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About Matty04

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  1. I wanted to include full independent suspension, with positive caster and MacPherson strut in the front and rear trailing arms, a working front-mid placed 90° v8 engine, working steering wheel + HoG, convertible top, openable hood, doors and trunk. From now on I plan to do the convertible top mechanism and I consider it quite a challenge as I would like it to operate as close to the real thing (google it) and I'll keep you updated as the build progresses. I have worked on the chassis for a while now and this is what I came up with: And yes, I plan to change that background, coloured cardboard doesn't really do the trick, I promise this is the last time you'll see it.
  2. Have you considered ditching the 2x32039 and u-joints and just using a thin 1x2 or 1x3 mounted at chassis level in front of the wishbones? Looks like you have enough space without gaining too much toe-in.
  3. Hey there, mate, this might help you: This is one way to make it into a ripsaw, also you might consider maxing it wider and giving up the gearbox in the video.
  4. I also find bodyworks hard to build, but trial and error pretty much works for me. I usually start at the most well known spot of a car e.g.(the McLaren smile, the wedge shaped front for Lamborghini, the "C" in Chiron's doors)
  5. I just found this topic so I built a drift-ish chassis to test different wheels. Please take note that it was built for the 49.5x20 tires, that it has suspension, that it uses L motors and that I only changed the rear wheels as there is no room for any other size for the front wheels. Here are the results, going from worst to best: 68.8x36 (rally car): these barely fit my chassis and couldn't go into a drift. I suspect that they would go into a drift on a bigger chassis, maybe if buggy motors would be used 62.4x20 (arocs): I was able to pull a drift on a very slippery surface and it didn't last long. Maybe on a slightly bigger stiff chassis with no suspension you could have some fun with these. 43.2x22: these pretty much were able to loose traction and if you wouldn't use suspension and you would get all the weight on the front wheels (e.g. race truck) you would be able to do some pretty good drifts. 68.7x34 balloon: i didn't have any hope for these but they actually went into a pretty decent drift, altough the suspension and rear placement of the buwizz (fast mode not ldrcs) made it hard to keep a donut longer than about 2-3 spins as the back would start jumping around. not sure if they would go so well on a bigger chassis. 56x26 balloon: I had a bit of hope for these and they pretty much worked the same as the 68.7x34 balloon. the problem with balloon tires is that if the car rolls too much on one side the side knobs would kick in and make the car jump around. You would normally add suspension but that doesn't quite do the trick as the suspension would bounce around even more. If you have no other alternative go with these, maybe add caster and no suspension and have fun! 49.5x20: Drifts and donuts are totally possible, the suspension rarely makes the car jump, only when tires get to a lower rpm or get into something really grippy/pothole. I hope I've been helpful!
  6. Yup, many guys have voted with less than 10 posts
  7. Hey! I have to say that this is my first lego supercar, as i'm more used to trial trucks and trophy trucks. I worked on this one for about three months and the goal was to get a supercar over 1kg, wich I barely passed. First, some overall pictures of the car. Yea, I know, i've got some pretty bad panel gaps around the rear wheels and the whole back of the car isn't too great but it actually was built for the functions. Moving on to the manual functions the car has: Opening hood revealing the RTC system (locking) Opening butterfly doors Opening engine bay cover (locking) +the whole rear lifting in 2 sections to provide access to the BuWizz (large one is also locking) One huge challenge was to get a curved roof at such a small scale, wich you can see in more detail here: It's also fully suspended, front is independent with MacPherson and rear is pendular. I guess I could've squeezed something independent in the rear too but it was too little space and I was running out of time. Functions powered by BuWizz (wich is located behind the rear axle) Drive with an L motor, working V8 engine Steering with an M motor, working steering wheel Linear 2-speed gearbox integrated in the chassis powered by an M motor Here's a little game: Try to find all the motors in the car. Also, I would like to know what do you think about it.
  8. I would suggest 42029 or 42006, I made lots of MOCs with them and 4 M motors, one receiver, one remote and one big battery box. Edit: if you find the sets at a good price.
  9. That looks and works great! Can you post a close up of the gearbox?
  10. thanks! i finished it. here are some pictures -Images removed- i also got some pictures of the suspension working on a 2 stud and 6 stud tall. You can find them here:
  11. Heh, you thought this was a cancelled project huh? i worked on it for some time now and it's almost done. I just need to do the last designing. Final specs: 2xl's one big BB, 4 small hard springs per side, christie suspension, ground clearance about 7 studs with 6 studs in some places, weight about 1250 grams. well, i do have one little problem : when steering on grippy surfaces the distance between the bases of the tracks simply gets bigger, any ideas on how to solve that?
  12. I decided to use 2 xl motors- one for each track added 2 more springs, probably going to remove one. this is somewhat close to the final lenght of the vehicle