Brickend

@Samolot I've just asked the question about wheels on the information topic as I too was undecided about original vs. contemporary: hopefully Jim's response gives you some useful guidance

@Jim Thanks for the clarification, that makes it much clearer to me.

Hi Jim, given the first line of the brief says " This contest is all about recreating a classic studded set, using contemporary studless LEGO Technic.", what's your view on the use of original tires, even when they aren't considered contemporary? I think it's causing a few of us some confusion; the originals score highest on closeness to original (obviously) but does the contemporary rule apply, given that tires are already studless by default?

We're definitely thinking alike, unfortunately it didn't work out! - It did have dual compressors (one each side) and they were geared up as much as possible until the point that the resistance in the drive-train from turning them was starting to overcome the traction available (especially through differentials). This was still a lot slower than a motor driven compressor solution and the performance to justify them just wasn't there. My original hope was that they would come close to supplying enough air to fulfill a typical load cycle, but the reality was that they barely offered any assistance. Fun to test, but definitely should have built a test rig rather than laboring over cramming it into this project!

Thanks for the suggestion - you can see those tires in the earlier photos. I have to say I'm not really a fan of them due to their lack of sidewall, but I totally see where you are coming from. As the rules are biased heavily on the similarity to the original and because the scoring system does not reward the use of contemporary parts over obsolete, for the purpose of the competition at least, I'm going to go with the originals. In an ideal world, they whole thing should be built out of current pieces, but we'd be a bit scuppered by the air tank.

Thanks! The lights might end up being temporary if the stickers arrive in time and look better.

An update: I think it's about 95% there, have got a few colour tweaks and finishing details to address. Have been playing around with tire choice; I think I will go for the originals due to the rules of the competition, but I do like how the newer tires make the loader look like a version of a much larger real life loader. I also wanted to share at this point before I take off the compressor system prior to entry into the competition - it turned out to be a failed experiment as it doesn't deliver a enough air when wheel driven to be worthwhile, but I thought some would find it interesting - and something to think about for motorization. The hoses are currently aftermarket for the purposes of getting the hose runs right without ruining real hose. There are some improvements to be made here, but this will be easier with more space and less complexity once the compressor system is off.

Could come in handy for the Flying Brick!

This would be impressive if it was just a B-model of a generic dump truck, but to do a B-model that resembles a real vehicle and stays on brand is exceptional.

My concern is that one motor is orientated to drive the rear and the other is spun 180 degrees to drive the front, both from the center position.

Would an approach similar to the Volvo Hauler set help to get the red railings closer to the original?

Thanks for the thoughts @Thirdwigg One of the issues is that it's a wide V (4 studs at top, as per original), but I guess I could use a 6L liftarm at the front in place of a 3x5 It's an interesting problem, as I'm trying to imagine if the original designers would have wanted a half stud offset if they had had studless available to them - I'm guessing in this case it may still be required due to half stud axle problem still being a thing.

After writing about not using the dedicated hub parts, first instincts are being followed and they are back on the build...They should handle the downwards forces from the pneumatic pump better. Middle bit of the chassis next to the engine is the next bit to work on (some bits are pinned temporarily). The half stud engine output has caused some headaches; the original actually displaced the engine with a half bushing and the clever use of modified plates. Unfortunately the stop on a 5.5l axle lands just at the wrong point above the differential, but a solution closer to the original's drive-train is in sight.

It could be something as simple as lens distortion or post-production correction (although I can't see the issue in the side on image) , if it is actually a photograph and not a render.

This is going to be good! I'd actually forgotten what an absolute beast 8880 was, so glad for the reminder! I also agree that gear box approach that more speeds doesn't always equal more better - the size of the original gearbox is appropriate to the scale of the car (i.e doesn't make up a third of it!) and it has a mechanical legibility that defines this sets character and that is sorely missing from many later supercars.