn't a huge outlay for them, to make a good customer happy (I've bought a decent amount from S@H in the past year). In fact I said I could order them and pay for them myself, but it was more the principal of the thing, and something I thought they should be aware of. If no one ever told them of certain problems with the pieces, then the wouldn't be able to correct the problem.
  14. vermontcathy

    Lego Quality Reference

    The pieces were in a sealed box, in sealed polybags. They weren't used parts. It seems like you're having trouble believing that 1) new pieces (though manufactured 6 or 7 years ago, and sealed in a box for that time) can break upon first use, and that 2) a box can have a different set of seal codes on one end, and it's still new & sealed - that it came from Lego like that. (here's another thread that talks about the double tape seals: Now, it is possible that some other aspect of how the set was stored contributed to the pieces breaking - temperature, humidity, etc., esp. since it had a smell to it (not unpleasant.. maybe smelled like incense). But the colors that cracked were colors known for cracking. I believe the set was NIB and that it came from Lego with the different seals. And sorry, the set was enough of a splurge - I'm not going to buy "at least 2 or 3" of the set I want, so that I can get it in the sealed brown shipping box.
  15. vermontcathy

    Lego Quality Reference

    Well since the set hasn't been sold at S@H for over 5 years, there's no other way to buy it - stores don't have it any more. Where would you buy it, if not eBay? It's authentic Lego. I have no doubt whatsoever. And it would be a bit too detail-oriented for counterfeiters to copy Lego so closely that THEIR reddish brown bricks crack frequently, as well :) Also, WRT different seal codes on either end of the box - it's not unheard of: